Kia Forum banner
1 - 1 of 1 Posts

·
Registered
2007 Kia Sorento 3.8 Automatic
Joined
·
1 Posts
I need everyone struggling with this situation of no A/C clutch engagement to consider something very carefully.
My adventure was perplexing, but I was not about to give up easily.
I'll skip past the details of where this problem led me and get right to the important part.

Diagnosis 101 says: Always check your basics first! (Before you start traveling down rabbit holes in despair and over-thinking things, "Basics" is always the best place to start).
Assumptions: Don't make them!!........ Test, Confirm and verify. Follow procedure, don't skip steps. Follow logical order.
When chasing a problem, it's always best to start at the end of a circuit and work your way back.

An example would be if your tail light was out, it would be best to start at the bulb, then the socket, the ground, the fuse, the switch, etc.

In the case of the A/C compressor clutch, the very end of the circuit is the compressor clutch itself.
I point this out because it needs to be tested and confirmed regardless of whether or not power is being sent from the relay.

If you find no power at the compressor, test the compressor clutch directly.
Apply voltage directly to the compressor clutch.
If it works, the problem is the supply wire, if it doesn't work it's a bad compressor clutch.

But understand, you could have both!
Consider a bad compressor and an open circuit like a blown fuse. You would have neither power present or action from the clutch.

I was really curious when I couldn't get my confirmed good compressor to engage when the under-hood relay was jumped.

So, I traced the red compressor wire back toward the relay in the under-hood fuse box and low and behold I found the problem.

There's a connector on the red wire where it joins the vehicles main conduit behind and below the driver side headlamp assembly.


The connector was separated.
And I know exactly how it happened!

The vehicle had an alternator failure just days earlier and I didn't remove the battery tray completely when replacing the alternator. So I ended up wrangling with the tray and the alternator when attempting to remove and subsequently re-install the alternator. This wrangling of the battery tray is what caused the connector by the headlight assembly to come apart.

The red wire I traced back to this connector is tethered to the battery tray. (It is tape wrapped with another cable). It runs up from the A/C Compressor below, through a conduit, is tethered to the bottom of the battery tray and eventually travels around the bottom of the tray to a connector directly behind & below the driver side headlight assembly.

It's a quick basic visual check and may just be 'your' open circuit and the solution to your problem.

The vehicle I was working on was a 2007 Kia Sorento 6 cylinder.

Good Luck All! I hope this helps someone!
 
1 - 1 of 1 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top