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2012 Kia Sportage
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3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am wondering if someone has a tutorial on replacing the rear brakes, specifically rotors and pads? I am looking to complete the job this week on my car. I did the front ones but have been told the rears are different. There has been mention of issues with the ebrake when trying to remove the rear rotors?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thank you,
 

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2014 Sportage LX M/T, 2013 Elantra Ltd
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74 Posts
Like you, I have done my front brakes but not the rear. However, I do know that the rear rotors have the emergency brake inside them on the back of the rotor. I would "assume" that you will have to make sure the e-brake is dis-engaged in order for the rotor to be removed. Much like drum brakes where you have the e-brake off in order for the drum to be removed. Lift one wheel at a time and make sure the front tires are both blocked from rotating. Good luck.
 

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2011 2.0L Diesel FWD Sportage
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8 Posts
I am wondering if someone has a tutorial on replacing the rear brakes, specifically rotors and pads? I am looking to complete the job this week on my car. I did the front ones but have been told the rears are different. There has been mention of issues with the ebrake when trying to remove the rear rotors?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thank you,
The ebrake must be released for any work to be done on pads/rotors. The procedure is the same as for any other vehicle.
 

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2014 Sportage SX (AWD) - White
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217 Posts
just like the fronts with the exception of the e-brake mechanism, so attack the problem the same way. don't forget to remove the screws that hold the rotor onto the hub... made a real big idiot of myself the first time... couldn't figure out why the hell the rotors would budge lol. otherwise they are real easy to do on these. don't over-complicate it and don't be scurrd. :)
 

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2012 Kia Sportage EX, 2015 Kia Optima EX, both black
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15 Posts
I am stating that the Rears are NOT for a DIY (2012). I replaced the front rotors/pads last year, easy- hardest part is not stripping the useless screws that hold the rotors on. Went to do the rears this year and was dumbfounded when I saw the break mount totally in the way and not removable without being a mechanic. I just took another crack at it and it looks like you have to remove TWO of the suspension arms/bolts just to get at the second bolt holding in the break mount. I was able to partially remove the first that covers up the bolt you need to get at - but you cant remove the bolt all the way to remove the suspension bar because the bolt runs into the black cylinder that goes up and down, and cant come all the way out because of that - so I think that one ALSO has to be disconnected. The bolt/nut on that up/down cylinder guy is just not something you can get at with your standard ratchet set.

Is there some other way or should I find a pro who will just charge labor and use the new rotors/pads that I got from rockauto? Guess as to a fair charge for that?
 

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2012 Kia Sportage EX, 2015 Kia Optima EX, both black
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15 Posts
Update a couple hours later (craigslist is great)

Found a local mechanic who didn't care to do it late at night right away - I was fine waiting til wednesday - so I'll be keeping this guys #.

So you don't have to completely disconnect the strut to get that bolt out, just have to loosen its bolt and nut. That gives enough "play" to tap out the other brace's bolt out and back in. That arm needs to have its other end loosened too though to lower it enough to get out of the way.

Was worth paying someone to do it - he had the right socket sets with adjustable parts to get in the right areas and to get the right leverage to do it. $150, and all it took was an hour and a half (including time for replacing the rotors and pads with the ones I bought)
 

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Kia Rio, 2016, EX trim
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3 Posts
On the off chance someone reads this in the future and wants to do it at home, the solution for me to do the job without removing the suspension arm was an offset wrench.

On my Sportage 2013:
size 14mm, 45° offset was plenty. Used a cheapo set from princess auto and had no issue fitting into place.

You can only turn a few degrees everytime so it will take some time but oncethe bolt backs enough you can switch to a normal closed end (could be ratcheting) to finish the job faster.

To put it back in place, I threaded it a couple turns by hand, did the max I could do with a normal wrench and finished it with the offset one.

hope this helps
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood
 

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Sportage LX AWD 2014, Forte LX+ 2014
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868 Posts
'12 should be similar to '14 and I had no issues changing front and rear pads on mine.
I didn't do rotors yet as they are in good shape and changing pads early with 48K km (30K mi) on the originals let me keep rotors in good shape. I'm at 106K km (66K mi) now and rotors are still in good shape.
Front rotors are easy. Rears need parking brake off and to align service hole in the disk with adjuster 'star' on parking brake mech to back it out so you can remove rotor. Then when you put new rotor on you need to tighten the adjuster again but so that brake shoes inside rotor don't drug when parking brake isn't on and grip when it's on. There are YT videos out there, just search, I remember seen one or two.
 
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