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You'll probably get many opinions but I would use synthetic. I don't even understand the 'blend' or what real benefit it would have over conventional motor oil.
 

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You'll probably get many opinions but I would use synthetic. I don't even understand the 'blend' or what real benefit it would have over conventional motor oil.
I think the "blends" are a bit less expensive. OTOH, I try not to go cheap when it comes to filters and lubes. I tend to run my vehicles till they take the final dirtnap or the repair costs exceed a new car payment. My last car was 11 years old when a deer threw itself on it and at 92K it was still going strong (wrx turbo wagon).
 

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Depends on how often you want for your oil changes, just like always....
 

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I use Castrol full synthetic and buy it from Costco. If you go to the dealership, ask them what synthetic they use?
I also buy high quality filters as well.

Sent from my MHA-L29 using Tapatalk
 

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If you are going to keep your car long term, go with full synthetic. If you lease or turn your cars over ever 5yr's or so use any premium oil that meets the OEM spec's in your manual.
No matter if you use oil labeled conventional, semi-syn, of full synthetic, I'd advise you to be sure to adhere to the recommended oil change intervals, and use OEM filters. Also keep proof of all your changes.
Semi-Synthetic, and Synthetic Blend are nothing more than marketing terms. Virtually all modern motor oils are "Semi Syn Blends" as they all have an additive/fortification package formulated into them.
If you want to get into the oil thing deeper I'd suggest reading this.
Very informative, and I know it changed my way of thinking about engine oil.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
 

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I use Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-20 and Kia OEM filters. I never use aftermarket oil filters. The extra expense for a OEM filter is minimal when it comes to the longevity of your engine. After market oil filters have a few generic internal designs used for many different vehicle engines made by many different manufacturers. Kia designs their filters specifically for their engines.
 

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Had first oil change last week, requested full synthetic and they didn't have it in stock so I had to wait an additional 40 minutes for them to get it. HAHA.
 

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If one is on very tight budget - then go with a 'conventional' oil that's is in fact a blend while sold as 'conventional', otherwise use 'full' or '100%' synth oil.
There are several brands that sell synth blend oils as 'conventional' in several viscosities but not all viscosities.
Reality is there are no 100% synth oils but oils with more or less synth content.
One such 'dino' oil that's actually a blend is Valvoline Conventional (white bottle) in 5w-20, 5w-30 and 10w-30 grades.
Also, personally I prefer 'full' synth with SN Plus and A5/B5 certifications in my cars' engines and 5w-XX visco, there are several reasons for my choice.
 

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If one is on very tight budget - then go with a 'conventional' oil that's is in fact a blend while sold as 'conventional', otherwise use 'full' or '100%' synth oil.
There are several brands that sell synth blend oils as 'conventional' in several viscosities but not all viscosities.
Reality is there are no 100% synth oils but oils with more or less synth content.
One such 'dino' oil that's actually a blend is Valvoline Conventional (white bottle) in 5w-20, 5w-30 and 10w-30 grades.
Also, personally I prefer 'full' synth with SN Plus and A5/B5 certifications in my cars' engines and 5w-XX visco, there are several reasons for my choice.
I disagree with this

Blends are fine with a 3,000 mile change interval whereas good Euro spec Synthetics can exceed 10K on the interval with great performance and engine protection. Even if you are doing your own oil changes you pay just as much with conventional oil vs synthetic unless you go longer on the conventual oil which can shorten the life of your engine which is not cost effective
 

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10K miles OCI in GDI engine is most def asking for trouble. Even with PP I don't go over 5K miles in MPI and 4K miles in GDI.

There is oil / gas dilution and add pack depletion to name just two.
If something can be done it doesn't always mean it should be done.
 

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10K miles OCI in GDI engine is most def asking for trouble. Even with PP I don't go over 5K miles in MPI and 4K miles in GDI.

There is oil / gas dilution and add pack depletion to name just two.
If something can be done it doesn't always mean it should be done.
No it is not. I easily get 10K on Castrol edge 0W30 european formula and I have the oil analysis from Blackstone labs to prove it.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com

pull a sample send it and read the data you tell them the car you have the oil you are using and how well it's doing. If the oil and it's additives are not breaking down then it is just as good as the day you put it in the hole. :)
 
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