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I know that synthetics were developed to increase longevity and are less prone to breaking down. I know that oil can't break down with-out mechanical or chemical interaction. So were would that leave the show car guys if they want to help conserve by getting the most usefulness out of the synthetic oil? When does time take precedence over mileage? Just how far can i trust synthetic oil?
Read this thread on BITOG. 2 years on conventional -- pics - Bob Is The Oil Guy This fellow used conventional for 2 years with no problems and even had an analysis which looks good other then a little extra copper.

I've done 1-2 years on conventional myself in my rarely driven VW bug with no issues. I don't have a problem with a year or more in an engine in good condition. But I believe the one paying the bills makes all the decissions so they should do what makes them happy.
 

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Read this thread on BITOG. 2 years on conventional -- pics - Bob Is The Oil Guy This fellow used conventional for 2 years with no problems and even had an analysis which looks good other then a little extra copper.

I've done 1-2 years on conventional myself in my rarely driven VW bug with no issues. I don't have a problem with a year or more in an engine in good condition. But I believe the one paying the bills makes all the decissions so they should do what makes them happy.

Still crazy with high hp motors that work extreamly hard. That vw has what 60 hp? For myself and my 300ponies and mrvettes vette 450hp monster, I wouldnt dare.
its a lot to lose $$ wise at least with us too. especially since an oil change costs just 30-40.
 

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Still crazy with high hp motors that work extreamly hard. That vw has what 60 hp? For myself and my 300ponies and mrvettes vette 450hp monster, I wouldnt dare.
its a lot to lose $$ wise at least with us too. especially since an oil change costs just 30-40.
If that is your feeling that's just fine with me. Only do what makes you comfortable is all I am saying. But do you have to change your oil at 3 months? No, but I'm not paying your bills so change it when you like. :cool:
 

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umm oil companies say tio change it for a reason. They have tested it for a lot of years. I think they know there oil better than anyone. I mean think about it. You can t say its to get you to buy more, cause when prices for oil were still cheap they still recommended it.
 

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I went back a little bit to see when this simple post about synthetic oil, oil groups and general oil infromation and turned into a thread about when you need to change oil.

I've never said you do not need to ever change your oil, if you want to have that discussion I can point you in the right direction. I do feel it needs to be changed its just when does it need to be changed and for every car and driver that is where it will differ. Some hondas can easily go 10k miles on conventional oil right off the lot and some cars/brands can barely make it 3. That is why I don't feel a blanket statement of any length or time is appropriate for all.

You have heard of OLM's? Oil Life Monitors its all the rage these days with car manufaturers and thus far they seem to be fairly accurate. The PCM process's all the sensor data along with run time and comes up with a percentage of oil life remaining. You simply have it changed when the OLM indicates a change is required. Some GM trucks average 8-9k miles and there is no warranty issue since its a GM engineered system.

Again I say if you feel most comfortable with a 3k mile change interval then stick with that and the oil of your choice. If you really want to do a search on the web for "3k mile oil change" or "oil change myth" and decide for yourself what is appropriate for you then by all means do. I make my own decission and have now worked my way up to over 10k miles on my current oil and counting. Am I worried about if the engine goes boom and its not covered? Not particularly since I am nearly at an end of the B-B portion of the warranty and I can buy an engine for $650-800 current listing price. If your not good with tools worry more but I won't lose any sleep. Europe has far longer change intervals then the U.S. and oddly the same oil companies supply oil to both markets.
 

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Too too funny all of this.

2004 Sorento LX 2wd 3.5L V6 got put on the following sched below. And every car for the last 15-20 (have had 32 as of now) cars has been similar too outside the oil weights vary by needed in manual or manufacturers recomendations.

1000 filter and dino. 4500 filter and dino. @8000 5w20 Full Synth fill and filter. Then 3-4/3500-4000 filter and top ups. 12+-/12,500-15,000 dump and filter and refill from time of fill. Not problem one form day one ever. Many vechs had valve cover/s opened to replace gasket/s and all engs could be eaten off of inside. And yearly dumps were never lumpy/clumpy or black(slight darker tint on some vechs oil was seen) or watery. And have used many brands oil too over the years. Mobil/Pennzoil/Castrol/Quakerstate/Wal-Mart.

Right now Mobil 1 Full Synth 5w20 is $6.98qt in Wal-mart and Wal-mart Supertech Full Synth 5w20 is $3.98qt.

Mobil 1 5qt jug is $23.98
SuperTech 5qt jug is $14.95

Dealer OEM 26300-35503 filter is $8.98 ea 1-100 filters
Ebay OEM 26300-35503 shipped to house $5.99 ea box of six.

Do the math.

Too too funny all of this.


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I think EVERY-ONE missed my question.
Since this Vette is a show car i probably will put less than 1000miles on it in 2 years. Thuss it is obvious that i will not make it to the 3-5k mile oil change recomendation. Given all of that, What is the maximum amount of TIME i should look at for an honest need to change oil? How long before it actually does start to break down when it is seldom used? Since synthetics are made to last longer then doesn't that mean that it will still be good for a couple of years with less than 1K miles?
It seems that the old 6month interval is being dropped, even on regular oil, in favor of exact milage for change more and more by producers and manufacturers alike. I do change the oil in my 2 street cars about once a year and they are usually at 4-5K when i do. They have never shown any problems from this. But even after 2 years and about 1K miles on the Vette, the last oil change looked almost new. It is hard to read the level since it is almost clear on the dip stick...Does that oil truely need changed?:confused:
 

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I am from the old school of "Running the engine for short intervals is bad. Getting them up to operating temps is good." The reason you get the oil up to op temp is to boil the water and gasoline that condense and leak into the oil. As long as you do that and don't abuse the oil it should be ok. I would pay for the oil analysis after 3 months to be sure and then 6 months to check again. Once you have the pattern then change as indicated. This should apply to synthetic as well as dino oil. You can trust synthetic and dino oil to do the job they are designed and blended for. There has been allot of good info in this thread. This is just my .02 worth.

:clap:
 

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Some of you people can´t just understand that we don´t all live in the same place as you do. neither we don´t all drive with gasoline powered vehicles (I can´t even understand why people don´t drive diesel powered car´s as they are more fuel efficient and greener. Also more powerful) :mad:

I can´t even think of using anything except 0W-40 with good additives during wintertimes here in Finland. Mostly Mobil 1 Arctic or New Life.

I feel sorry for those engines that are oiled with semi-synthetics and cranked on during -30 celsius degrees ( thats -22F for you imperialists). It doesn´t sound good, it doesn´t look good and it even doesn´t smell good. Unless you like lot´s of smoke and thunder (or smoke and whimper in case of old motor).
 

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Some of the C**P I have seen come out of some diesel exhaust pipes makes me question your statement that "diesels are greener". I will grant you that some diesels get better mileage but I still have a hard time with the exhaust picture. No, I don't want a history or mechanical lesson on the diesel. I am a gasoline person. To old to be taught a new trick. I still stand behind my post.
Use the correct weight oil for your car, don't exceed the oils life (Determined through OA), and change it accordingly and you won't have any problems from it's use. Dino or synthetic. Oh by the way welcome to the forum.
 

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all oil breaks down and i dont care which brand u use..changeing it faithfully will save you time and $ in the long run...i have 130,000 on my kia spectra gsx 5-speed and it runs fine...kia recomends 7500 on an oil change...lately i have not put 2 many miles on so i have been changeing it twice a year and i put on 5,000 miles...i guess that works for me..personally 5500 is a good # to go with...why wait till 7500 or longer? i use 2 let the dealer do it but after the warranty ran out i started changeing it my self..i baby my kia and it runs and looks good...
 

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Not a very informative thread we have here. I'm sure that the OP has a wealth of knowledge, but it doesn't come across too easily. The only valid point that comes through is that you have to fit you oil change regime to the climatic conditions and severity of driving.

Why not choose your brand of oil, use the recommended grade, and change it at the recommended intervals? Halve the interval for severe conditions. Works for most people.

I've never had an oil-related problem. For over 45 years, I've mostly left it to the dealer or local mechanic, sometimes supplying the oil myself. It's mostly been something like Castrol GTX 15W-40 every 5,000 to 10,000 km or 12 months whichever comes first. The newer cars are getting 10W-30 @ 12 months
 

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I personally run Mobil 1 exclusively with a Mobile 1 high capacity filter, and wouldn't waste my money changing it every 3,000 miles. Today's oils are much different than they were when the 3,000 mile oil change routine began. This is evident when you look at cars equipped with oil health monitors that far exceed 3,000 miles before a change, and these are based on conventional oils. A lot of engineering went into these systems, and there is no way a manufacturer would extend intervals out unsafely when they have to cover warranty repairs and lose money on more frequent services. I do believe in using high capacity filters for extended service intervals however. It seems very hard for some people to get over the old 3,000 mile service even though it has been repeatedly well documented that it just doesn't hold water anymore. I would agree with severe service on conventional oil that the 3,000 mile service isn't a bad idea, although my idea of severe service may differ from others on this thread. What it comes down to is people will service their vehicles at intervals that make them feel good if they need it or not.
 

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KIA Australia's recommendation for the Cerato is 15,000km or 12 months, using conventional oil. Our usage is certainly not severe (80% highway, 20% suburban), so I'm comfortable with that. I tend to think that a lot of people worry too much about oil.

Our other cars get oil-changed every 6 months while under warranty, then 12 months once out of warranty. I've always stuck to Castrol oils, and top-up (seldom required) with the appropriate grade. I've used Castrol Edge (Synthetic) in my more expensive cars, although it's probably somewhat wasted if I only do 5,000 to 10,000 between services; the last lot looked almost "as new" when changed at 5000km.
 

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I personally run Mobil 1 exclusively with a Mobile 1 high capacity filter, and wouldn't waste my money changing it every 3,000 miles. Today's oils are much different than they were when the 3,000 mile oil change routine began. This is evident when you look at cars equipped with oil health monitors that far exceed 3,000 miles before a change, and these are based on conventional oils. A lot of engineering went into these systems, and there is no way a manufacturer would extend intervals out unsafely when they have to cover warranty repairs and lose money on more frequent services. I do believe in using high capacity filters for extended service intervals however. It seems very hard for some people to get over the old 3,000 mile service even though it has been repeatedly well documented that it just doesn't hold water anymore. I would agree with severe service on conventional oil that the 3,000 mile service isn't a bad idea, although my idea of severe service may differ from others on this thread. What it comes down to is people will service their vehicles at intervals that make them feel good if they need it or not.


Umm no it has not. Dino oil is just that, dino oil and has not changed very much or at all. Your syn. has changed or even wasn't widespread back when as you say.
Anyone can change it when they like, but if you go 7500miles and your dealer believes your climate, ect should use severe, then don't go complaining when you get an oil related issue, when you should have been changing it every 3k miles.

Its a matter or who you are, who your dealer is, do you know them personally. To be safe, just ask your service manager what you should use, document it. Then you can bicker with him if yoiu think you shouldn't use severe. See if you win that one. Remember, he could be your friend or foe when it comes time to get warranty work. Don't go by what we are saying here, every occurance is different.
 

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Umm no it has not. Dino oil is just that, dino oil and has not changed very much or at all. Your syn. has changed or even wasn't widespread back when as you say.
Anyone can change it when they like, but if you go 7500miles and your dealer believes your climate, ect should use severe, then don't go complaining when you get an oil related issue, when you should have been changing it every 3k miles.

Its a matter or who you are, who your dealer is, do you know them personally. To be safe, just ask your service manager what you should use, document it. Then you can bicker with him if yoiu think you shouldn't use severe. See if you win that one. Remember, he could be your friend or foe when it comes time to get warranty work. Don't go by what we are saying here, every occurance is different.
Actually it has. Do you really think the oil you put in your car now is the same as what was used in the 60's and 70's? No. Both dino and synthetic contain additives that did not exist years ago. You seem to think they just pump dino oil out of the ground, refine it, and throw it in a bottle. This isn't the case. Energy conserving oil is a good example (dino oil). It has additives such as moly that make it extremely slick and therefore can't be used in some wet clutch setups, most actually. Scientists tried for years to put moly into oil but were unsuccessful for a long time until they found a way to keep it suspended in oil without settling out (moly=an additive that wasn't available years ago). But all have additives, dino or synthetic. I'm not going to spend hours on this forum trying to convince you of facts that you refuse to accept. You believe what you like and do what you like, I really don't care. I will pose one question for you though. Some auto manufacturers don't specify service intervals, they have you refer to the oil health monitor (based on dino oil btw). These can reach in excess of 8,000 miles before needing changed and have taken a lot of years and research to design. This being the case, have these manufacturers lost there mind or is it possible they simply no more than you do?
 

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This argument will just go on and on. We all know there is so much "opposing" sides to this subject, and tons of info on the net to learn what you believe.

I personally stay away from anything that advertises this additive will do this or make this last longer, you know the "sales pitches" to make things seem all that much "better". BUT is it really?

Its easy enough and not at a even semi big cost to just change it. Thats just my opinion.

With the additives, its kinda like the gasses on the market, like Mobil super, with get this "cleaning additives" in it to keep your motor always clean. Crock of YOu know what if you ask me, it won't keep your engine any cleaner than funning your regular/.

You can "stop" changing your oil, but no matter what anyone says, anywhere, unless the guys holding my warranty say its ok, Ill change it when they ask it to be done and not risk my 20K dollar investment to a simple 15 dollar oil change.
 

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This argument will just go on and on. We all know there is so much "opposing" sides to this subject, and tons of info on the net to learn what you believe.

I personally stay away from anything that advertises this additive will do this or make this last longer, you know the "sales pitches" to make things seem all that much "better". BUT is it really?

Its easy enough and not at a even semi big cost to just change it. Thats just my opinion.

With the additives, its kinda like the gasses on the market, like Mobil super, with get this "cleaning additives" in it to keep your motor always clean. Crock of YOu know what if you ask me, it won't keep your engine any cleaner than funning your regular/.

You can "stop" changing your oil, but no matter what anyone says, anywhere, unless the guys holding my warranty say its ok, Ill change it when they ask it to be done and not risk my 20K dollar investment to a simple 15 dollar oil change.
The additives I was speaking of wasn't the off the shelf slick 50 or any other such type product. I will agree with you that these are mostly bs if not all. I was speaking in regards to additives developed and used in the formulation of the oils themselves. Moly is added to some oils right out of the bottle. I do agree with you that you shouldn't do anything to void your warranty, however the fact that vehicles are exceeding 8,500 miles using the oil health monitor just proves what I've been trying to get across. 3,000 mile intervals and oils have changed. Also, of course, engines are running much cleaner than the past too. Following the monitor keeps your vehicle in warranty with these manufacturers. As far as fuel goes I will agree with you on that as well. It's mostly marketing garbage. Btw, I'm assuming you didn't actually read the article I posted past the title as the content was really about the frequency of oil changes, not "stopping" it all together. I'd also be interested in reading an article of your choosing that supports the 3,000 mile interval in todays times.
 

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No article needed. My dealer states I need it done, every 3K miles. Since the severe schedule is met by my driving habits, and where I live.
Well I could change it when I want, but if I want to keep my car under warranty for the next 20K miles, it needs changing every 3K unless changes are done to where I live and how I drive.

Im not going to say they are wrong or right, but it is what the manual states. Its right there 7500 under normal scheduale and every 3k if severe,. Well maybe i could fight it or argue, but who has the time and money to screw with that nonesense.

Cant argue with the manufacurer or their manual. Its right there in black and white print.
 
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