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I have been researching the CRC Intake Valve cleaner. I am trying to figure out a good place to spray the solution that is past the MAP but doesn't involve taking apart too much of the intake system. Unfortunately, I have not found many pictures or videos showing the 3.3l V6 application. I pulled the air filter out last night and it looks like you could run the spray tube into the airbox and past the MAP sensor.

Has anyone tried this (or do you have a better solution)?

Thanks.
 

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Think your talking about the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAS), the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is on the intake manifold. Either way I have been pondering something similar and more radical like adding a permanent 1/8 inch fitting or plug-able port on the intake just after the TB. If your worried about messing up the MAS it just pulls out after removing the 10mm bolt holding it, there is an o-ring on the shaft, no gasket to worry about. Block the opening (make sure nothing gets sucked into the hole). Problem is the further away you get from the actual intake, the more CRC spray will get accumulated or puddled on hoses and rubber material, most will be sucked in with air flow. But some will probably linger till it's evaporated after running a while. I really don't know the effects of the solution on rubber and plastic parts.

Just thinking here... a real long 12 inch plastic/fuel/vacuum line could be snaked in around the MAS to just forward of the TB which may work better, just be double sure the tube does not get sucked in..
 

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Well I deleted my previous post because I just recently did this treatment again and found that the car was still hesitating afterward. Considering @bobdec 's comment, I removed the air intake hose and found a good amount of the CRC cleaner had built up in the small reservoir at the bottom of the hose. So I assume some of that was being sucked in when I was initially accelerating from a stop, which was causing the hesitation. Conclusion: better to remove the intake hose entirely and spray directly at the throttle plate.
 

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when I did this I removed the whole air intake and sprayed it directly into the TB. Make sure you let the car sit for at least an hour and then you go driving it for at least 20 min at highway speeds. the CRC does pool even if you spray it directly into the TB so you will feel hesitation when you are going for a drive afterwards. You might also experience black smoke over the next 48 hours.
 

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Also, I forgot to mention that you might even get a check engine light after the treatment, but it should go off within a few driving cycles.
 

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similar as the 2 replys above this:
- I pulled the intake hose off the throttle body and sprayed it at the throttle plate
- After letting it sit for an hour, then driving 5 miles through the city, as I accelerated onto the highway it suddenly rattled like crazy and got a check engine light. Obviously some pooled CRC decided to break free. 2 DTC code were set. One was "overly lean mixture" & I don't recall the 2nd, but it also made sense under the circumstances. The code & light cleared itself after 2 drives of about 10 miles. When I looked up the logic behind self clearing the engine light it included engine temp, so if you go this route to clear it, let it cool down a bit so it sees a 2nd trip as a separate trip with temp going up through the necessary thresholds.
 

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So spraying directly into the throttle body is the best procedure. On my truck I could pull a vacuum line off the brake booster and spray it in there.
 

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On the 3.3 (V6) there are internal channels in the intake that direct incoming air equally to both banks. If the vacuum port is in a position to insure the CRC hits both banks then it would work. I have a can of CRC on my shelf waiting to be used. I was thinking of adding a port somewhere on the intake system that would give me an alternative to pulling the air intake to the TB. Somehow it's been a lower priority, but I will have to get it done soon.
 
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