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Discussion Starter #1
Im assuming it's the purge valve off the intake manifold? I don't have any check engine light, but I ordered this : https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003SOJV3C

I literally have to crank for like 20 seconds give it some gas to keep idle up, then after 30 seconds of driving it seems fine? Any suggestions would be great , (ordered that part since it's only 20$ )
 

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Is the car slow to refuel? I see that the link is for an aftermarket part, I would go with an OEM Kia part myself (in general aftermarket parts can be trouble sometimes). Anyhow, good luck. Hopefully some experts will be along to give you some ideas about diagnostics for this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nah car seems to refill fine... Drives perfectly normal as well.. I'm assuming it has to be the purge valve, that's what I read other places. 20$ worth a shot
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I bought a 20$ part man... Lol. I'll send it back if I need to. How does that deter anyone from giving me a suggestion?
 

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I don't normally post on a thread where the OP supplies so little information. However, you are carrying on a conversation, which is quite a rare thing on these forums. So I'll give it a shot.

Here's some stuff to try (no particular order), but I have no idea how many of these (if any) you've already done. The idea is to do testing to diagnose where the problem actually is, by finding out what changes the pattern you're seeing. Do only one of these things at a time, in order to avoid confusing results.

- Connect a realtime OBD data stream scanner and observe key values (fuel trim, etc.) during the rough
start.

- Test for spark while cranking using a tester, or redneck plug-touching-block for a brief moment.

- Test the injectors with a 'noid light while cranking.

- Turn the key to 'on' a few times before actually trying to start it.

- Before starting, push the pedal to the floor and keep it there as you try to start.

- Experiment with filling up less than a full tank (1/4, 1/2, 3/4 ....)

- Spray a SMALL bit of carb cleaner or sensor-safe starter fluid into the intake before trying to start.

- Remove and examine (at least some of) the spark plugs before trying to start, then do it again after a long cranking episode.

- There are others as well, but first see if anything above helps.

Now let's see if you will eventually post back with the resolution and outcome of this issue. Odds of that happening are probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 200-1 against.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I don't normally post on a thread where the OP supplies so little information. However, you are carrying on a conversation, which is quite a rare thing on these forums. So I'll give it a shot.

Here's some stuff to try (no particular order), but I have no idea how many of these (if any) you've already done. The idea is to do testing to diagnose where the problem actually is, by finding out what changes the pattern you're seeing. Do only one of these things at a time, in order to avoid confusing results.

- Connect a realtime OBD data stream scanner and observe key values (fuel trim, etc.) during the rough
start.

- Test for spark while cranking using a tester, or redneck plug-touching-block for a brief moment.

- Test the injectors with a 'noid light while cranking.

- Turn the key to 'on' a few times before actually trying to start it.

- Before starting, push the pedal to the floor and keep it there as you try to start.

- Experiment with filling up less than a full tank (1/4, 1/2, 3/4 ....)

- Spray a SMALL bit of carb cleaner or sensor-safe starter fluid into the intake before trying to start.

- Remove and examine (at least some of) the spark plugs before trying to start, then do it again after a long cranking episode.

- There are others as well, but first see if anything above helps.

Now let's see if you will eventually post back with the resolution and outcome of this issue. Odds of that happening are probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 200-1 against.
Funny. I actually posted back after my p0016 code THAT majority on this forum claim is timing belt... jumped a tooth... when all it was * was a BAD Oil control valve. 5 min fix.

If the timing belt jumped a tooth the car would not drive FINE. I made a post to that ABOUT IT BEING THE OCV, and for other people with the idle issues but car drives fine to look to the OCV first. (if i was searching the forum for a problem i would want to take the cheapest obvious approach first)

Now back on topic.

I have a 2005 kia spectra with 113k on it. I mentioned the only time the car does not start was after putting gas in it. I then simply asked if any others on here experienced this issue(maybe some reassurance?) Anyways i spent 20$ and got criticized for throwing parts at the car before it was diagnosed.... (20$ ?) I will be changing it by this weekend , and ill assure you if you look at my post history i always reply back to my threads with solutions.


Mark it . My 20$ "GUESS" will be right, but i will make sure you all know when its complete that it solved the issue
 

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Funny. I actually posted back after my p0016 code THAT majority on this forum claim is timing belt... jumped a tooth... when all it was * was a BAD Oil control valve. 5 min fix.

If the timing belt jumped a tooth the car would not drive FINE. I made a post to that ABOUT IT BEING THE OCV, and for other people with the idle issues but car drives fine to look to the OCV first. (if i was searching the forum for a problem i would want to take the cheapest obvious approach first)

Now back on topic.

I have a 2005 kia spectra with 113k on it. I mentioned the only time the car does not start was after putting gas in it. I then simply asked if any others on here experienced this issue(maybe some reassurance?) Anyways i spent 20$ and got criticized for throwing parts at the car before it was diagnosed.... (20$ ?) I will be changing it by this weekend , and ill assure you if you look at my post history i always reply back to my threads with solutions.


Mark it . My 20$ "GUESS" will be right, but i will make sure you all know when its complete that it solved the issue

I have this issue happening on my 2012 Kia Sportage (62K miles). Did replacing the EVAP purge valve fix the problem for you? My dealership can't figure it out (only pending code P0172 is showing) and they want to try replacing the fuel pump...
 
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