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2012 Sportage SX CDN
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After finishing a long winding decent ( over an hour ). I noticed that there was quite a bit of disk rotor wobble. I assumed crappy rotors that had warped under the heat of the decent. No trailer or other weight was in the car. The next day I was surprised to find the brake wobble gone. I am assuming once the rotor cooled down it straightened out. Fine, but indications of poor braking performance..

Has anyone else had this experience ?

Does this sound consistent with brakes that need better cooling, or just crappy materials in the rotor ?

Does anyone know of an upgraded rotor ?

I also noticed that the 2013 looked like it might get ventilated rotors, indications of others having the same issues ?
 

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2012 Sportage SX FWD
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this doesn't sound like poor brake performance. Did they fade? Did they cut out or lock down? Poor brake performance is characterized by increased stopping distance or lack of control. Did those things change? No? Then it's not poor brake performance, it's poor driver performance. If so, then maybe you did more damage to your brakes than you first thought. You probably did take some life out of them and coated your wheels in dust. FYI, they are a pain in the ass to get clean (i mean really clean, not spray and rinse clean).

ok, so i'm just gonna assume that you coasted on your brakes the whole way down w/ the trans in D. this was not a good idea and is definitely mentioned as "things not to do with your vehicle" in the owners manual.

Yes, you warped your rotors by overheating them. Lucky you, they cooled back to normal (or close enough), instead of staying warped (or AS warped). No they are not cheap garbage that sucks. Even if you got an upgraded rotor, it would still get warped. And then you would have to get new pads, possibly a new caliper, and possibly new brakelines/pump. This is not a path you need to go down.

What you should have done after you realized you would be needing to coast downhill for a bit is put your car in 2 or 3rd gear. "How do i do that, this thing only has PRND?" Your car has sportmatic transmission, put it in that after you put it in D, and then only shift to 2 or 3. or if it's already in (forward) gear, engage sportmatic, downshift to 3 or 2.

As an additional exercise to protect your engine from possible knocking, try to keep the revs at around 2000rpm or no lower than the regular, warmed-up idle speed. Do not shift into neutral or switch off the ignition, these could create an unsafe situation by limiting your control.
 

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2013 Sportage LX w/ Convenience Pkg
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this doesn't sound like poor brake performance. Did they fade? Did they cut out or lock down? Poor brake performance is characterized by increased stopping distance or lack of control. Did those things change? No? Then it's not poor brake performance, it's poor driver performance. If so, then maybe you did more damage to your brakes than you first thought. You probably did take some life out of them and coated your wheels in dust. FYI, they are a pain in the ass to get clean (i mean really clean, not spray and rinse clean).

ok, so i'm just gonna assume that you coasted on your brakes the whole way down w/ the trans in D. this was not a good idea and is definitely mentioned as "things not to do with your vehicle" in the owners manual.

Yes, you warped your rotors by overheating them. Lucky you, they cooled back to normal (or close enough), instead of staying warped (or AS warped). No they are not cheap garbage that sucks. Even if you got an upgraded rotor, it would still get warped. And then you would have to get new pads, possibly a new caliper, and possibly new brakelines/pump. This is not a path you need to go down.

What you should have done after you realized you would be needing to coast downhill for a bit is put your car in 2 or 3rd gear. "How do i do that, this thing only has PRND?" Your car has sportmatic transmission, put it in that after you put it in D, and then only shift to 2 or 3. or if it's already in (forward) gear, engage sportmatic, downshift to 3 or 2.

As an additional exercise to protect your engine from possible knocking, try to keep the revs at around 2000rpm or no lower than the regular, warmed-up idle speed. Do not shift into neutral or switch off the ignition, these could create an unsafe situation by limiting your control.

A little rough on the poor guy, but you are correct in everything you say. my 2013 model has downhill assist and has an abs "auto brake" that distributes quick braking across all 4 wheels to maintain a constant speed without overheating the brakes. I find it useless in my area, but keeping your trans in gear 2 or 3 like cloud9utk said is going to be your best defense if you ever have to make that downhill ever again.
 

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My M3 would 'fake' warped brakes if driven enthusiastically ...

You could see areas of pad material deposited on the disk, kind of like a different colour shade.

It would brake noisily the next day for a bit and would then be fine.

Brakes, disks, calipers were all standard BMW M fitment, all serviced and maintained by BMW.

WD :D
 

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2011 KIA Sportage SX, 2016 Ford Focus RS
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I bet everybody behind you smelled burning brakes too! But most people don't realize they need to downshift their automatic transmission so they were all burning their brakes the same.
 

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2011 Sportage, 2007 GTI, 2000 Firehawk
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Another thing to check is that all of your lugnuts are torqued down evenly to proper specs.
 

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2012 Sportage SX CDN
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am a very experienced all weather/terrain driver. Several high performance school certs to my name. I consider anything beyond feathering the brake under normal driving conditions to be a failure to predict your driving environment. To summarize I never ride the brake, always use engine braking where appropriate.

However this is the first manu-matic I have owned as all priors have been manual transmission. So I am more cautious with engine braking boosting engine RPM as I do not fully understand the impact of engine braking on a lock-up torque converters and an automatic transmission, not to mention a T-GDI power plant. Unlike a manual gear box where you can bring up the revs during engine braking more smoothly between gears. Brake Pad and Rotors are cheap.....

Brakes showed no great accumulation of dust and the last service at 20,000Km showed 85% on the Front and 90% on the Rear Pads.
 

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2011 KIA Sportage SX, 2016 Ford Focus RS
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I consider anything beyond feathering the brake under normal driving conditions to be a failure to predict your driving environment.
Yes!!!! Very good way to put it. I have personally never worn out a set of brake pads. Never worn out a clutch from engine braking either other than exploding one.
 

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2012 Sportage SX CDN
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the feedback on the M3 braking and 'even' torque on the rotors. I had the wheels rotated shortly before that road trip, so I wonder if they cut corners. Still curious to see if there are any others out there, and if the 2013s are showing up with drilled rotors.
 

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I consider anything beyond feathering the brake under normal driving conditions to be a failure to predict your driving environment.
A failure to predict, yes, but I'd like to note the randomness and occasional unpredictability of a public-road environment.

When I joined here, I posted some research on the brakes. I found the OEM pads were incredibly inexpensive Chinese parts, but not bad. I found replacement pads, but couldn't find upgraded rotors.

IIRC my choice was Yellowstuff pads. They'll squeal and dust more, but they'll stop faster, appealing to my desire for safety and performance. I'm told they have "a huge heat range".

After finishing a long winding decent ( over an hour ).
Before driving that road again. Try and find a place to stop and let the brakes cool. Spending over an hour braking could overheat any system. I'm guessing it was driving back from Lake Louise?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Close , same mountain range just farther south, the Cascades. Thanks for the 'pad' info. I too will spare no expense on brakes and rubber, as it always works out to be more cost effective than an insurance claim :)

I find a day at the track is the best break-in ( after 5000k of course ) you can offer a car, it really brings out the strengths and weaknesses you can find out in 'controlled' conditions. I highly recommend it for any new car buyer, and once again cheaper than the insurance claim ;)

Thanks for the feedback folks...getting my wheels re-torqued ( while I watch ) on Friday.
 

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If you guys are looking for upgraded rotors, I just got in some new parts numbers for the 2011+ Kia rotors. Shoot me a PM for some pricing or you can click on the link on my sig to go straight to my part section. (not all parts are available for all models yet)

Thank you.
 
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