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2007 Sedona - No charge, new alternator, battery good. Charging System diagrams? ECM pin layout?

6210 Views 11 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  cheepnis
Hi all;

Issue with the charging system, battery is good, new alternator, not charging.

Seemed to be intermittent before swapping in a new alt, but that may have just been when the battery was still fully charged, or on it's way down.

So I am at the point of trying to trace everything, and can't seem to find a decent diagram to tell me what the 2 pins in the 'A' connector are for, and where they go ...

Am I correct in assuming the ECM dictates when to apply a charge? I'd probably need to check continuity there as well, so knowing which pins do what on the ECM will be necessary.

Any way to just rig so it's always on? ECM is super expensive, and this baby just isn't worth it.

Any other ideas, input, greatly appreciated.

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.... not charging. ...
Is the dash charge light on? If not, then my first suspect would be a bad battery (yes, I did read that you said it was good). With the battery fully recharged, what is the static and running voltage at the battery?
Yes, dash charge light (and break light) are on.

Is on a trickle charge since last night, will test for the exact numbers in a bit.

Test right across the battery terminals?
Yes, test across the battery terminals. The charge light being on while running indicates something is wrong with the alt or one of its circuits. So disconnect the alt connector, start the engine, and test for voltage at the light blue wire at pin slot #2 of the alternator connector. Has the brake light been on ever since this problem started, and was it on before that as well?
Battery was 14.2 immediately after disconnecting the trickle charger, dropped to about 13.5 after a bit, seemed to stabilize there. 12.2 while running, 12.6 after a few starts and running a few minutes each time.

Couldn't tell which pin the blue wire aligned to, it's a 3 pin pigtail with 2 wires, white and blue. The center and the 'top' when connected to the alt are used. The 'top' was 11.8 and the center 11.6 while running ... I checked that a few times, and it was consistent. Both were 0 when off.

Brake light and charge light seem to come on at the same time, and from reading the forums that seems normal when there's a charging issue.
Neither were on during this go round, which is how it's been behaving, will probably come on as soon as the battery drops a bit.

Thanks for your help.
Let it run a while. lights, blower etc running, charge/brake light came on

Battery down to 7.7 while running, center 7.3, top 7.5.

Reconnected to alt, not charging, charge/brake light on, 7.7 accross battery and falling, ignition starting to falter.

Shut it down and reconnected the trickle charge.
Battery was 14.2 immediately after disconnecting the trickle charger, dropped to about 13.5 after a bit, seemed to stabilize there. ....
A battery should never charge to a static voltage of 14.2, or even 13.5. Somewhere between 12.5-12.7 should be the highest voltage at full charge, so I suspect this battery is shot. Try the trickle charge again and, after it's recharged, disconnect it from the vehicle and monitor the voltage. I suspect you will see it continue to drop down below 12.5 on its own.
Off the trickle for 3 hours ... 12.6, and then an hour later also 12.6.

Battery was also bench/load tested at AutoZone prior to all this, is only about 24 months old.
I guess I just didn't wait very long, after charging yesterday, trickle charger is 14.2, like I would expect the Alt to be when working.

Anyone with insight on what the pin readings should be?
I presume they are supposed to go back to the ECM, so diagrams and pin layouts would be helpful, as well as the expected readings.

Thanks again everyone.
The documentation I have for the 2007 Charging system, battery, and Alternator.


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The documentation I have for the 2007 ECM


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Thank you for these!
Hi everyone, just wanted to follow up, and report the conclusion.

First off, I think the initial intermittent condition was likely due to oil dripping onto the original alt, for probably years.

After replacing the alternator, it's possible I shorted the battery connection at some point, perhaps the disconnected ground cable had moved over to the post, when moving some stuff around.

But, even then I was getting battery voltage at the alternator end. I was testing some more, then noticed it wasn't getting battery voltage there. So I decided to look a bit more closely at the 150A fusible link, and it would wiggle, and cause the voltage to blink ... As I took it off the posts, it literally crumbled in my hand. Okay ... went searching, and it's not an easy find. BUT I noticed that it's pretty much exactly the same size these simple Volkswagon links, and you get a whole bunch! $5 at Advance and we're back in action!

Thanks @tad844 for the docs, I hadn't really thought to check that fuse specifically, since it 'looked' just fine, and I was getting battery voltage at the alternator. I think perhaps the design allowed it to be blown, but still wiggle and pass enough to power the multi-meter, but probably just burned away a little more any time the full amperage from the alt was applied.

You can see the new one installed just above the package.


Below is the crumbled remains, the 'body' was super brittle and loose, it was wiggling and that was apparently enough to make some light contact, and give me a false reading.

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