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Cerato GT 2019
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19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
OK one and all.

It would seem I'm developing a new problem, I have a 2004 2.5 Carnival that would appear to be developing a leaky head gasket.

It still drives fine but has developed a drinking habit and has just started showing a small amount of emulsion in the top of the oil cap.

Questions is it just a matter of pulling the heads and replacing the gasket?

How much of a pain is it to do?

Is it a common problem and is it indicative of more trouble to come???

Thanks in advance Jeff
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2006 Grand Carnival 3.8L Auto
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9 Posts
Very common with these engines. The issue is to do with the design taken from the old rover engine. The cylinder linings leak as there is not enough pressure exerted on them by the heads. Many people replace the head gaskets and 1 week later the issue comes back again. Have a read of the following threads http://www.kia-forums.com/australia/82119-how-lpg-can-destroy-2-5l.html and http://www.kia-forums.com/australia/79360-replacement-engine-05-carnival-k5-v6.html and http://www.kia-forums.com/kia-carnival-sedona-forum/76886-2004-kia-carnival-ls-cylinder-head.html.
 

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Cerato GT 2019
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19 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I as really hoping that wasn't the case.

I seem to be loosing water but not power?

How likely is the loose head bolt fix?
 

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2006 Grand Carnival 3.8L Auto
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9 Posts
It won't hurt to check the tension but unless there is evidence of a recent rebuild I would say that the bolts are tight. A lot of engines can put up with a little water in the cylinders, the main problem is filling up a cylinder with coolant after you turn off your engine. Water in the oil can also cause lubrication issues eventually siezing the bearings or piston.
 

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KIA's 2000 Carnival, 2008 Magentis, 2005 Optima
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561 Posts
OK one and all.

It would seem I'm developing a new problem, I have a 2004 2.5 Carnival that would appear to be developing a leaky head gasket.

It still drives fine but has developed a drinking habit and has just started showing a small amount of emulsion in the top of the oil cap.

Questions is it just a matter of pulling the heads and replacing the gasket?

How much of a pain is it to do?

Is it a common problem and is it indicative of more trouble to come???

Thanks in advance Jeff
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I have successfully replaced head gaskets in situ on the KV6 motor and it is a possible to do but the rear head is a pain to work on but not impossible to remove and replace.

You need to replace the head bolts as they are single use only.

The factory gasket has an elastometric bead on it that does let go with age and fatigue after time even when the liners are OK and heads are flat.
The most important thing to do is not cook the motor as it will damge the heads and maybe sink the liners.
If the liners are still proud of the block and the heads are flat, not warped and no fire ring wear then change to the MLS gasket.

otherwise use a elastometric gasket and add a small amount of sodium silicate to the coolant to prevent future leaks.

I have one of these engines going over 300,000kms and the only thing that was done was a head gasket change at 160,000kms the trick is not to allow the current gasket to deteriorate to far and end up cooking the motor.

The old stitch in time saves nine is the adage for the KV6 engine.
 

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Cerato GT 2019
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Discussion Starter #6
I have successfully replaced head gaskets in situ on the KV6 motor and it is a possible to do but the rear head is a pain to work on but not impossible to remove and replace.

You need to replace the head bolts as they are single use only.

The factory gasket has an elastometric bead on it that does let go with age and fatigue after time even when the liners are OK and heads are flat.
The most important thing to do is not cook the motor as it will damge the heads and maybe sink the liners.
If the liners are still proud of the block and the heads are flat, not warped and no fire ring wear then change to the MLS gasket.

otherwise use a elastometric gasket and add a small amount of sodium silicate to the coolant to prevent future leaks.

I have one of these engines going over 300,000kms and the only thing that was done was a head gasket change at 160,000kms the trick is not to allow the current gasket to deteriorate to far and end up cooking the motor.

The old stitch in time saves nine is the adage for the KV6 engine.
Thanks for that, for some reason I have a pathalogical fear of working on this thing, it's good to know that it can be done.

I think it's leaking water into the oil as I've got an empty overflow bottle and milky residue in the oil cap.

That said it's not got hot, nor seems to have lost power.
 

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Kia Carnival
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24 Posts
Kia Gaskets

If you search on Congromerate`s earlier posts,there is one he talks of composite gaskets being made in South Australia.He has actually tried them and he had no issues with them.The maker and seller is COPPER GASKETS or COOPER GASKETS.Try googling it will come out.The guy is in Andrews Farm in South Australia.The composite gaskets are better because they reallu press on the liners but Congromerate has warned not to overtighten the bolts because of gasket material being light.I havent tried them myself as I came to know of them after buying the elastometric ones which are still going on very good over 11 000kms now and no issue at all.One thing I have noticed with these engines is, on a hot day if your temperature gauge goes up try turning the air con off as it strains the motor.

Hope it helps
 

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2001 Kia Carnival 2.5L manual & 2000 Carnival Auto
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320 Posts
All good responses.

My only suggestion would be to add some bars leak to the engine coolant as a first "fix"

If that doesn't work, check your head bolt tension.
The exhaust side head bolts - especially on the radiator side head always develop looseness as the aluminium metal creeps.

Failing that, fix the head gasket ASAP.
Because you really do not want little oil passages gummed up with coolant, or vice versa. Engine will likely seize the hydraulic lash adjusters somehow, then your valves will slam into pistons..

It certainly appears you have the classic 2.5L oil in coolant problem from loose/sinking liners.

The composite gaskets now available by custom order, he's changed the design a little bit, (More metal around the fire ring area) you can get a real tight 85 N.m squash with new head bolts gradually tightened up over two days. Go by feel. 65N.m would be minumum bolt tension. Its hard to do the rotate tension method on composite gaskets, they "give" a lot over a period of time.

The elastomeric gaskets do okay, very not forgiving of overheating though. The rubber beads will seperate from the mtal shim and get squirted past on the exhaust side when over pressure at coolant overheat.
Usually, if you have head gasket problems, replacement MLS gaskets not the way to go. They usually are pretty good and don't fail if all other things stay good.
 
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