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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

Ive tried searching the forums and its given me a bit of a headahce so i hope someone can shine some light one this for me.

I cleaned the hot wire / air mass meter on a Kia Carnival 3.8L v6 with some throttle body / carbi cleaner. :rolleyes:

Ive cleaned heaps before but never had an issue. This thing im working on is missing now when i give it a bit on the highway and at idle its ideling low and rough.

I thought i may have damaged the guts of it with the carbi cleaner but then i have cleaned lots of other hot wires with carbi clean / throttle body cleaner and ive never had a rough idle afterwards.


I saw an black plastic thermometer for IAT and two hot wires im assuming on the same circuit for measuring air mass.

What the hell is that shiny plastic strip thing that is in front of them?

The unit has 4 wires coming out of it and im assuming they are

1. 12v power in
2. ground
3.IAT signal to ECU
4. Hotwire signal to ECU

what id like help with is:
are these the type that are damaged that easliy?
and, what the hell is that stip thing - does it have a circuit?
 

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06 Sedona LX, 06 Sedona EX, 14 Forte EX, 11 Sportage EX, 11 Forte 5-door SX, 15 K900 VIP+
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Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS) is a hot-film type sensor and is located in between the air cleaner and the throttle body. It consists of a tube, a sensor assembly and honeycomb cell and detects intake air quantity flowing into the intake manifold. Air flows from the air cleaner assembly through the honeycomb cell and over the hot film element. At this time, heat transfer is generated by convection and this sensor loses its energy. This sensor detects the mass air flow by using the energy loss and transfers the information to the PCM by frequency. The PCM calculates fuel quantity and ignition timing.
Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IATS) is installed inside the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS) and detects the intake air temperature. To calculate precise air quantity, correction of the air temperature is needed because air density varies according to the temperature. So the PCM uses not only MAFS signal but also IATS signal. This sensor has a Negative Temperature Coefficient (NTC) and its resistance is in inverse proportion to the temperature.
Here are the schematics:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey thans for that but the one i have has 4 wires coming into the harness. this one you sent over has 5 wires - but i will be putting it into my notes. thanks =)

any idea on the 4 wire set up and why it could be idling crap?
 

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See if this is more like it. BPS = Barometric Pressure Sensor, same thing as MAFS.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
hmmm that one looks like a Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP sensor with an IAC integrated. very cool but not what im looking at =/

i think its also called a Kia Sedona 3.8L V6 - its a big people moved thing like a mini bus.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
P0110 intake air temperature malfunction was pulled out from te dealership guy

So was a symptom code p0300 random multiple misfire

Anyone else experience this after hitting the MAF / IAT with throttle body cleaner?

Also the guy said that a software upgrade could fix it but I think that's just a story to cover the cost of a free code pull and clear the nice man did for me... New sensor 660
 

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Yeah, I have two Sedonas. The second schematic I pulled from the 2011+ model. I have cleaned my throttle bodies...but have never felt the need to spray any sensors with volatile chemicals. Was it dirty? You would try to check for resistance/continuity. If you are getting an IAT code, you probably smoked it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah I probably did. The guy at kia gave me that look you give a kid who put a toy soldier in the VCR

I have cleaned heaps of Hotwire on Toyota hot wires so from now on no cleany hot wirey

My mistake it is a 5 wire plug

MAFS SIGNAL - green wire - 5v
B+ pink\black wire - 12v
B- black wire - 0v
IATS SIGNAL - white wire - 5v
SENSOR - - brown wire -0v

These were the voltages taken with the harness unplugged
 

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Everything on the harness side is functioning correctly. Which means it is the sensor itself. Test the resistance between the 4 and 5 terminals ( where the brown and white wires connect to). Test the resistance based on the nearest of these temperatures to the ambient temperature at the time of the test. If the resistance doesn't match up, or you have an open lead, your IATS is junk.

32 degrees = 9.40kΩ

50 degrees = 5.66kΩ

68 degrees = 3.51kΩ

104 degrees = 1.47kΩ
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've tested the brown and white connecting pins on the sensor with it unplugged and it has continuity

I checked the air temp in the air box with the temp probe of my multimeter ad it has returned back 90 degrees F (30 degrees C)

IAT sensor returned back 1.5k ohms

Hair dryer test?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
ok so ive double checked my test results as i noticed that it takes a little time for the IAT sensor to level out to one resistance ( instead of creeping up slowly)

After running the car for about 10 minutes with the thermometer probe on my digital multi meter in the intake ducting near the MAF sensor i found the intake air temperature was 25 degrees Celcius (77 degrees F)

-first test-
IAT resistance to be 2.774 k ohms @ 25 degrees Celcius
IAT Sensor output voltage 2.385 Volts @ 25 degrees Celcius
MAF sensor output signal 2.7KHz at idle with the auto range function on the DMM
outside air was 13 degrees celcius (50 degrees F)

-second test-
IAT resistance was 4.5k ohms @ 16 degrees Celcius at intake ducting with key on engine off (62 degrees F)
 

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It seems as if the IATS is functioning properly.....does it still throw a code after resetting it?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Yeah it's doing my head in

The codes that are coming up are P0300 - random misfire on multiple cylinders which sounds like a symptom

The other is P0110 IAT circuit malfunction

I've been searching everywhere for a technical service bulletin because the guy at Kia said there was one released that calls for a software update but I haven't been able to find it.

Logic tells me that if the sensor is ok, and the input from the computer and battery is ok, and the out puts are ok, and the codes are p0110 then it must be this update.

I did think maybe the EGR valve was stuck open causing low engine speed missing but wasn't sure. Are the EGR valves controlled by the ecu or by vacuum?
 

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It doesn't have an EGR system. I found that TSB. ENG035. Sounds like exactly what your problem is.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
haha no wonder i couldnt find the EGR valve.

awesome thanks so much for all your help over the last few days. Your a champion

Problem SOLVED.
 
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