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Cerato S Hatch Auto
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Blower speed is controlled by a series of resistors or a tapped wire-wound resistor. Some of your resistor circuits are blown.
 

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2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
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Answer to same problem that was pm'd to me..
For all to see...
There is NO Blower dropping resistor for this year/model of Optima..

The 03 Optima 2.7L uses two different ways to run the HVAC blower motor.

The first is by using a transistor for the three lowest speeds. The transistor is driven by a PWM (pulse width modulator) in a similar design to the dimmers used in your home.
With collector tied to the negative side of the blower motor and the emitter tied to ground...

The second method is by using a relay to short across the collector to emitter connections (junctions) on the transistor.

Your problem is with the relay and/or it's control circuitry and NOT the transistor...

I have attached a link to two documents on my GOOGLE drive for you to examine..

Both came from kiatechinfo.com and remain their property.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-YuNuTyh57XTXZwSmcyVWNJcEU/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-YuNuTyh57XQUVsQjZBZW1pelU/edit?usp=sharing
Dave
 

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Wry Cuda...
Don't get me started on "global warming", and "energy saving".
YEP they are lowercase... and should be...
Look up "Al Gore" with "carbon credits", and his monetary value before and after..
The UN also just found out the earth was warming up BECAUSE of the current temp of the sun...WE DID THAT TOO! Smirk!
If "Mother Nature" doesn't like us "She'll" get rid of us...
SMILE!
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the info davespectra, would you say that since the resistor controls 1,2,3 and the 4 or hi setting is bypassed around the resistor to get the full 12 volts, that being that my blower works only on settings 1 and 2 that the problem must be with the high speed relay, i believe its called.I think that this controls the 3 and 4 speeds off of the control knob. If that is your belief also,could you direct me as to its location and appearance.Once again thanks
 

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Do you have the "automatic " (climate control vesion) HVAC system or the basic one?
There is NO resistor in the "automatic" version in it's place is a transistor... The "speed control" circuitry controls 1,2,3 and the relay just bypasses (shorts across) the transistor for full +12v supply for #4.

That said..

If the speed does not work on #3 it is either
1 the speed selector switch
2 the speed selector switch socket (if equipped)
3 the HVAC control module
4 "if" equipped with resistor (not shown on kiatechinfo.com) the resistor is bad
The transistor CAN'T be bad on setting 3 and OK on 1&2. so..it's OK
The relay is also OK.
There could be two versions of the HVAC, one climate control, one basic electrical (with resistor) although KIA shows only the first (climate control) on their site for the 2.7L
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I believe,even though my vehicle is a lx version I have the basic ac version,my resistor has a heat sink attached to it ,so unless the transistor version also has a heat sink attached,my issue must be the resistor.Its kinda strange, in the week leading up tp the partial failure of the blower speeds,when I turned the heat to high,there seemed to be a clicking noise between the blower and the center console until the blower kicked in ,usually with a few seconds.and that can't be the relay since it's located on the other side of the blower,I'll try and replace the resistor and see.thanks
 

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BTW the transistor DOES have a heatsink attached to it but it won't look like a resistor...
Dave
 

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Because the resistor did not "cure" the problem...pull out the speed control switch and examine it and the plug that connects to it... The blower motor drawa a lot of current and a little corrosion will cause the plug to heat up and melt..A pretty common problem with all makes of cars... Still the RELAY is NOT the problem.
Dave
 

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Cerato S Hatch Auto
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Wry Cuda...
Don't get me started on "global warming", and "energy saving".
YEP they are lowercase... and should be...
Dave
My comments on energy saving were very much "tongue in cheek". i.e. Any energy saved by the blower motor using electronics is negligible; maybe less than the energy spent in developing and manufacturing the electronics.

So-called global warming has to be one of the greatest hoaxes ever perpetrated. It's used to justify the system in Australia where we pay high prices for energy from our extensive coal reserves and are then made to feel guilty about it by paying an extra "carbon tax". Meanwhile, we export 70% of out coal production to China, where it's burned as they see fit, and then sell us their products.

We are spending many millions of dollars on CCS schemes, when even High School chemistry should tell us that the idea is crazy. How many people realise that 1 ton of coal produces at least 3 tons of carbon dioxide?

Idiotic politicians link recent climatic events (fire, storms etc.) to global warming and they are apparently ignorant about the long-term history of the naturally unstable climate. You don't hear much of the liklehood of a return to an ice-age in about 1000 years, or the historical record of sea- levels.

See, you got me started...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok, i checked the blower control switch ,no burning,melting at all,just out pf curiosity I took the switch apart and lo and behold it was wet inside,evidently some child of mine spilled a fluid on the dash and zap.I replace the switch and now 1-2 and 3 settings work but high doesn't still.A
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Replaced switch,there was moisture inside it from a spill evidently,anyhow now1-2 and 3 settings work ,yet high still doesn't and when I turned the switch to high ,after a few tries I smelled this electrical burning smell.Do you think the moisture in the switch may have zapped the relay that closes and enables the blower to bypass the resistor or maybe you have a better idea,I hope so_Once again thanks .
 

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Sweet caramelized sugar smell usually indicates the dash was baptized with Coke or Pepsi :) or you may have found a bad plug/socket connection in a dash harness by moving the wires.. Check the plug that connects to the High Relay also...
I'd say replace both the switch and the relay (boneyard) and be done with it.
It's not worth the aggravation. You may have re-assembled the switch wrong (I'm an electronic tech and have known myself to fail so you are allowed to).

I remember many things funny in my repairing past...Like a "NEW" beta vcr in for warranty work that the customer's child fed it's mouth jellybeans...When the tape went in it smashed them and the heat within allowed them to flow under the loading ring.
The recorder worked until the dad shut it off...
Car CD players are also great coin banks...
The wife that watered (and fertilized) her hanging plants and destroyed the plasma TV and DVD player when the plant peed...
Parts from a "donor" car should be OK as I haven't seen too many switch problems here (usually the blower motors go first).
Dave
 
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