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I drive mine like that (switch installed) regularly, as a preventive measure: I do not have the problem. ESC and ABS are still alive. NO problem other than the "slip" light on the instrument panel, that disappears when I turn AWD back ON. FOr the rest, it becomes a FWD, period.

However, the condition you..and others...have described in a similar way, makes me puzzled: if pulling the fuse clears the problem, it means the coupler itself, I mean the clutch components, are then electrically de-energized and act accordingly. SO the problem is not the clutch itself, but the elements that keep it energized when it should not: OK they are "part of" the coupler system (pressure sensor, hydraulic pump motor, ....?) and are part of and replaced with the replacement of the whole "coupler" , thus clearing the problem...for a while, it seems from reports that the problem comes again later. IF my question here proves true, it could mean that my "coupler saving" solution might not save the problem in the long run (unlesss it also saves the crappy electronics) . Fact is, KIA (Hyundai) DOES have a problem, since it repeats itself systematically, maybe not for everyone, but in the same way for all those who are plagued with it. ANd their only admission that there is a problem is that they replace the coupler.. they correct the result, not the cause.
My guess it's the process of activating clutch engagement inside a defective coupling. The coupler clutch system is trying to engage the input driveshaft to an internally torn apart output shaft flange/spline. It could be grinding the internals together causing the jerking and banging. Killing the clutch activation (removing fuse) eliminates any internal coupler attempts to join the input/output shafts together. " Remember I said my guess nothing proven"
 

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..The coupler clutch system is trying to engage the input driveshaft to an internally torn apart output shaft flange/spline...
Negative. There is no "hard" mechanical coupling, no spline, no grinding. THe coupling is strictly a hydraulically applied clutch coupling
www.avigex.ca/kia/4wd.pdf
 

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Right on LMP it's hydraulic! Plus it's worked perfect for me so far! But I'm curious, why would you want to turn it off? Or even install a switch to turn it off? By the way I forgot to mention in my last post, I thought I'd get better gas millage too! Avg. 20mpg, Quite the contrary, it dropped to about 15mpg :eek: It puzzles me, but I think it's because of the terrain up here. Also I've previously gotten 25mpg on some hiway driving. I think the SX probably has a tighter factory suspension because it also uses a stock 19" lower profile wider tire.
 

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I was mixed up with the AWD not engaging problem. 39 seconds onto this video "
" . Defective weld problem on AWD output shaft to the internal drive flange. This post is about not-disengaging problem. Sorry for the confusion.
 

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..., why would you want to turn it off?...
Because , from what I read from many, the KIA "computer logic" makes it apply when not needed..like in turns, where wheel speed difference between front and rear forces the cluth to slip (if applied) . I intent to install a pair of wires to read pressure sensor voltage on the go and see when and how the clutch applies . I will report.
 

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All I can say is thanks for this post! I am having the exact problem and thought I was going to have a hard time explaining it to the point where someone else would listen. I at least can point the service guys here and show them parts if they "don't know what my problem is". Funny thing is it only seems to happen to me on certain intersections where I am stopped and pointing downhill. But its the same thing. (Yes symptoms go away when fuse is removed)
 

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Finally got an appointment (omg appointments in my area of Maryland are crazy hard to get, or i just hit a busy time). Anyway, dropped it off in the afternoon, clearly described how I could recreate problem and if I pulled 4wd fuse it would not occur. Service writer smiled and and said sounds like AWD coupler, but thats not my call to make. Hour later they called and said yes that was the problem, had the parts in stock and would have it ready the next day (I didn't drop it off till 3pm as that was first appt i could get). Needless to say problem is gone for the moment with new unit in place.
 

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Finally got an appointment (omg appointments in my area of Maryland are crazy hard to get, or i just hit a busy time). Anyway, dropped it off in the afternoon, clearly described how I could recreate problem and if I pulled 4wd fuse it would not occur. Service writer smiled and and said sounds like AWD coupler, but thats not my call to make. Hour later they called and said yes that was the problem, had the parts in stock and would have it ready the next day (I didn't drop it off till 3pm as that was first appt i could get). Needless to say problem is gone for the moment with new unit in place.


I just bought a used 2015 Kia Sorento and have been experiencing the same issue I think. Do you know if you pull the AWD fuse out if you can drive around safely without it for several days before taking it in to get the awd coupling fixed?

Thank you
 

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... Do you know if you pull the AWD fuse out if you can drive around safely without it for several days before taking it in to get the awd coupling fixed?..
NO problem. I drive mine in 2WD (AWD fuse SWITCEHD out) all the time. I actvate AWD when needed.
 

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I have a '14 Sorento that had the AWD coupler replaced under warranty (at 4 years). Now with 70k miles on the car its acting up again. Is this part covered under the Powertrain warranty (10/100)?
 

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I have a '14 Sorento that had the AWD coupler replaced under warranty (at 4 years). Now with 70k miles on the car its acting up again. Is this part covered under the Powertrain warranty (10/100)?
Should I just had a third one put in (one at 50k and at 80k) the other day and it was covered under my 10/100k. hope I dont continue on this trend of couplers every 30-50k if so the next ones going to be out of pocket!
 

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From what I am seeing this coupler is failing as any other part considered as a wear item. I shouldn't, if and when it might the life should be at least double that. I don't know whether its the internal design or quality of materials used. I do know its engaging all the time and may be agrevated by power out of turns too hard on the throttle. I go easier until the wheels are straight so the rear wheels are turning at the same speed when I put away from a corner stop and turn left/right to carry on. I expect it will help but eventually it will fail again. Its only a question of how long before it does wear out.

This is my wife's ride while I have a Highlander 4WD which is full time and doesn't use one of these. Most manufactures have gone to these couplers but I doubt they're failing like these kia/hyundai ones which are the same.
 

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From what I am seeing this coupler is failing as any other part considered as a wear item. I shouldn't, if and when it might the life should be at least double that. I don't know whether its the internal design or quality of materials used. I do know its engaging all the time and may be agrevated by power out of turns too hard on the throttle. I go easier until the wheels are straight so the rear wheels are turning at the same speed when I put away from a corner stop and turn left/right to carry on. I expect it will help but eventually it will fail again. Its only a question of how long before it does wear out.

This is my wife's ride while I have a Highlander 4WD which is full time and doesn't use one of these. Most manufactures have gone to these couplers but I doubt they're failing like these kia/hyundai ones which are the same.
Yea this is also my wife daily driver and she has a heavier foot then I do so I will have to ask her to go easy on it. Plus I was reading on here some where that going from dirt to pavement especially like you said Tripplec turning will wear it out faster. Well we have a dirt driveway that is on a major road so that probably isn't helping either.
 

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Because , from what I read from many, the KIA "computer logic" makes it apply when not needed..like in turns, where wheel speed difference between front and rear forces the cluth to slip (if applied) . I intent to install a pair of wires to read pressure sensor voltage on the go and see when and how the clutch applies . I will report.
I agree with LMP. I have been suffering with this differential issue in my brand new KIA Sorento AWA SX 2013. I had no issues till 90K KM than i noticed the car was making slight noise like it is passing through bumpy road especially on left or right tern soon as i press gas after a complete stop. I kept thinking it may be the bumpy road. when i took the car to dealership at 98K they knew i was very close for out of warranty. They suggested to replace all 4 tires, i did that but the issue still continued. The next visit the dealership suggested to replace rear break pads, i replaced it. but the noise continued. Unfortunately the differential completely broke when making left tern and I had to tow the car to dealership when they said i am out of warranty and they can't do anything.

I got the differential replaced outside and i regularly change differential oil as well. My car is around 150K now and the same issue started again. Not sure what is the permanent fix. Vehicle has no other problems. i am wondering if i remove 4WD fuse will it blink any lights on the dashboard or will it cause any damages to the vehicle? What is the life of this car when i am 150K already.
 

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I agree with LMP. I have been suffering with this differential issue in my brand new KIA Sorento AWA SX 2013. I had no issues till 90K KM than i noticed the car was making slight noise like it is passing through bumpy road especially on left or right tern soon as i press gas after a complete stop. I kept thinking it may be the bumpy road. when i took the car to dealership at 98K they knew i was very close for out of warranty. They suggested to replace all 4 tires, i did that but the issue still continued. The next visit the dealership suggested to replace rear break pads, i replaced it. but the noise continued. Unfortunately the differential completely broke when making left tern and I had to tow the car to dealership when they said i am out of warranty and they can't do anything.

I got the differential replaced outside and i regularly change differential oil as well. My car is around 150K now and the same issue started again. Not sure what is the permanent fix. Vehicle has no other problems. i am wondering if i remove 4WD fuse will it blink any lights on the dashboard or will it cause any damages to the vehicle? What is the life of this car when i am 150K already.
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.. if i remove 4WD fuse will it blink any lights on the dashboard or will it cause any damages to the vehicle? What is the life of this car when i am 150K already.
THe ESP "wave" signal lights up and that's all. ESP then becomes inactive . There is no damage because the coupler is released and the car just works as a FWD .
 

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I was at a dealer looking at a 2019 and mention the weak point of these couplers failing. I was told its not a problem and manifested by certain failures, individual on forums. To be clear I was a victim just over 40k km having to have mine replaces. I believe they're just making light of the issue.
 
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