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2010 Subaru Impreza 2.5i Premium 5-door, *old* 2009 Kia Rondo LX 4cyl 2.4L
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So, to make a long story short, I had been started hearing a buzzing whine from the front end of my car this past week. Checking into it, it was coming from the serpentine belt area, so I figured I might as well go ahead and change the belt out (69,340 miles). Yes, this is early, but I like to replace things before I'm stuck on the side of the road somewhere. Using a mechanic's stethoscope, I checked and it seemed the lower idler pulley was making a bit of racket as well. Checking the old idler pulley, I noticed a bit of grease coming from the bearing and it didn't feel very smooth. I got a new idler pulley from O'Reilly and installed that and the new belt. Started the car and... the noise was still there...

Probing around with the mechanic's stethoscope a bit more, the alternator seemed smooth as could be, so did the power steering pump. When I got to the AC compressor, it was loud as could be... Not what I wanted to find out! On further inspection of the construction of the AC compressor, it seems that the pulley always spins, then the magnetic clutch tightens it up with the outer clutch that is connected to a spline driveshaft whenever the AC kicks on. The noise was always on, no matter if the AC was on or off, which led me to suspect that the bearing might be going out. Feeling around on the pulley, I was able to feel a little slop/play.

Checking online and calling the parts departments at local Kia dealers, it seems that you can get a new pulley with the bearing inside (Kia part #97643-1D100), but local stealerships wanted $229! :eek:

I thought there had to be a better way to do this, so pulled the clutch off (10mm bolt) the front of the compressor, undid the snap ring and tried to slide the pulley off the shaft. This is where I ran into a problem. The pulley needed another 1-2mm of clearance between the shaft and the car's frame. There are 4 bolts on the compressor body. By removing these bolts, I was able to move the compressor back enough to slide the pulley off while still keeping all the lines and hoses intact. Since the pulley and clutch are completely separate from the internals of the compressor, there is no need to evacuate the system or disconnect the lineset.



After the pulley was off, I checked and the bearing felt quite gritty and was noisy. Looking up the bearing number, it is Korean NSK 30BD5222DUM6 (52mm outside diameter, 30mm inner diameter, 22mm thick.



I located a new bearing at a local bearing supply shop for $40, and picked it up yesterday (Japan Nachi 30BG5222UUS). I found a good machine shop and they were able to press the old bearing out and press in the new one in about 10 minutes for $35.



After getting the pulley back with the new bearing, it felt as smooth as could be. It took 20 minutes or so to get the pulley, snap ring, and clutch reinstalled and remount the AC compressor (careful to tighten the 4 bolts in the order specified in KGIS). Then I just remounted the belt, put back all the plastic cladding and voila, the Rondo is quiet, runs great, and the AC works great!
 

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2016 FIAT 500X Trekking Plus AWD; 2016 Kia Forte5 SX 1.6T A/T
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thanks for the input. That's good to know the pulley can be changed with the compressor on the car. I am not sure if V6 is same, though.
 

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Kia Rondo
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Hello, this is Diego from Argentina... I am facing the same issue and I would like to resolve it by myself as you did.
Since I do not have access to the KGIS... con can you please tell me which is the correct way to tighten the 4 bolts of the AC compressor?

Thanks in advance.
Diego
 

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same problem here

thank god i found your post. I have the exact same problem, where when I accelerate, the noise gets louder, and it only happens when the clutch engages.

thank you so much for the pictures and the part numbers, you are aweome.
 
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