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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
New to Kia forum, currently have a Buick Enclave (2013 w/ 75k mi) and considering switching to Kia family. Not looking for a Telluride (too large), instead want something smaller, even though we do have 3 kids (9, 7 & 4yr old still in the car seat). Wife wants something smaller (similar to RX350 we had a 4 years ago prior to Enclave) and convinced her to give Kia a try. Test drove the 2018 Sorento SX and was very impressed with the ride and size (decent cargo with 3rd row seats down) and plenty of power as well as quietness (as compared to Buick). Few questions on various topics that I would like to get input.

Seats: Wife does have a bad back (sciotic nerve) and needs an ability to adjust the lumbar support which surprisingly was missing on the front passanger side (I typically drive on longer family trips). I then looked at the 2019 equivalent and there is a 2-way adjustment available (compared to 4 way on driver side). Question: how hard would it be to swap out the seat from the 2019? Has anyone looked if the connectors are the same? I found a really good deal on the fully loaded 2018 SX which I want to pull the trigger on with hopes of later doing the swap (used part from online would be fine).

Transmission: In my research the 6-speed trainy (standard in 2018) tends to be better shifting and as a result a faster 0-60 performance then newer 8-speed. Local salesman stated this is due to programming to make a better MPG as required by EPA. I am not too concerned about gaining 2mpg but more so about long term reliability. Read few posts and disucssions about shifting and problems with 8-speed and wanted to see what the agreement is on this chose.

Towing: Is this thing really capable of towing 5,000 lbs (with AWD) or this will impact the life of the vehicle? Not planning on using it often or going too high, but wanted to judge the feedback as to what everyone is doing. THinking of possibly getting a smaller camper down the read (never did it with Enclave although it was a priority as well) :).
I also had a rear in-seat entertainment system and kids loved it. Didn't see an option for this at all and the Kia dealer stated I am better off giving tablets, etc. Is that what everyone is doing? Those headrest didn't look too large to fit any decent size screen in it.

Thanks again and looking forward to being a Kia family member.
 

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You are looking at a 2 year old car. At this time you should be able to get a really good deal on a 2019. I picked up my daughters 2018 Santa Fe new at this time last year, and it was WAY cheaper than a 2019. Problem solved.

I also don't know what you mean by "loaded", You may be able to find everything you want in an EX V6 and save some money.
What I don't have:
Cooled seats
memory seats
Automatic mirrors
DID NOT WANT TO PAY FOR:
Nav (I use Waze on Android Auto, Had Nav on the last SX V6, Waze is way better)
Sunroof (Had it on the last SX, used it once - the day I took delivery, I read the manual and tested it, Never used it again).
Aside from that, I have all the same stuff, leather, power seats, climate, XM Sirius etc.
I think the 2019 may have a few things not available in 2018, such as auto cruise and front collision, someone else will know that.
Just remember, there are different trim levels. When my car was hit, I rented a 2019 EX V6. NO leather, cheaper instrument cluster, no auto cruise, no front collision, a few other things were missing, but no big deal. Just find a car with the right package.
I don't see much difference between the drive, 6 VS 8 speed. Since I got the car back my mileage (local only) as been just awful, according to the lie-o-meter. Once I do a fillup and see the actual MPG I may have to take it in. I know they had to make computer changes at the collision shop since one of the sensors was replaced, so they may have reset something that needs changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I found a 18 SX Limited with fancy 360 camera, cooled seats (& heated 2nd row) with all safety stuff now standard on 2019, adjustable/tracking HID headlights (kind of a must for us) plus running boards & remote start (with remote bottom, not through app) with only 12K mi for $28k (Sticker on it was 47K). Private party is $32K & I feel it's a great deal. I understand the best value is EX V6, but small things matter as well, if priced fairly. As to transmission, I k ow warranty will take care of any problems, but I want to stay away from problems and unneeded dealer visits. Already had a bad experience with Volvo XC90 (too much time in shop for various issues) and after owning an RX for 6 yr problem-free, I am spoiled. Thanks for the input & hope this helps understand where I am coming from.
 

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Drive it at night. Sorento headlights SUCK. Some of us have seen great improvement with LED's, but I don't think you can convert the HID's
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Drive it at night. Sorento headlights SUCK. Some of us have seen great improvement with LED's, but I don't think you can convert the HID's
Why not? I have converted in other cars (might void the warranty). I did read here that in 2018 with HID & Dynamic Bending options are decent and can be adjusted.
 

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I find the HID's in my SXL to be entirely adequate.

12K mi for $28k is a right deal. Question: Is this being offered under the Kia CPO program or not?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I find the HID's in my SXL to be entirely adequate.

12K mi for $28k is a right deal. Question: Is this being offered under the Kia CPO program or not?
No, this is a private party listing with remaining full warranty. Why would I want a CPO? Thanks for the info on headlights.
Any advice or opinion re: transmission or towing?
 

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No, this is a private party listing with remaining full warranty. Why would I want a CPO? Thanks for the info on headlights.
Any advice or opinion re: transmission or towing?
In the USA power-train warranty on non-original owner cars (used cars) drops from 10 year/100Kmiles to 10/60K . A used vehicle purchased under CPO from a dealer will retain the 10/100 . See page 4 of this link https://www.kia.com/us/content/dam/kia/us/en/images/warranty/manual/general-warranty-and-consumer-info/2018_warranty.pdf
 

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No, this is a private party listing with remaining full warranty. Why would I want a CPO? Thanks for the info on headlights.
Any advice or opinion re: transmission or towing?
Because as the 2nd owner, and without CPO, you lose the 10/100K powertrain warranty, and everything reverts (unlike post above) to the basic 5/60K warranty (not 10/60K). He's right about the CPO, though. You pick up the 10/100K powertrain as though you were the original owner, though they do handle it through a 3rd party outfit.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I did some research and apparently Kia uses Fidelity for the 3rd party warranty handling. Quick google search brought up many mostly negative reviews including from various Kia customers. Is this really that important? There is a $50 deductible as well, which normal manufacturer's extended warranties normally don't have. When I questioned Fidelity's reputation, the sale rep stated he can change it to Portfolio which is better. Is it true and what is the preference? I don't really trust these 3rd party service contracts, seems like this one is just being masked under Kia's reputation. Thanks for all your advice folks. I really appreciate it.
 

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Gotta buy my next car in NYC! Here, even with substantial incentives, it would be about $8000 more ($36000) for a fully loaded '19 SX as the OP described the '18 he found.
 

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Gotta buy my next car in NYC! Here, even with substantial incentives, it would be about $8000 more ($36000) for a fully loaded '19 SX as the OP described the '18 he found.
BUT, unless he is paying cash, factory money is always cheaper. So the payments will be similar. AND, more stuff was probably standard on the 2019, so it may not be that much.
 

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Be aware of prepayment and origination fees with Kia Motor Finance.
Then again, showing up with your DD-214 in hand can help.
The bigger thing lately is 'lease cash', but we don't know for sure if the OP plans to buy or lease.
 

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There is no origination fee. A lease can not be bought out, however NYS law limits pre-payment penalties on loans.
There is a turn in fee of $400 at the end if you do not get another Kia. However there is a good damage allowance on lease returns.
Turned in my daughters Santa Fe. It had damage on all four corners. Body shop estimate was $2300 to clean it up. My out of pocket was $450.
 

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After you brought up the subject of "factory money", I mentioned both origination fees and prepayment, and I assumed we understood that referred to a purchase, not a lease. I can't come up with a scenario where someone would prepay a lease.

Have never been in a position to even consider a lease. Too many miles per year.

Never liked the typically stuctured deal on auto leases much except when they were deductible for tax purposes. If you come in under the base lease mileage, you're hosed for the cost of the miles you didn't use, and if you come in over the base lease mileage without purchasing additional miles, the $/mile is usually pretty brutal. Sometimes so much so that a buy-out may be more practical.
 

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That is really a lack of understanding.
FIRST of all, if you do too many miles, a lease is probably a bad idea (normally you can take up to 15K miles per year. Deals can be structured for more miles by paying upfront).
Second: leasing is just a form of financing. When you buy, you assume all the risk of depreciation. When you lease, Kia assumes all the risk of depreciation beyond the "buyout" in the lease. Of course, if the car depreciates less, they make the money,
But in the end, the high miles aside, buying or leasing pretty much is a wash - the cost of the use of the car for the agreed time is about the same, but the monthly payment is MUCH lower. Because all you are paying is the agreed depreciation for three years, plus interest on the total, which is often between 0% and 1.9%

Kia/Hyundai are very very liberal with their buyback amounts, often well above what you would think would be the market for a three year old vehicle. That means it will cost you a ton to buy it at the end, but it also means they have very aggressive (low) lease rates.

They normally just take the returned car to auction, and eat any difference. Which should tell you just how much they make on the sale of each car.

I have been happily leasing since 1983. The one car I bought at the end turned out to be a big mistake, Never again. New car, three years warranty, no expense besides possibly tires/brakes. just give it back. Don't even pay for oil changes.

Again, you can't look at it as a "rental" where you lose money for not "owning" the car. If you pay $300 a month, that is a total cost of $10,800 to drive the car for three years. If it was a $30K car, after three years it is worth more than $20K? Because if not, you make out like a bandit. You would have paid $883 a month for 36 months, for a total of $31,800. IF the car is worth $18000 after three years, you paid $13,800 for the use of the car for the three years. This is assuming bank financing of around 12%.
See how that works?
 

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Yes, I definitely see how that works, and is why I noted that "Have never been in a position to even consider a lease. Too many miles per year." I tend to run about 24K miles per year, and so the additional miles I would have to buy would be substantial. I agree, therefore, that "if you do too many miles, a lease is probably a bad idea." So for my case, I'm not sure we're thinking differently here. I've run the numbers each time.

As an aside, however -- "This is assuming bank financing of around 12%." Not unless your credit score is in the tank. Not even close. Not even for a used vehicle.
 

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Yes, I definitely see how that works, and is why I noted that "Have never been in a position to even consider a lease. Too many miles per year." I tend to run about 24K miles per year, and so the additional miles I would have to buy would be substantial. I agree, therefore, that "if you do too many miles, a lease is probably a bad idea." So for my case, I'm not sure we're thinking differently here. I've run the numbers each time.

As an aside, however -- "This is assuming bank financing of around 12%." Not unless your credit score is in the tank. Not even close. Not even for a used vehicle.
I have not taken a car loan since 1983, so I have no direct experience. But when using factory money the rates are generally very good. During the recession I was steered to US Bank by a Dodge dealer, their rate was like 12-13%. NO THANKS. I got a Honda accord at what was then an excellent rate.
 
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