Kia Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
08 Sorento 4WD
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My 2008 sorento has been running fine but yesterday I shut it off and returned 1 1/2 hours later to find that it will not start. It hardly even gives a click and all lights black out when trying to start. I am having trouble finding the location of the starter, I thought maybe tapping it will dislodge/help engage it. I have tested the battery and it seems fine. It is < 1yr old. I have tried using a booster pack and it still gives me the same problem. Please help. Diagrams?
 

·
Super Moderator
2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
Joined
·
6,928 Posts
You said.."It hardly even gives a click and all lights black out when trying to start." That indicates that you have a bad connection (high resistance) that is giving you a voltage drop across it (lights dimming or going totally out).
Have you removed the battery connections and cleaned them?
Follow the negative terminal wire from the battery to where it connects to the body of the car and remove/clean/reinstall that end. the should be a heavy red wire going to the fuse box under the hood. Check that connection at the fuse box..There should be a high current fuse (80~120amp) there. Check to make sure the bolts that hold that fuse are clean and tight. Check the MAIN relay..
Some ideas to look at...
Dave
 

·
Registered
08 Sorento 4WD
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I removed the battery cleaned the terminals and connectors. I have checked the grounding wires to the body. I will check the High Current fuse and main relay tomorrow. What is troubling me is the fact that it just happened at a snap of a finger no prior trouble or anything. Could it be a starter issue or most likely the relay/voltage drop?
 

·
Registered
10 Optima LX, 07 Rondo EX, 89 Chevy C1500
Joined
·
1,410 Posts
+1 on what DavesSpectra said. I would also check the connection at the starter to see if it is getting power and it making good contact. Does it have a Kia remote starter installed?

Where at in Saskatchewan? I have cousins up that way.
 

·
Registered
08 Sorento 4WD
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I can't seem to track down the location of the starter. I know that sound dumb, I know what the starter looks like as I have done work on vehicles before but I can't seem to find it on here.

There is no remote start on it.

I am about 1 1/2 hours from Regina.
 

·
Super Moderator
2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
Joined
·
6,928 Posts
A bad starter would dim the lights BUT should not knock them out. (high current draw)....That should blow the starter fuse with that much current flowing...
Sounds more like a bad connection at the battery causing the voltage to drop.
New battery gone bad? (high internal resistance). Try jumping from a known good car with Heavy Duty jumper cables...If it starts then probably battery.
I base this on the "other" items going dim/down when a HEAVY load (starter) is put across the battery.
Dave
 

·
Registered
10 Optima LX, 07 Rondo EX, 89 Chevy C1500
Joined
·
1,410 Posts
I can't seem to track down the location of the starter. I know that sound dumb, I know what the starter looks like as I have done work on vehicles before but I can't seem to find it on here.

There is no remote start on it.

I am about 1 1/2 from Regina.
Drivers side of the engine.
 

·
Registered
06 Sedona LX, 06 Sedona EX, 14 Forte EX, 11 Sportage EX, 11 Forte 5-door SX, 15 K900 VIP+
Joined
·
1,143 Posts
The starter I believe is on the LH (Driver's Side) of the block, where the block comes together with the transmission. It will be behind the exhaust manifold and a heat shield. It is held in by four bolts. Note that in the illustration, the front muffler has been removed.
 

·
Registered
08 Sorento 4WD
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Well I got under there and banged on the starter, put booster pack on and it started. Must have been an issue with the starter not engaging. Well now to see if it keeps it up.

Thanks for the help guys.
 

·
Super Moderator
2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
Joined
·
6,928 Posts
Well guy...
You should have told us the outside temp (-19F)...
I see on IRT (ice road truckers) they park their rigs and keep them running otherwise they won't get them running again until they pull them into a garage and warm them up...
The booster and the battery gave you just enough current to pull the starter solenoid in... In those temps I'd be thinking of adding a second battery in the back and heavy wires connected in parallel across the primary battery.
Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
starting issue

when i lived in north dakota, i instilled a freeze plug heater in my '68
cougar. this was 1978 - the cougar started up like it was 70 degrees -
although the temperature was 10 to 20 below zero;
best idea for the cold country
 

·
Registered
08 Sorento 4WD
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Well that didnt last long. I went and put gas in and the dang thing wouldnt start at the pump. Now it gives me nothing, it is as if I don't even have a battery hooked up to it. No lights , no click can't even lock or unlock the doors. Do they have a built in disabler or something that would kill all power to everything?
 

·
Registered
I now drive a 2003 S-10 Had an 03 LX 3.5 Sorento
Joined
·
2,483 Posts
Under the hood on the inside passenger side fender, there is a fuel cut off switch. It may do what you describe but I don't know if it is a total kill switch. It is located under a small rubber boot. Press it. If it clicks then you reset it. If not you are back to square one.
 

·
Registered
08 Sorento 4WD
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
do they reset themselves. I havent touched it yet but I have power now but just clicking for the starter. Frozen condensation in the starter?
 

·
Super Moderator
2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
Joined
·
6,928 Posts
You said "Now it gives me nothing, it is as if I don't even have a battery hooked up to it. No lights , no click can't even lock or unlock the doors"
That's a bad "main" connection and it's more than likely one caused by corrosion (intermittent connections that vibration (or drying out) may temporary cure). The accident "kill switch" is made to disable the fuel pump and won't effect the lights, radio, heater blower motor, etc...

I'm a retired (forced) electronic tech and attack electronic problems via a logical approach ..

You said that you checked the heavy wires at the battery and from it also to the frame/body and the positive lead(s) at the under hood fuse box...I still believe that's where you will find the problems.

The MAIN relay won't kill the door locks (controlled by the BCM). The BCM needs +12v and ground to operate and both are wired without any switches to stay powered ON with the car ignition OFF (you UNLOCK the car with Ignition off)... You have a "supply" problem and the main supply passes through the body grounds and the fuse boxes (under hood and in the passenger compartment). You might want to remove the plastic kick panel by your left foot under the dash as that's where most of the battery power feeds through from the engine compartment. Water/Corrosion on any of these main connectors can/will cause problems also...
Hope you find your problem...
Dave
 

·
Registered
08 Sorento 4WD
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Ok about the temperature that is not the norm here ( it is usually quite chilly but not this much) but it is about 25 F today and I have a heater under the hood. All I am getting is the clicking now. I have lived in Sask and Manitoba all my life and am used to these temps I have never had to use a second battery and I have had some larger vehicles. I always plug my vehicles in and have not had problems like this before.
 

·
Super Moderator
2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
Joined
·
6,928 Posts
A quick road map of the wiring..
From the battery (+) post to the under hood fuse box to a large 80~120AMP fuse and also to the starter motor (heavy cable)..
From the large fuse to
1 The smaller fuses in that under hood fuse box
2 To the inside cab fuse panel and more smaller fuses feeding the ignition switch, BCM,ECM,TCM.
The voltage is not getting past one of these points...

A "law" of electronics is "in order for current to flow you need a complete circuit loop.. Begining to end and back to begining.
Meaning both the HOT (+12v) and the ground/earth/body/return (ground) have to be good.If either has a problem (high resistance to high current in your case) no current will flow. The lights (or accessories) going totally out at times is showing a bad connection.

The BCM runs the door locks,window up/down motors, inside dome lights,turn signals,etc...so if it doesn't have voltage present (both +12v AND a good ground return/wire none of these items won't work.

Think of your cars power system as your main breaker panel at your home...
ONE BIG FEED (at the MAIN Breaker) into the panel and a bunch of smaller feeds off of the 15/20 amp breakers...If the MAIN FEED or BREAKER (100/150/200 amp) fails then no power to anywhere in the house.

This equates to the car's battery (main power source), the main feed (HEAVY WIRES) to fuse box and ground... The 80~120A fuse(car) = breaker panel MAIN (home). If either battery/heavy wires/or main fuse (80~120A) is bad...NO Voltage/Current anywhere in the car...

Next let's look at the house breakers...If one fails the rest of the house stays lit/on.... In the car the fuses act the same way...if one fails the rest of the circuits stay on...

You have a condition like this... house/main/breaker/AC outlet/extension cord/extension cord/extension cord... You can plug in anywhere in the chain of outlets on anywhere along the line(extension cord) and feed lights/motors/tv/radio. "if" you unplug an extension cord then anything after that unpluged cord will go dead..

A car is wired very similar... The BCM is like a "fused/breakered" extension cord with LOTS of things "plugged in".The many of the things you are say that are "out" during your intermittent times are coming off of the BCM...The BCM fuse (like house fuse) is probably OK sooo...it's farther back (after the main feed but before the BCM fuse.

Take a dc meter, connect negative to a known good ground and with the positive lead check both sides of the fuses.. You should have on most fuses +12v on both sides while the ignition is on..Some fuses in cars fuse the negative leg instead of the positive leg of the power so be aware of this fact... I would start looking at "common" fuses that have voltage present when the ignition is on like the "ROOM" fuse..You need to see if ANY voltage is present on ANY fuse for a start...
The fuses I bet will ALL be OK with the possible exception of the 80~120AMP fuse under the hood and then it may be a bad connection to this fuse. You will be using the fuse boxes as a "road map" as to what has voltage and what doesn't (bridge out or no bridge out)..There may be voltage present on the fuses UNTIL you try to start the car and the lights go out...So bumping the starter to cause the problem may be needed..

Get back to us on what you find (or don't find for that matter) and we can point you in the right direction.
Dave
 

·
Registered
08 Sorento 4WD
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Well all lights have been staying on as I have tried at the beginning of the week. As of Wednesday, it has started fine. I took it into a heated garage today and will leave it there for a day or so. Thinking it was a froze up area on the starter. Hopefully it will all melt off and will have no more problems.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top