AWD Warning Light/Squeeky Brakes

4807 Views 7 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Tripplec, Nov 10, 2019

ssmith0125

Discussion Starter · Nov 8, 2019

Had this car less than two weeks. The brakes started squeaking a couple days after I got it (it was raining a lot so I paid no mind) and then it got worse. Shortly after the AWD warning indicator light came on and I noticed I burning smell from the tires. Took it in to be serviced and they replaced the calipers and rotors. Well the next day it was back at it!!! What the heck man?! ?

Save

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

LMP

· #2 · Nov 8, 2019 (Edited)

ssmith0125 said:
.... I noticed I burning smell from the tires

COMply with Ron request.....then do you feel resistance, dragging brake effect ? Can you turn ESP off and see if that changes something? THen, you can pull of the 20A 4WD fuse from the fusebox under the hood. THis will decommission AWD, but also traction control. Erroneous activation of traction control does apply brake to the wheel that is sensed as spinning....but that comes with a rattling noise....
Report findings. www.avigex.ca/kia/fuse0s.JPG

EDIT:....on a second thought, I'm not so sure disabling AWD would also disable traction control.....however you should try it: the AWD control is known for several problems that lead to ruining the AWD coupler. But if oyu still have the same problem, you can also pull off the 7.5A ABS3 fuse. Of course, it disables ABS....but also AWD and traction control for sure. THen see if that removes your problem...then you will be on a track, or search, to identify the actual cause or culprit. These test are not for the car to stay in this condition; you will want to recover all functions as soon as possible.

See less See more

Save

Reactions: 1

ssmith0125

Discussion Starter · #3 · Nov 9, 2019

No. No resistance of any kind. And the only noise is the brakes squeaking. But it’s like obnoxiously loud! And it seems to be worse when lightly breaking. I will definitely do that though thank you.

Save

LMP

· #4 · Nov 9, 2019 (Edited)

I want to point out that when I bought mine, I thought the brakes were worn out because of the grinding sound they would exibit when braking....so I changed all brake pads and refaced the disks..just to find the same...disks get signs of light surface corrosion very fast if car is left there for a few days...but a short trip will grind the light corrosion at first then the brakes do not exibit annoying sound any longer. ANd the same is true for wife'S SX4. So in my case, no problem.....
ANd by the way, some of the relays and fuses shown in the picture above do not exist in mine
www.avigex.ca/kia/fuse9s.JPG

Save

rejesterd

· #5 · Nov 9, 2019

ssmith0125 said:
Had this car less than two weeks. The brakes started squeaking a couple days after I got it (it was raining a lot so I paid no mind) and then it got worse. Shortly after the AWD warning indicator light came on and I noticed I burning smell from the tires. Took it in to be serviced and they replaced the calipers and rotors. Well the next day it was back at it!!! What the heck man?! ?

If I had an AWD warning light come on and I smelled something burning, the first thing I would do is drain the transfer case oil and look for metal shavings. I can't believe whoever worked on your car didn't do that, and just passed it off as brakes. An AWD warning light means something is seriously wrong with the AWD system.. that doesn't include the brakes. The only warning light associated with brakes is the ABS warning.

Save

LMP

· #6 · Nov 9, 2019 (Edited)

THere is a very remote chance that an AWD warning comes from the transfer case (bolted to the transmission). . THe actual AWD "coupling" happens at the coupler, bolted to the rear differential and not sharing its oil. A high coupling oil temperature will pop a warning....and disable AWD.

FOr your info (from the KIA manual) :

Transfer oil : Hypoid gear oil, MS 517-I5 GT
(SAE 75W/90, API GL-5, SHELL SPIRAX X or equivalent)
Gasoline3.3
0.68 L (0.18 U.S.gal, 0.72 U.S.qt, 0.60 lmp,qt)
Gasoline 2.4
0.6 L (0.16 U.S.gal., 0.63 U.S.qt, 0.53 Imp.qt.)

Coupling oil
shell tf0870 0.485 L (0.13 U.S.gal., 0.51U.S.qt, 0.43Imp.qt.)

Dynamax AWD system (and Hyundai H-Trac, which is the same) suffer serious problems linked to the rear drive being locked up and making rear wheels drag and slip in tight turns while in AUTO mode.
Turning the electric supply off (AWD fuse) removes the locked up condition, meaning that the mechanical elements of the clutch system itself are OK, but irrelevant inputs keep the electric/hydraulic pump in full action when it should stay quiet..KIA keeps changing the whole coupler unit to solve the problem , but IMO, the electronic command system is at fault, maybe the pressure sensor, or something else.
Units that are replaced commonly return to fault condition after some time , so changing the unit solves the consequence, but not the cause.
THere are few, if any, reports that this problem happens with the 2.4. Most seem related to the superior power of the 3.3

See less See more

Save

Reactions: 1

rejesterd

· #7 · Nov 9, 2019

Yep, the differential should also be drained. But if the calipers/rotors/everything was replaced and there's still a burning smell, that would be telling me to look elsewhere (as I think OP said there is no resistance, which is what that dragging effect would cause).

Save

Tripplec

· #8 · Nov 10, 2019

One might try and identify the smell of whats burning. Oil and brakes for example have unique smells and a dragging brake pad will overheat the rotor which when approached can be found emitting a smell as well to identify it (don't touch the rotor face after drive, severe blister burn will result!! I done that long ago and learned)

Save

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month