Thes symptoms started 2 days ago. And the engine light came on today. I want to check the TPS first. I've used an ohmeter to check it on other cars. Is there anything different here? Also, what are the most common causes of this problem? Does the engine light go off by itself when the problem is fixed?
The light is staying on solid. New wires were put on in November. Tho I do recall replacing the wires a few years earlier because of a regular miss. This time, it has moments of good power, but then it bogs if I give it more gas, plus it bucks when slowing down.
I pulled off the TPS connector to test the resistance and there are no spikes or dead zones. I drove it to Advance Auto and on the way there, the engine light went off, and all the symptoms went away.
well if it is off leave it till it goes on again. if goes on again get it scanned again. to restet the codes. disconnect neg terminal on battery get in car push brake pedal. the reconnect! if it does come on again and you get that maf code going to have to replace the maf. also the ecu on these cars can adapt to a bad code and fix it if possible. maybe the maf got a bad signal for a moment then changed the mixture (this is what the maf helps with).