Kia Forum banner

2011 Sedona transmission fluid change

22K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  SquireSupersonic  
#1 · (Edited)
First off, if you are short on patience I don't recommend you tackle this job. The filling part thru the vent port will drive you mad.

I changed the trans fluid in my '11 Sedona today, fairly straightforward job. You need a 24mm socket or 15/16" socket for the drain and level check plugs. A wrench works better for the level check plug if you don't want to take off the lower cover like me. You also need a drain pan that can hold at least 6 quarts or more. You also need a 22mm or 7/8" socket for the vent fill port bolt.

Van must be level for this job.

Put the drain pan under the trans drain plug. Remove the 24mm drain plug on the bottom of the trans, it's got a thin head.
117168


Drain the trans. You won't get all the fluid out, only about 5 quarts (exactly 5 quarts in my case). I waited 15 min. for it to drain. I used Valvoline MaxLife synthetic fluid. BTW, it stinks something awful too.

Clean the drain plug off (it's magnetic) and put it back in and tighten, I used 30 ft lbs on mine with a torque wrench. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Steel plug threads, aluminum case. The case threads will tear out if you overdo it. Replace the gasket if it looks messed up. My plug was pretty clean and had very little material on it for 188K miles.

Remove the level check plug on the pan, it's a 24mm also. Leave it out for now.

117169


Up top you'll need to remove the 22mm (7/8") bolt on top of the pan where the vent hose is. To get to it you'll need to remove the bracket that covers it, the bolt is a 10mm. I also wound up disconnecting the battery and moving the positive cable out of the way for better access. Now, the 22mm bolt is right up against the gear selection switch, I could not get a socket directly on it, and I was not willing to gamble on removing a 10 yr old electrical component and hoping it didn't crack or break. So, I used a socket at an angle on the bolt and was able to break it loose. Remove the bolt and set it aside. It has a copper gasket on it that I replaced.

117167


You'll now need to use a very narrow funnel to fill the trans from the top thru the vent port. This is the not so fun part. Put the drain pan back under the van also if you pulled it out, you are gonna get spillage.

Begin SLOWLY filling the trans with the fresh fluid. If you try and fill the funnel you WILL GET FLUID PUKING OUT THE VENT HOSE unless you clamp it off. The hole that the fluid has to take into the trans is only about as wide as a pencil. You cannot rush this part. After about two and a half or three quarts are put in fluid will start running out of the fill check plug hole in a steady stream/drip. Put the plug back in at this point to finish filling the trans. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. You will have to go very, very, very slowly now as the fluid going in and air coming out are using the same path, which means air is gonna burp thru the funnel and fluid. NOTE: Fluid will spit out the level check hole if you try and fill too fast also. Go slow...

After getting all the fluid in put the vent port bolt back in and tighten LIGHTLY. Don't go all gorilla on this bolt or you will jack up the pan.

Start your van and check reverse and drive. They should work.

You're done at this point unless you want to warm up the trans and then pull the level check plug to check fluid level. I did not. Five quarts came out, five quarts went in, good enough for my ride.

Another alternate method is to fill thru the level check hole with the van front end elevated but that's a whole 'nuther pain in the a$$...

I don't know what KIA engineer designed this drain/fill setup but they should be flogged for doing it this way.
 
#2 ·
I come from the Hyundai side but it's all generic for the A6 family of boxes. I have 3 vehicles with this style and recently did a trans swap / repair refilling these several times learnt a couple of things.

Inside that fill / vent port there's a baffle, that slows things down,then the pressure builds internally and can't vent = that mess you talk about trying to go at any pace.

I found I could leave that level plug out and that will aid venting and speed it up. This could vary depending on trans size but I could get close to 4 litres in before it started to escape so that sped it up. This was an A6LF2 AWD box. Also Another occasion I had the cooler lines off at the box end, that also allowed venting and sped it up.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Usually the check is with the engine running and up to temp. I used a large empty translucent bottle to dump all the old fluid into and marked on the side where the level was. I then drained the bottle, cleaned it out, and filled with fresh fluid up to the mark I made. QED.
 
#5 ·
First off, if you are short on patience I don't recommend you tackle this job. The filling part thru the vent port will drive you mad.

Clean the drain plug off (it's magnetic) and put it back in and tighten, I used 30 ft lbs on mine with a torque wrench. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Steel plug threads, aluminum case. The case threads will tear out if you overdo it. Replace the gasket if it looks messed up. My plug was pretty clean and had very little material on it for 188K miles.

(instructions)

Remove the bolt and set it aside. It has a copper gasket on it that I replaced.
(instructions)

Five quarts came out, five quarts went in, good enough for my ride.
Great stuff! I plan on doing a few drain and fills in the coming weeks. Do you have the part numbers handy for the gaskets that may need to be replaced?

Thanks again for the great go-by.

Jason
2011 Kia Sedona LX
 
#6 · (Edited)
The KIA part is (21513-23001).

I just used generic aluminum ones I had left over from my motorcycling days. You can buy them usually at any auto parts store or a motorcycle shop. If you wanna get fancy and use the copper crush washers you can order them from Belmetric.com. You order by thread diameter, not the bolt head diameter.

Copper hollow crush washers
 
#7 ·
Just wish to add link to how I did the fluid exchange. I got a 2012 Sedona about 3 weeks ago so I am new to the Kia world and will need some time to get up to speed. I've originally posted this on Bob Is The Oil Guy forum, which is another good resource;
Transmission Fluid Change and cooler line exchange.
2012 Kia Sedona 3.5L with 6 speed Automatic, just did this and I'll post some links and paste the most prominent paragraph as you may not want to read my other ramblings;
The transmission fluid exchange.
Some of the guidance I used were found here, scroll down for the links;
Kia Sorento Maintenance - "Most are for the 3.5L V6 and some are for the 2.4L 4 cylinder. In addition, the 3.5L V6 used in our Sorentos has also been used in some Hyundai Santa Fe models as well as some Kia Sedona models and so some videos may be for those vehicles but still apply to our Sorentos."
Here's the post where I found the basic instructions on how to fill the transmission. I opted to fill at the 'check plug' point too, from above with the funnel;

Fill plug was a 24mm plug so I didn't have to use the vent, I just funneled a 3/8 tube into it, then took off the expected outlet line the one to the right as you face the motor/trans, had a connector from Dorman 030-496 kit to connect it, then after spilling some fluid had to plug the trans end with an orange ear plug, the line leaked also as I ran the motor but the bigger volume was coming out the connection as expected and hoped... I have an ear plug example in the picture. Use the long handle curved needle nose pliers to get the clamp backed off worked great just had to position it a little more toward the access point, the wires present pushed aside easily for access point to remove the clamp and I didn't remove the battery as others reported doing.

I'll add the last photo where I claim to have 'captured it all' for those who like me want it all including the punch-line for brevity's sake...the fluid in the tube was just short of being clean so I had to step out and get another jug of trans fluid at that point, fairly generous room to work in, basically, you're looking toward the side of the battery box and under it, the pliers is a long handle curved needle nose;

20210703_152327.jpg


And the last short rambling of a new (used) Kia owner who is so far happy and enthusiastic about said purchase;

"you can just see the ear plug that is in the transmission inlet line in-between the right of the pliers and where the white connector is. The red is the funnel and tube. Basically this is the whole set-up, that simple with the drain plug at the bottom, also a 24mm."