I think the "blends" are a bit less expensive. OTOH, I try not to go cheap when it comes to filters and lubes. I tend to run my vehicles till they take the final dirtnap or the repair costs exceed a new car payment. My last car was 11 years old when a deer threw itself on it and at 92K it was still going strong (wrx turbo wagon).You'll probably get many opinions but I would use synthetic. I don't even understand the 'blend' or what real benefit it would have over conventional motor oil.
Why not go with full synthetic?Someone let me know where they can find a Synthetic Blend of 0W-20; because, I don't think they make that.
I disagree with thisIf one is on very tight budget - then go with a 'conventional' oil that's is in fact a blend while sold as 'conventional', otherwise use 'full' or '100%' synth oil.
There are several brands that sell synth blend oils as 'conventional' in several viscosities but not all viscosities.
Reality is there are no 100% synth oils but oils with more or less synth content.
One such 'dino' oil that's actually a blend is Valvoline Conventional (white bottle) in 5w-20, 5w-30 and 10w-30 grades.
Also, personally I prefer 'full' synth with SN Plus and A5/B5 certifications in my cars' engines and 5w-XX visco, there are several reasons for my choice.
No it is not. I easily get 10K on Castrol edge 0W30 european formula and I have the oil analysis from Blackstone labs to prove it.10K miles OCI in GDI engine is most def asking for trouble. Even with PP I don't go over 5K miles in MPI and 4K miles in GDI.
There is oil / gas dilution and add pack depletion to name just two.
If something can be done it doesn't always mean it should be done.