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Discussion Starter #1
Is there any other reason why the oil gets into radiator or viceversa beside a head blown gasket?....I read something about transsmition but my kia sportage 2000 is stick trans and what I read about a pump dumping the oil into radiator it happens with automatic trans unless someone knows different....I do ask before getting with the whole deal of replacing the head gasket...I am doing this myself and so far i will have to remove the timing belt and injector(big pice on the left side of engine...I will definitly going to ask lots of questions about the process)...please help!!!!!...
 

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Recommend searching the forum for info on performing:

Cylinder Compression Test,
** Cylinder Leak-down Test,
Coolant (Radiator) pressure Test,

to -confirm- a Head gasket issue before tearing down..

--
If it is obvious there is engine oil in the coolant, or vs. versa, you can probably (omit) the Coolant pressure test..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
A month ago I found water in the oil and oil in the radiator big time...I was lucky cause It was by the time I changed oil so car got parked and I got that blue devil thing wich sealed for a week and then again..water in the oil and oil in the radiator...before the blue devil liquid I cleaned everthing...flush radiator,replaced oil etc...Check engine goes on before leak happens....well today I open the engine....my wondering about transsmition leaking oil into radiator is just to make sure but my understanding about is that is a difrent oil(looks diferent in texture once mixed) than engine oil plus water wich looks like a shake dark mustard color....

Now....I love this car and i dont mind doing the job and take the time to do it..I have to say this site is so helpfull that I hope God returns a bit to u all for making it easier....
 

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02 Sportage 4x4...66 Shelby GT350...70 Mercury Cyclone Spoiler
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If you have a manual transmission, then you won't get tranny fluid in the radiator. You were correct initially, that it could happen with an automatic transmission via the transmission cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks a lot...that answer my question...now i just have to remove the timing belt and ready to remove the big screws...now i need to now
1. How to release timing belt and if the marks have to be align while removing the belt.
2. Do i need to buy new screws or can I use old ones?
3.should I use some silicone or anything with the new gasket?any recomendations
4.the order that screws have to be removed and the order the have to be installed.
5 torq recomendations....
 

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Caribou, Otter, Buffalo
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Before you arbitrarily tear things apart, there are some mechanics you need to understand..

The "Screws" you refer to are
Cam cap bolts, and
Head bolts..

The cam bolts may be reused, but the caps "MUST" be indexed and reinstalled in the same location and orientation, (the cam journals were line bored to fit the cam)..

The head bolts are stress torqued and have been subjected to many heat cycles, REPLACE them.

Obtain a shop manual and it will have the unbolt sequence and required torques..
You will also find the reassembly sequence and torque specs. failure to properly dissemble/assemble may twist/warp the head, and /or distort the journal caps.
DO NOT use the Chilton/Haynes rags....:confused:

Use plastic scrapers/solvent to clean the head/deck mating surfaces, not metal and no mechanical wire brushes. :eek:

While you have the engine open, inspect the CRANK snout for condition.....

Get a good quality '/#TORQUE click wrench (verified), you may find the addition of an "/# useful....

Depending on your follow-up report, more info may be issued......Philip
 

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1998 Kia Sportage 2.0L DOHC 4x4 Auto.... 1998 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0L SOHC 4x4 Auto.
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Those "big screws" are always fun, especially if you have had an over heat or 2 with your dodgey head gasket.

Don't use sealent on head gaskets...;)

Remove the head bolts in a spiral pattern starting from the ends.
Install the new head bolts in a spiral pattern starting from the center.

Torque the new head bolts to 26 ft-lb, then 90°, then 90° again, following the torque pattern (spiral) each time.

I use a finishing sander with the finest grit sand paper I can find to clean up mating surfaces on the head and block but I might get roasted by other members for mentioning that. Attach a vacuum to the sander and use compressed air to blow the dust away good after you fininsh and don't press to hard.

After you have completed this job you will feel the difference in compression underfoot, enjoy...;)
 

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A finishing sander................Here's your roasting! Friends use the utmost caution using, as you seem to know that it can easily cause a uneven sealing surface. I do like the attached vacuum idea! Do you also weld with a car batteries and jumper cables? Happy Motoring!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Found 2 washers missing from bolts as well as two bolts covered with oil...looks like the car had this job done before cause the kind of gasket(feltpro)...the old feels greasy and sort of wet...i can not define the spot of the leak...also the sections from the gasket with orange color seals are cracked and loose(maybe cause the pressure?)...
I have cleaned the block and head with degreaser and i have removed everything but the shadow mark from the old one...it feel really smooth however i can see the dark spots from the old one..kind of shades....there was a deposit by cilinder4 around the gasket ring that was really hard to clean but itis done...now I need to buy the missing washers and I am wondering if this new gasket(felpro) needs to be retorqued a second time?....

finally I would like to confirm that the end of torq is going to b 64 ft-pd...i got Your recommendation sportage1039 how to start...not really with the sander deal....any comments before please feel free to do so.....it has been greatly apreciated all your opinions..and if you want to share a bit more it will b great!!!!!
 

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1998 Kia Sportage 2.0L DOHC 4x4 Auto.... 1998 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0L SOHC 4x4 Auto.
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I don't seem to get email nofication when new posts are posted on threads, I'll have to look into it.

64ft lbs seems low to me for head bolts. I like to go 26ft lbs to get everything snug, even and aligned then tighten them all 90 degrees, then tighten them all 90 degrees again. This should be over 100ft lbs.

So how did you go with your head gasket replacement anyway? Is it running good again?
 

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Hi, Aquanaut, Excuse me for being an butinski but I think you can help me. I'm in the middle of a timing belt replacement. Just for the heck of it, I removed the cam shafts and CAM caps also. I removed the caps but did not pay attention where they go back. Also some of the caps you can press on the bottom and they will "click",noticing small holes on the caps side I think the clicking is an oiler for the caps. What about the ones that dont click? Just to make sure we are talking about the same part. it looks like a minature piston and is operated by the cam shaft.
Thank you for any suggestions, Dennis
 

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Caribou, Otter, Buffalo
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Hi, Aquanaut, Excuse me for being an butinski but I think you can help me. I'm in the middle of a timing belt replacement. Just for the heck of it, I removed the cam shafts and CAM caps also. I removed the caps but did not pay attention where they go back. Also some of the caps you can press on the bottom and they will "click",noticing small holes on the caps side I think the clicking is an oiler for the caps. What about the ones that dont click? Just to make sure we are talking about the same part. it looks like a minature piston and is operated by the cam shaft.
Thank you for any suggestions, Dennis
Hi, It is imperative that the caps return to their original positions, the cam bearing surface is line bored, so some caps may not seat properly (as you have indicated). The piston you speak of may be the hydraulic lifter (not sure by your description). These also MUST remain in the original bores and orientation.(they wear to fit the cam lobe)..

When you are satisfied that all the pieces are in the correct position, use a good calibrated click torque wrench and secure the caps in the prescribed sequence and torque to spec..... Philip
 
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