What happens if you never drive in ECO? ECO doesn't do practically anything -- it's really just a marketing gimmick and won't effect mileage at all. If this doesn't happen in NORMAL mode, then it is the ECU programming that is at fault. ECO tries to lug the engine and if there is any wheel slippage, it will automatically upshift and raise the rpm's. Some of us have tested ECO and found that it delivers no better mileage than NORMAL. I'm pretty sure it doesn't go "all of the way up", but it might go from 1200 rpm's to 4000 rpm's and that may sound like it does.We've got a new? or maybe not new issue? The car spends most of it's life in ECO (unless I'm driving) When cruising or accelerating moderately, the engine will rev briefly all the way to red line and then settle back down. I haven't witnessed it and asked the condition of the roads (maybe losing traction?) and if it really went all the way to redline or was just slipping (as they do a little first thing to warm up the trans) and she said it goes "all the way up". It's very similar to the original issue BEFORE it would shut down and start flashing the check engine light.
Something isn't right with this car, she doesn't drive hard so I don't believe she's actually accelerating all the way to redline and the fact that it happens while cruising is very odd. Almost as if the trans disengages or goes to neutral for a brief time. Also we've noticed the fuel mileage has increased considerably since the last "recall of the recall". Last years winter L/100 was about 9.5-10 and this winter it's 11.5-12. I understand there are a lot of factors at play but there's something f*cky (trailer park boys reference)
|0x02||Freeze frame DTC||P1326|
|0x03||Fuel system 1 status||2|
|0x03||Fuel system 2 status||0|
|0x04||Calculated load value||46.27||%|
|0x05||Engine coolant temperature||84||C|
|0x06||Short term fuel % trim - Bank 1||3.12||%|
|0x07||Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1||-2.34||%|
|0x0B||Intake manifold absolute pressure||8.41||psi|
|0x0E||Ignition timing advance for #1 cylinder||33.5||deg|
|0x0F||Intake air temperature||3||C|
|0x11||Absolute throttle position||23.92||%|
|0x1F||Time since engine start||848||sec|
|0x2E||Commanded evaporative purge||0||%|
|0x2F||Fuel level input||42.75||%|
|0x42||Control module voltage||14.58||V|
|0x43||Absolute load value||47.06||%|
|0x44||Fuel/Air commanded equivalence ratio||1|
|0x45||Relative throttle position||16.08||%|
|0x46||Ambient air temperature||-3||C|
|0x47||Absolute throttle position B||23.53||%|
|0x49||Accelerator pedal position D||14.9||%|
|0x4A||Accelerator pedal position E||14.9||%|
|0x4C||Commanded throttle actuator control||18.43||%|
|0x59||Fuel rail pressure (absolute)||2828.24||psi|
It's nothing but a waste of your time to try diagnosing this code. The P1326 is what the ECM sets when the knock sensor sends a voltage pattern that it identifies to be harmful knock. The noise may be actual knocking, or it could also be just another false positive, but there is no way to determine that from freeze frame (or any other ODB data either).Code is P1326 …
My wife's mother got her a brand new 2018 Escape in January and we found out this summer that all the 1.5 turbo engines have a design flaw and eventually they will all blow a head gasket so much for the escapes. Also I don't like the car, I like my 2017 Sportage way better. All the computer displays are much more user-friendly in my opinion. I would have rather she got a Sportage but that's a long story.It’s such a weird feeling. I was happy to finally have one vehicle with warranty that I knew I wouldn’t have to mess with and yet it’s the one we have had the most issues with that I can’t mess with.
I’ve got a 2013 Focus ST and a 2013 F150. Zero issues with 140k and 180k with just oil changes, brakes and a water pump on the F150 which took me all of 1hr to change.
I broke down and let her pick the Sportage over the Escape as the price was better. Man, am I regretting not holding my ground.
Is that the Ford product with the motors WATER PUMP mounted INTERNALLY in the OIL PAN????My wife's mother got her a brand new 2018 Escape in January and we found out this summer that all the 1.5 turbo engines have a design flaw and eventually they will all blow a head gasket so much for the escapes. Also I don't like the car, I like my 2017 Sportage way better. All the computer displays are much more user-friendly in my opinion. I would have rather she got a Sportage but that's a long story.
I don't know which product you're talking about but the design flaw is between the cylinders. The surface area of the block around the cylinders and between them is too small so that head gaskets are eventually blowing through.Is that the Ford product with the motors WATER PUMP mounted INTERNALLY in the OIL PAN????
There was a recent big news story of one of the Ford SUV types having a particular motor design of what I posted of. Just have not researched it out as I don't have a Ford product, and have not had in a long time. It would not surprise me to hear of this latest snafu from Ford either. Around here, a lot of the 2012-2015 Escapes were also known to rot out the rear unibody to rear strut area....NY RUST GREMLINS....I don't know which product you're talking about but the design flaw is between the cylinders. The surface area of the block around the cylinders and between them is too small so that head gaskets are eventually blowing through.
Good to hear.Car is back, working normally again.
We are very lucky to have the service centre that we have. The dealer detailed the car inside and out and replaced the fuel that was used during the test drives. Nothing but good things to say about our service centre.
Finger crossed I don't need to come back to this forum.