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2001 Kia Sephia
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2001 Kia Sephia.

The air blower motor will not power on. I have checked the fuse(s) and relay(s) and I have replaced the blower motor resistor and the blower motor itself.

This leads me to believe it must be a wiring problem.

Can anyone give me any advice? :(
 

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2001 Kia Sephia
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Discussion Starter #3
The fan doesn't seem to be receiving any electricity to start spinning when I engage any level of blower speed with the knob. I didn't test it with a multimeter, just the fact that it's not turning on. Typically, if it was getting power, it would start spinning.
 

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2011 Forte SX 2.4L (thankfully MPI) A/T 144K miles
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.... I didn't test it with a multimeter ...
And that is exactly what you need to do, because it could just as easily be a problem with the ground leg. Once you identify which side is bad, then continue to use the meter, until you find out what the issue is. The switch (which is on the ground leg) would be a likely suspect, but that's just a guess, and you shouldn't hang on (more) parts based on guesswork.
 

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1985 Subaru Loyale (wagon), 2000 Kia Sephia (sedan), and 1969 Mercury Comet (coupé)
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2001 Kia Sephia
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Please check this thread, especially from page two, post number fourteen:

~► https://www.kia-forums.com/2g-1998-2001-sephia/282409-relay-fuse-box-dissection-repairing-electrical-2.html

You'll find your answers, there.

Kind Regards.


Hello!

Thanks for the great write-up you made.

I removed the fuse & relay box completely and disconnected the four wiring harnesses to inspect them.

I found nothing wrong with the wires. :(

I also used a multimeter and tested the wiring harnesses inside the car under the dash for the blower and the resistor...

When I turn the A/C switch from "OFF" to any level, it actually does show voltage at the blower motor wiring harness. It shows 8 volts.... not 12 volts.
 

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1985 Subaru Loyale (wagon), 2000 Kia Sephia (sedan), and 1969 Mercury Comet (coupé)
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... Thanks for the great write-up you made ...
You're Welcome!


... I found nothing wrong with the wires. :( ...
Yes, there is nothing wrong with the wires, as the burnt out occurs at the mere spade connector, inside the Relay & Fuse Box. I wrote it and shown photos on the writeup; so despite that everything seems to be alright, there is not enough power runnin' on the wire affected.

Also, if your Blower motor doesn't run at all, despite of having some voltage coming, there is a chance that there mere blower motor is wrong; so I kindly suggest you to Test the motor, properly.

Kind Regards.
 

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2001 Kia Sephia
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Discussion Starter #8
You're Welcome!




Yes, there is nothing wrong with the wires, as the burnt out occurs at the mere spade connector, inside the Relay & Fuse Box. I wrote it and shown photos on the writeup; so despite that everything seems to be alright, there is not enough power runnin' on the wire affected.

Also, if your Blower motor doesn't run at all, despite of having some voltage coming, there is a chance that there mere blower motor is wrong; so I kindly suggest you to Test the motor, properly.

Kind Regards.

Hello again my friend!

I remember seeing in your post about the copper wires inside, etc., that will get damaged, and everything looks okay, but it still needs to be replaced. I have thought about this.

Can I have your opinion?

After taking out the fuse & relay box completely and inspecting everything, I put everything back the way it came.

However, now the car does not make a "ding/chime" sound when I turn the ignition on. Is there a fuse or relay that affects the "ding/chime" sound? Did I mess something up?

---

Also, like I said, I tested with a multimeter and, if the engine is running, the blower motor wiring harness shows 0V if the A/C switch is "OFF", and it shows ~9.5V if the A/C switch is levels 1-4.

Is 9.5V enough to turn on the blower motor? At least it should spin slowly, right?

Well, it's not spinning at all!

I even put a brand new blower motor in.
 

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2001 Kia Sephia
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
My friend!!!

It's so hot out here in Florida, but I went outside again and took the fuse & relay box out again.

Guess what???

I found a burnt pin, and it looks like the blower pin!

Here are some pictures:


 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hello! Can you please make sure I am doing this correctly?

Wire # 1: Ignition signal wire


Wire # 2: Power input from "B+" line
 

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1985 Subaru Loyale (wagon), 2000 Kia Sephia (sedan), and 1969 Mercury Comet (coupé)
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...Guess what???

I found a burnt pin, and it looks like the blower pin!...



...
Exactly, that's what I was writing about.

All these Kias suffer from this, a mix of bad plastics with too much rosin; plus thin wires and thin spade connectors; which gets pretty hot under load... Many of these kias went to scrap yards due to to this hard-to-diagnose electrical fails; sadly.
 

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You're doing it Wrong! :0

Hello! Can you please make sure I am doing this correctly? ...
Let me see:

...

Wire # 1: Ignition signal wire

...
No, this is Wrong.

The idea is to bypass the Box and install a Relay Outside the Box, so you cut the wires going to the Box (where the original wire and spade pin connector are melted) and weld a Plug for a Relay; which will be placed Outside the Box.

Also, it is not to "Take a Random Wire from the Box" No. It is Test random wires until you find out which one gets electricity with the ignition key only, as it will be used as the positive for the Signal to let the relay switch ON, got it?

Don't weld together three wires... that's wrong. :blink:

I kindly suggest you to learn how a relay works First, then try to install one.

This could be Dangerous if you don't know what are you doing; in that case, ask for professional help.

Remember: You're doing this repairs at your own risk.



...

Wire # 2: Power input from "B+" line
The empty spaces are there for wiring optional equipment, such like Fog lights, Power Sunroof, ABS system, etc...

Kind Regards.
 

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Please be careful. Re-read the writeup (or search elsewhere) to learn How a Relay works, first.

Kind Regards.
 

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2001 Kia Sephia
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Discussion Starter #15
Wire # 1: Ignition signal wire
For the signal wire.... when I test the wires and find a wire that gets electricity when the ignition is on, don't I have to tap into it? That's what I am doing in this picture.



You put a circle around the wires that will work in your post. I did not mean completely "random". I picked one from inside your circle. Is that okay?



-------------

Wire # 2: Power input from "B+" line
Does the harness I added connect with the fuse directly above it?

That is how I imagine it... but I am not so sure.

Here is a picture to show what I mean:



 

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Seems like you're in the right path.

Follow the steps written, to place the wires at the proper spade connectors in the Relay.

Be Careful. Kind Regards.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hi! I'm sorry but I still need help and you're my best hope!!! Thanks again.

Fused, permanent Power, for relay's input = pin # 30 (+) - How do I add a fuse for the wiring harness I added from the junkyard in the B+ line?

► The Blower's wire, for the relay's output = pin # 87 (+) - This is the red wire that was snipped from the wiring harness because it was burnt. I can just solder this wire and the relay's output wire together, right?

► The Signal wire, that comes on with ignition, # 86 (+) - We are using this wire as an On/Off switch, controlled by the ignition. The relay's signal wire must be soldered to WHAT exactly?

Loyale please understand that this is the part I am struggling with. Can you please elaborate?


► The Ground wire, to be connected at pin # 85 (-) - I can just solder the relay's ground wire to a ground wire mounted to the vehicle's chassis.
 

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Appreciated MistahYebba,

I see that you quoted my text in your post above, and all your answers to your questions, are already on that thread, and also on this one; you only need to...

FIRST: Understand how a relay works:

...
I kindly suggest you to learn how a relay works First, then try to install one.

This could be Dangerous if you don't know what are you doing; in that case, ask for professional help.

Remember: You're doing this repairs at your own risk
...

and

THEN you'll understand all the steps written by me, the ones that you quoted.

I can not elaborate further, as it will be only repeating all what I already wrote, again.

Kind regards.
 

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Reading & Understanding

However, I'll try to simplify things for you, as long as I can:

Think about a Relay, as a remote control Switch.

Power comes from the Battery of the Car (+) to pin Nº 30 on the Relay, and then goes to power the Device, from pin Nº 87 on the Relay.

If the Relay is On, Power will go directly from Pin Nº 30 to pin Nº 87, as if the Relay is only a bridge between the Battery and the Device to be Powered, so the Device gets power.

If the Relay is Off, no power is going out the Pin Nº 87 and the Device is gets No power.

What do the Switching, On and Off inside the Relay, is an electromagnet, that moves and makes contact between 30 and 87.

To make that Swtiching, you'll need to send power Plus (+) and Ground (-) to pins Nº 85 and Nº 86, in either way.

So, you shall connect the Relay this way:

► Pin Nº 30 (power Input) to a fused source of Power (+) from the B+ at the Fuse & Relay Box.

► Pin Nº 87 (power Output) to the wire that Powers the Device.

► Pin Nº 85 (Ground) to a screw on the car's metal body.

► Pin Nº 86 (switching Signal +) to the Wire that gets power with ignition key on.

The idea is to avoid the Device, to get power and keep running when you switch your car's engine off; otherwise your Device (in this case, the Blower) could be running after you shut off the car and leave it... and thus will drain your car's Battery...

I hope that you understand this now.

Kind Regards.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hello Loyale!

Thanks again so much for all of your help. I am almost done fixing this Kia!

I wired up the relay, however, the relay did not switch to deliver power to the blower.

I connected the four wires:

► Pin Nº 30 (power Input) to a fused source of Power (+) from the B+ at the Fuse & Relay Box.
► Pin Nº 87 (power Output) to the wire that Powers the Device.
► Pin Nº 85 (Ground) to a screw on the car's metal body.
► Pin Nº 86 (switching Signal +) to the Wire that gets power with ignition key on.

---

I know I did it all properly, however, the relay still did not kick on.

I tested the voltage at the relay SOCKET and the voltage is correct....
12V @ Pin 30 (Input)
12V @ Pin 86 (Signal) (When the ignition is "On")
0V @ Pin 85 (Ground)
0V @ Pin 87 (Output) (Not switching)

For some reason, the 12V is not transferring from Pin 30 (Input) to Pin 87 (Output) of the relay.

As a test, I connected fused 12V power input wire directly to power output wire to the blower, and the blower worked flawlessly.

However, I know it is safer to use the relay.
 
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