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2007 Kia Sedona EX, 1991 Toyota Pickup 4x4 Ext, multiple NA Miatas
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Discussion Starter #1
My family has been very happy with our '07 Sedona EX thus far. We bought it used in late 2011 with 55k miles. We now have about 72k miles and have had no major issues. It is much better than the '97 Chrysler T&C we had before. These forums sometimes makes it look like the Sedonas are plagued with problems, but in my case that isn't true. I would like a bit better mileage though--the thirsty (but pleasantly powerful) engine is probably my only warning to anyone considering a Kia van.

That said...

My van needs an alignment. One shop said that it "may have electronic steering assist" which means more work for a reset and an extra $40 charge. He said he wouldn't know until I bring it in, but I'm smart enough to do my own research. I likely won't take it to that shop. Does anyone know if the 2007 EX does in fact have electric steering assist? I found information saying both yes and no, so thought I would ask here. What have others experienced in getting alignment. The quote for 4-wheel is $83+tax.

Second, are these vans known to warp front rotors more easily than most other vehicles? Maybe the OEM rotors are on the thin side? Ours warped sometime last year. Turning was about the same as one rotor, so I opted for that, knowing that it would likely happen again. The shop said it was the last turn we could do, which suggested that they are either thin when new or the prior owners had turned them once or twice. I know most OEM rotors don't leave a lot of extra thickness, especially those on imported vehicles. Not surprisingly, they have become warped again. I have new rotors on order (Raybestos "Professional Grade" brand) and I'm hoping they'll be a little tougher.
 

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06 Sedona LX, 06 Sedona EX, 14 Forte EX, 11 Sportage EX, 11 Forte 5-door SX, 15 K900 VIP+
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First off, no, the Sedona does NOT have electric-assist steering. It is old-school hydraulic. Second, the ONLY adjustable alignment angle is toe. If caster or camber are off, you have a bent suspension component....which probably isn't likely. That being said, why do you feel you need an alignment? Is the van pulling pretty badly to one side or wearing tires? Have you hit a curb or large pothole? In 206k and 241k miles, neither of my 06 Sedonas have ever needed a toe adjustment. Just checked them both last month, everything is A-ok. With only 73k, if the van isn't pulling or wearing tires, I wouldn't worry about it.
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Lastly, yes, the rotors on these vans warp if you look at them funny.
 

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2011 Kia Sedona LX
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71 Posts
My van's front rotors were out of round at 46,000 miles. I know they also eat pads because the front pads weren't original when I replaced them and I bought my van with 27,600 miles on it. And I don't beat on my van, I drive it pretty sanely. That said, I have had cars that I have absolutely thrashed not need pads every 20,000 miles like this van does.
 

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2007 Kia Sedona EX, 1991 Toyota Pickup 4x4 Ext, multiple NA Miatas
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24 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Yes, there is tire wear. It's on the inside, so it went quite awhile before I discovered it and had to replace two tires as a result. I opted for used tires knowing that I'd need a full set this summer, hence the alignment appointment.

As for what caused it, neither my wife or I recall hitting a pothole, but our 16-year old did drive the van a few times last year before he had his own wheels, and I shudder to think what adventures may have transpired. (Mostly because I remember driving my parents' car when I was just as young and just as stup--err, inexperienced.)
 

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Carnival EX Limited
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83 Posts
I just had an alignment done on mine (at same time as buying some tyres). Shop commented that (as above) there's minimal adjustments available. Shop suggested that new shocks (which they don't sell) could improve my alignment.
 

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06 Sedona LX, 06 Sedona EX, 14 Forte EX, 11 Sportage EX, 11 Forte 5-door SX, 15 K900 VIP+
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Sounds like toe-out. I would shop around. $83 is a bit steep. I got my Amanti (all of its alignment angles are adjustable, sadly) aligned for $55.
 

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Kia Cee'd SW, Hyundai i20, Nissan 240SX
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496 Posts
I suspect that alignments in the USA are done on the same basis as the Jiffy Lube 3000 mile oil change ;)

That is to say, not really needed in 99.9% of cases.

I've only ever had an alignment performed on a car once in my life, which was for a Proton Persona, after I changed a track rod end.

Total cost was £25 (US$40).

That's one of these for our American friends (Also known as a Mitsubishi Mirage/Lancer but these are built in Malaysia)

 

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2007 Kia Sedona EX, 1991 Toyota Pickup 4x4 Ext, multiple NA Miatas
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24 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I see your point about alignment work akin to Jiffy Lube 3k oil changes. But in this case it may be needed. There is a wobble in the steering wheel at all speeds but particularly bad on the highway, and significant irregular tire wear. Toe-out seems plausible. If it isn't alignment, it is something else (maybe wheel balancing but I doubt it) and I trust the shop I'm taking it to for an honest diagnosis. US$83 is for 4-wheel. If they only need to adjust two it is US$56. Thanks much for the great feedback!

As for the rotors, I obtained Raybestos brand via Amazon.com (free 2-day shipping, believe it or not) for US$70 and installed them yesterday. Pads are at 50% so I didn't replace them. Braking is now confident and smooth again. I hope these hold up better than the OEM discs.

Off-topic, but what kind of gas mileage do you get? We're lucky to get more than 18 in combination city/highway driving.
 

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06 Sedona LX, 06 Sedona EX, 14 Forte EX, 11 Sportage EX, 11 Forte 5-door SX, 15 K900 VIP+
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Have them check your lower ball joints. The symptoms you are describing sounds like when my lower ball joint went bad.
 

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2007 Kia Sedona EX, 1991 Toyota Pickup 4x4 Ext, multiple NA Miatas
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24 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I'm back to update this thread.

Alignment wasn't the main issue, it was bad tires. Apparently the Kumho set we had were purchased used, had a flaw and could not be reliably balanced. Les Schwab told us this. A new set of Goodyears purchased from Discount on sale completely changed the ride. No more vibration, wonderfully smooth on the highway. And the new rubber was far better in the snow and ice as well. Double win. The alignment has ensured even wear, as far as I can tell.

As for the rotors, no one really commented on that, but here we are 18 months or so later, and the Raybestos rotors have warped. I've considered having them turned, but I think that will just mean another warping down the road, and sooner since there's less metal to handle the heat. I think the size of the rotor must not be able to handle the heat generated by the heft of the vehicle. We aren't hard brakers, but hauling it down from highway speeds on an off-ramp must really heat those babies up.

I'm likely going to purchase a different brand this time, such as ACDelco, in the hope they'll last longer.
 

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Kia Sedona, Hyundai Elantra
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262 Posts
Hi Lobster,
I'll stick my neck way out here saying this, but i learned to be true.
Most warping issues are caused by poor mounting of the pads, rotors, and wheels. Also, for not having the rear brakes properly adjusted.
A brake pad and rotor job should take no less than 1 hour, per axle. it should involve:
a. cleaning of the contact surface between the rotor and hub (no roust or rough surface should be present). cleaning of the contact surface between the rotor and the wheel, same.
b. cleaning of the pad mounting clips; rust and grime must be removed so that pad slides properly.
c. removal and cleaning of the caliper slider pins.
d. reinstallation of the pins; relube.
c. purge of the hydraulic fluid. Lets not be cheap, use half a bottle per axle.
d. adjust the rear axle brakes. relube and purge too; use the rest of the fluid bottle.
e. mount the tires up on the lift.
f. adjust the lugs by hand on a star pattern.
g. torque the wheel to 85-90 lbs/ft (still on the lift, not on the ground), star pattern also.

As far as brands, my personal preference is to get the same series of rotor and pad. for instance, get a rotor brand ABC series XYZ, same one for the rotor. Why? typically these two are engineered for each other. In some cases buying dissimilar brands or series may create problems with excessive friction (heat); in turn, may lead to warpage. I like to use ATE premiunOne products. i havent had better, for the cost.
Good luck.
MV
 

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2009 Kia Sedona LX, 2008 Hyundai Sonata
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39 Posts
In point g. above, you mentioned 85-90 ft/lbs.

What is the proper vs real world torque setting for the 2006-2014 Sedona? The owner's manual specifies 65-79 ft/lbs.

I purchased my own torque wrenches - one from Canadian Tire, and another from Harbor Freight Tools during my last vacation in the USA. I was torquing my lug nuts to 79 but I kept having to re-tighten them every few days as a few were always coming loose. I tired increasing by 5 ft/lb increments - 85 was still loosening, but 90 seemed to work well. Before a long road trip (Kitchener to Sudbury - 5 hours of highway driving) I torqued them to 90, and after I arrived I re-torqued and found the wrench was clicking with no movement of the nuts.

In a different forum I remember reading an article where someone repored a wheel fly off despite doing using the impact wrench to 50 ft/lbs and then lowering the vehicle to torque properly to the OEM Spec. He went on to say that if you over tighten them once, then the studs will streach, and the torque spec is out the window!

Thanks for your help.
 

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2007 Kia Sedona EX, 1991 Toyota Pickup 4x4 Ext, multiple NA Miatas
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Discussion Starter #13
Did the job today. Hey mkvma, you were spot-on with c and d in your list. The lower pin on the driver's side was very sticky, and I really had to work to get it out. It must not have let the caliper slide much. I cleaned the whole assembly thoroughly, including the pins, and re-greased. The pads on this side were worn unevenly. The passenger side wear was even, and the pins were OK, but I cleaned and re-greased anyway. I also serviced the rear brakes, but pads weren't needed.

Here's my amateur assumption on what happened: That sticky caliper slide pin wouldn't let the left front brake pull completely away from the rotor. This created excessive heat and warped the rotor. I could see wear spots on it showing the warpage. Brake pulsing was always worse coming off the highway. I assumed the longer braking period from a higher speed was the reason, but now I think the primary issue was a red-hot rotor from constant brake pad contact.

I have yet to fully purge the brake lines, but will be doing so. The brakes still feel a bit spongy. I also replaced the master cylinder today in a separate project not part of this discussion.

I always torque wheels using the process you suggested, but do I need 85-90 ft-lbs? That seems higher than spec, which I think is 65-79 in the manual. I used 70 ft-lbs.

I didn't completely take your advice on the rotors and pads. I did order from the same brand (Bendix) if not the same model line. The rotors are Bendix PRT5881, the pads are Bendix MKD1202IQ Semi-Metallic. Hopefully they'll be a good match. I purchased everything on Amazon with my Prime membership. Rotors were about $35 and the pads were $36.

You might be interested to know that those pads included new mounting clips, which was an unexpected surprise.

I also adjusted my parking brake while I was at it, a long overdue adjustment.

As always, thanks for the excellent advice.
 
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