[WeAreNotAlone]

Can oil pump be replaced with out removing engine?

2007 Sedona 3.8 V-6


Quick question,

Dealer damaged oil pan during a service (imprint of jack) on oil pan, pressed up by about 1.5 inches rear section of oil pan, about 1 inch forward section.


It appears from parts listings I see online oil pickup is incorporated into the oil pump itself...

Q: Can oil pump be replaced without removing engine? OR at least without a major hassle? - I read somewhere it was like 5.6hrs to replace oil pump.

If not for those of you that have had the oil pan off... how is the pickup positioned?

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TAGS: Kia Sedona 2006-2012
AKA: Kia Carnival
Hyundai Entourage 2007-2008 rebadged Kia Sedona 2rd gen generation
2006, 2007, 2008, 2009 , 2010, 2011, 2012
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kia_Sedona
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyundai_Entourage
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[Spike555]

Why was the dealer using a floor jack when they have a lift?
And why are they not fixing it?

 

[WeAreNotAlone]

Why was the dealer using a floor jack when they have a lift?
And why are they not fixing it?

Spike555,
You work at a dealership, and/or have any first hand knowledge of the questions asked?

Why was the dealership using a jack?

My best guess is damage was done performing TSB on timing chain tensioner(s) replacement done a while back(Old TSB IIRC engine had to come out), or just recently front sub-frame (AKA:Engine cradle) bushings, strut insulator, strut replacement, or steering rack done a while ago.

Regardless, No one except the mfg's "Factory trained" dealership "techs" have ever worked on the car".

Why are they not fixing it?
Long story. (really)
Short version is the Oil pan and a Oil pump has come in... Dealer that has damaged the car won't be performing the repairs.

My question for you is:
1: Can the OIL pump be replaced in-car?
2: Is it a "big" deal? EG: Does the whole front end of the engine have to come off- Or can the pump be replaced once oil pan has been dropped?
3: How many hrs to replace oil pump?

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[Spike555]

No I dont work at a stealership, but I have been in many, they all have lifts.

That makes sense if they were just lifting the engine to perform work, but they did it wrong, you are supposed to use a block of wood to lift the cast aluminum oil pan to distribute the weight evenly, if you dont the pan will break.

I understand your hesitation to have them who screwed it up to fix it, make them pay for repairs at another shop, at the very least they pay for labor.

I have no idea on your question, sorry.

 

[WeAreNotAlone]

No I dont work at a stealership, but I have been in many, they all have lifts.

That makes sense if they were just lifting the engine to perform work, but they did it wrong, you are supposed to use a block of wood to lift the cast aluminum oil pan to distribute the weight evenly, if you dont the pan will break.

I understand your hesitation to have them who screwed it up to fix it, make them pay for repairs at another shop, at the very least they pay for labor.

I have no idea on your question, sorry.

In alot of operations the engine may need to be supported.
(I've done such operations at least a thousand times. On the ground and with car on a lift..).
Principle is the same. Anytime you have to jack up on the engine/trans you use a large thick piece of wood to distribute the load. It's basic tech 101. Guess their "factory techs" missed that "class" that day.

Same dealership broke the windshield 3 yrs ago, about two weeks ago broke windshield AGAIN while replacing the front strut "insulators" (Shock tower mounts) and strut.
(They tried to say it was a rock hit that caused the break- thru a fluke the factory rep for the whole region just happened to be in the office - dealership was not taking responsibility- factory rep said to get a windshield).

How do I know it was not a "rock hit" as service manager stated over the phone?

Simple=
It would be physically impossible for a "rock" to hit area that was damaged.

Cowling at bottom of windshield has to come off to gain access to the strut insulator nuts...
Impact point is UNDER the cowling- cowling shows no signs of being hit.
Nuts they have to remove to get struts out is in same area.

What happened I can bet you is someone got sloppy with their air-impact Zing=Zing- Crack..


They also broke the plastic tabs on the cowling that lock the cowling in place , both sides.

At least I've give them this- they are consistent.

***********************

Why use "that" dealer?
My stepmother loves those guys...uzzled:uzzled:

I'm not the primary driver... just trying to get it straightened out for them before it went out of warranty.

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[Spike555]

I have to assume that is the only dealer within 50,000 miles of you or else you would not go there.

Best of luck to you man.

 

[WeAreNotAlone]

I have to assume that is the only dealer within 50,000 miles of you or else you would not go there.

Best of luck to you man.

RE: I have to assume that is the only dealer within 50,000 miles of you or else you would not go there.

As stated in post right above your latest response, my stepmother loves those guys.

I'm not the primary driver... just trying to get it straightened out for them before it went out of warranty.

Why use "that" dealer?
My stepmother loves those guys...uzzled:uzzled:

(They give them loaner car when car is in for service)

So far as "distance" to the dealer?

Multiple trips to dealer @ 120 miles in mileage.

Then there's the time it takes out of my life.
Each trip takes at least 1/2 of my day to push things thru.

(Unless the customer specifically mentions XYZ problem, the car could be on fire and they wouldn't notice it.)

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[WeAreNotAlone]

So, back to the original question...

Oil pan has been crushed while in possession of the mfg service personnel, or it's associated agents.

Anyone here know how close the oil pickup assembly is in relationship to the oil pan?
Where it is positioned?
How far away from bottom of pan?

(I'm hoping the oil pan is not in contact with the oil pickup assembly -from my research the oil pump and pickup are one piece.)

What is involved replacing the oil pump, in car?

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[GottaCruise]

You should sign up at the kiatechinfo website (see my sig) using Internet Explorer web browser for the signup process -

Signup and access to the site is free & you will be able to view/print the detailed repair procedure for the oil pump..

Located at:

[Service Info] -> SEDONA(VQ) >2007 > G 3.8 DOHC > Engine Mechanical System -> Lubrication System -> Repair Procedures

--
Or PM me and I'll see what I can do to help,

Looking at the repair, you will need

a (new) O-Ring to install with the Oil Pump,

a special service tool SST(09215-3C000) to remove the lower Oil Pan,

a torque wrench to properly torque the Oil Pump, Oil Pump Chain Sprocket, Oil Pump Chain Cover, and Oil Pan bolts ,

liquid sealant TB1217H for the gasket,

and a non-marring gasket scraper to remove any left-over material from the upper mating surface / the block.

--
* Above is taken from the repair procedure at the kiatechinfo website: note I don't own your vehicle, just giving you this info. so you are advised & informed to make a good repair,

GottaCruise

 

[WeAreNotAlone]

You should sign up at the kiatechinfo website (see my sig) using Internet Explorer web browser for the signup process -

Signup and access to the site is free & you will be able to view/print the detailed repair procedure for the oil pump..

Located at:

[Service Info] -> SEDONA(VQ) >2007 > G 3.8 DOHC > Engine Mechanical System -> Lubrication System -> Repair Procedures

--
Or PM me and I'll see what I can do to help,

Looking at the repair, you will need

a (new) O-Ring to install with the Oil Pump,

a special service tool SST(09215-3C000) to remove the lower Oil Pan,

a torque wrench to properly torque the Oil Pump, Oil Pump Chain Sprocket, Oil Pump Chain Cover, and Oil Pan bolts ,

liquid sealant TB1217H for the gasket,

and a non-marring gasket scraper to remove any left-over material from the upper mating surface / the block.

--
* Above is taken from the repair procedure at the kiatechinfo website: note I don't own your vehicle, just giving you this info. so you are advised & informed to make a good repair,

GottaCruise

Thank you sir.

I read somewhere- front end of engine had to come off-something like 5.6hrs labor. Above procedure looks like maybe 1.0 hr total. Appreciate you taking the time to find the above info.

Looks like it can be done in car, it's not going to be a big deal.


Hope the dealer ordered the o-ring!

**********

Guess I'll find out how good their parts department is. EG: When you order oil pump -order o-ring (Maybe pump comes with O-Ring)

No o-ring means another couple days waiting on parts...

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[GottaCruise]

Hopefully the new oil pump comes with it, or the dealership ordered it - but I wouldn't do the repair without the O-Ring either.
--
I dunno about the (amount) of items that need to be removed on the front motor to access the outer oil pump cover, hopefully it's minimal, but in either case would recommend having access to the repair procedure, either through kiatechinfo.com, alldata (dyi), etc.

Hope the repair goes smooth for you.

 

[WeAreNotAlone]

Hopefully the new oil pump comes with it, or the dealership ordered it - but I wouldn't do the repair without the O-Ring either.
--
I dunno about the (amount) of items that need to be removed on the front motor to access the outer oil pump cover, hopefully it's minimal, but in either case would recommend having access to the repair procedure, either through kiatechinfo.com, alldata (dyi), etc.

Hope the repair goes smooth for you.

GottaCruise,
Appreciate you mentioning the Kia Tech website.
Have a laundry list of things to get straight on this car and forgotten all about it. (duh)

Manual doesn't mention removing the timing chain cover, front pulley's etc, and illustration in step 4 shows timing chain cover "intact" so it should be straight forward.

Reviewing page EM-91, EM-93 it appears the only "gotcha" would be the cover for the chain that drives the oil pump. Looks like it's held on by (3) bolts. One of them in one illustration (step 3) it looks like the block might be in the way, step 4 it looks like access to bolts is a straight shot.

PS: Confirmed this morning pump is packaged (gasp!) with a o-ring.

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