[drewbabich]

I'm about to do the brakes on 09 borrego.

I used to do all my brake jobs on my economy cheap beater cars by just compressing the calipers with a c clamp and never touching the bleeder valve or removing the master cyclinder cover. I always figured this was better then risking screwing up the bleed procedure and getting air in the lines. But I also know this forces old dirty fluid back up the line. Also I've heard that cars with ABS can require special brake job procedures.

I've got 52,000 miles on the car and the brakes are still about 95% as smooth as new when stopping. I get a tiny tiny bit of vibration under hard braking, but I'd really love to save the money and time and leave the oem rotors on there if I can. I always used to do my brakes with new aftermarket rotors and still I'd have a lot of brake vibration. I never bought oem rotors though so I got what I deserved I suppose.

Any advice on the rotors and what I should do? Do they just float on the hub and come right off when you take of the caliper. Do you need to remove an axle nut or anything?

Do then rust onto the hub sometimes? I had that problem once and had to cut them off. My cars get lots of salty new England winter exposure.

I’m going to try and go with the wagner pads from autozone if I can find a coupon for $55 as recommended in the other brake job posting.

 

[johnmark23]

I put the Wagner thermoquiet pads on the front of mine. They are a big improvement over the stock ones. My rotors are still nice and smooth too. If I were you, just take the rotors to a machine shop and have them resurfaced. The OEM rotors seem to be very good quality.

The reason I put new pads on was due to an annoying high pitched squeak. I probably could have just cleaned everything and re greased the backing plates, but I decided to go new for about $50. I got mine at O'Reilly auto parts.

It is a very strait forward application. There is a Kia website that gives you instructions. Can't think of the name at the moment.

 

[drewbabich]

I think the BECK ARNLEY ceramic 086-1825C Brake Pad or Shoe, Front are the oem brand ones?

I may go with these for 67 dollars on ebay.

 

[johnmark23]

I compared OEM to the Wagner. Wagner had a much better pad design. It looks like more pad material actually touches the rotor than stock. Have them on my borrego and gmc Sierra. I think they are superior to the OEM.

 

[drewbabich]

?

Thanks for the input john. I'll look for the wagners.

How much did your rotor turning cost. My midas says they'll do it for 30 each.

When you compressed your calipers did you open the bleed screws then bleed the brakes? Or did you just clamp down on the calipers without messing with the bleeders?

 

[r1concepts]

If you need new pads or rotors, feel free to let me know and I'd be glad to hook you up on new brakes!

 

[johnmark23]

I did not have my rotors turned. They are still nice and smooth without any pulse. $30 per rotor sounds about right but shop around. Call some local shops with a good reputation.

I used a c-clamp with a thin piece of wood (like the size of a wood shim) to press evenly (fronts are double piston). I did not mess with any screws. Just take the lid off brake fluid reservoir as it will rise. The pads are very simple to change. You will need to get some high temp pad grease and make sure you clean the clips and slides. I used the old clips and just cleaned them with brake parts cleaner.

 

[TestPoint]

My local O'Rilley AP store turns rotors for $4 each with the expectation that you will buy your pads there I suppose.

Hint on bleeding brakes: pick up a turkey baster at your local dollar store, suck the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir and refill with fresh. That significantly reduces the amount of fluid you have to pump through the caliper before new fluid shows up.