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I have a 2006 Kia Spectra5 with 109,000 miles.
Whenever I'm around 40 mph or 65mph the car will jerk as if it's stopping or lurch and then keep on going. But, after that it won't have the power when starting out like before.

I pulled these codes:

P0700
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical.
P0750 Shift Solenoid "A" Malfunction.
P0765 - Shift Control Solenoid Valve D (Overdrive Solenoid) Malfunction
P0755 Shift Solenoid "B" Malfunction.
P0760 Shift Solenoid "C" Malfunction.

Anyone have any insight or help?

Thanks!
 

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From all the codes posted it looks like a wiring harness problem going to the transmission. It would be hard to believe that ALL of the posted solenoids would fail at exactly the same time. More likely a wiring problem...Less likely the TCM (transmission control module). Look for corrosion on connectors (plugs/sockets) on the harness ends.
Common to all solenoids and torque converter would be a ground return.
Dave
 

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I had the same exact symptoms and tracked it down to where the valve body harness meets the external connector it had broken solder joints. You will have to remove valve body to access it. KIA 2.jpg

KIA.jpg
 

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Welcome MSCOAST...
It's not often that a "newbie" offers such important information about their car and it's repair. I have an 06 Spectra SX (4door) and read the original post back in September.

I'm always looking for "answers" for my Spec to use in the future.
That's a good one... Can you offer more information on how to access this connection.
Like what needs to be removed and how hard a job it is?
It looks like there was black potting epoxy you scrapped off to gain access to the solder joints.. Nasty cold solder joints!
Thanks for sharing your fix!
Dave
 

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Remove transmission pan, remove filter, remove 14mm nut and shift lever, disconnect lower harness from upper harness at connector located on valve body remove bolts shown in picture be careful when removing valve body because there are four accumulator pistons with springs it may take two people to keep them from falling. kia valve body bolts.gif

Set accumulator pistons with springs aside.
with valve body removed look up in transmission housing you will see where harness goes to external connector, you will now need to lower vehicle.
Now disconnect external transmission harness from connector look closely at connector base you will see a metal ring clip that can easily be removed with a flathead screw driver after clip is removed push downward on connector it will fall out through the bottm of transmission.
you will have to remove a small black cover on the back of the connector where the ribbon cable attaches after cover removed you will see solder connections clean harness really good with brake cleaner ensuring solder connections are free from any oil. apply flux and with a desoldering iron remove as much old solder as possible, apply more flux and resolder all connections

now its time to reassemble in reverse order. now if you cant remember what order your accumulator piston go in here is a picture accumulator pistons.jpg
note that three next to each other will be in this order 1.single yellow spring, 2.double yellow spring, 3.single yellow spring. The other will be a double white spring. it will take two people one to lift valve body the other to line up accumulator pistons and springs

torque bolts in order of first picture

TORQUE: 10 - 12 Nm (100 - 120 kgf.cm, 7 - 8 lb-ft)

NOTE: 6X30mm (A): 17EA, 6X35mm (B): 1EA, 6X40mm (C): 1EA, 6X55mm (D): 1 EA, 6X60mm (E): 1EA

hope this helps
 

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i would recommend checking this first even if you only have one of these codes including transmission temperature sensor circuit malfunction before replacing parts on any kia with this transmission all solder joints were cracked on the connector
 

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MSCOAST..
Are you a transmission guy or just went after a probable cause?
I see there is either a rubber or epoxy layer over the connections. Probably used as a "strain relief" to keep the flexible PCB from bending at the solder connection and failing in the future.


My being primarily an electronic technician I have seen quite a few "bad joints" like this. Usually caused by either poor solder (and flux), too low soldering temperature, or the "wonderful NEW lead free solder" being forced on the electronics industry.

I wasn't too far off the mark when I suggested plug/connectors/harness ends as multiple failure codes pointed to something common to all of the codes. :)

I captured all your pictures and comments and made a "word" document to share with others when the need arises.

I see that there "IS" a filter (from your description) in the Spectra tranny. A question that has been asked before on this forum. It has been mentioned that the "cheaper" Spectra transmission lacked one and that's why they want a 30k fluid flush..

I also forwarded this thread to a local HONEST transmission rebuilder in my local area (Akron/Canton/Massillon, Ohio) so they can help others as they have for years.
Really great guys that WILL even help you if you are out of their repair area..
Transmission Repair and Service

Anyway...Thank You for providing information that will keep more KIAs on the road and help others with limited funds.

Dave
 

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no iam not a transmission guy but have repaired/rebuilt a few i have been a technician for about 15 years and run a shop in Ocean Springs, MS called MS Coast Tire and Service. i love electrical repairs and finding repairs for things rather than replacing. i currently rebuild most instrument clusters for gm vehicles and others, repair fuel injection modules for ford 6.0l powerstroke enjoy finding common manufacturing defects and or poor designs and offering repairs for them at a fraction of the cost
 

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Solenoid B valve

My car threw a code (P0755) that says my solenoid b valve is going and needs to be replaced. Has anyone ever replaced one and have had no further problems with the transmission.



Thank you very much

SGT Henry
 

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Has anyone made this repair or know what mscoast is speaking of?

I joined this forum in hopes of speaking with mscoast on what he was recommending to do. I'm having the same issues the original poster is speaking of and throwing codes P0760, P0755, P0765, P0750, P0743, AND P0734. Cars runs fine untill it slams around in gears but keeps driving. Lack of acceleration follows and no leaking. I notice mscoast hasnt posted but 4 times now that i've joined. Hope other might be able to recommend something to check before I start taking apart as he recommended originally. ANYONE KNOW HOW TO CONTACT MSCOAST, I called the store he ran and they changed owners and he's unreachable. Thanks!
 

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First thank you guys for is wonderful web site! I say that because my 06 spectra HAD the same issues as above post and by doing the proper diagnosis determined I have the very same problem and with the help from this forum was Abel to fix it myself. !THANK YOU! Note new harnesses can be picked up from kiaoverstock.com part and shipping was 135.00 ish not bad to me. Thank You! Hope this help's others and reassure others that they can do this them selfs to. O I do have automotive knowledge, just a back yard fixer of my own cars / truck but not a full timer. Now I do own a car stereo shop for 35 years so if I can help just as we say hala . LOL
 

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Welcome John...
I see you are in Ga...
How about giving us more on what you found and the part # of the harness you replaced... so....We can help others....

The Spectras are getting a little older and they are starting to develop more problems...My two Specs are running without problems thankfully.

I was in the pro audio service business and an electronic technician for 42 years...
The service portion of the consumer/pro/business electronics is no longer and I was forced into retirement when the commercial service company folded because of it.
So I'm involved in helping friends and family with all kinds of projects...

Hope to see you around the forum...
Dave
 

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Just joined this forum for one reason. Probably won't post much else but did need to make this one posting!
I'm in Florida, and my wife's 2006 Spectra started shifting poorly and going into "limp mode" about 2 months ago (at 66k miles). I got on the internet and found this KIA forum as I was searching for answers regarding her tranny problems. The initial code we got from Advance Auto Parts was a P0734 (gear 4 incorrect ratio), and we took it to a shop and they got a code P0765 (Solenoid D open or shorted). The shop we took it to replaced the TCM module under the dash and said it was the problem. They charged us $577.00 to replace it with a used one and the tranny worked great as we drove it back home (13 miles). We parked it for about 2 hours, and then the wife got in it to go to work. She got about a half mile to work and boom...back into "limp mode".
We took it back to the shop the next day and they said it was now most likely that it was a bad solenoid, and in order to fix it it would cost us another $1800.00 for parts and labor. I just got disgusted with them and we drove the car back home and parked it.
I remembered I had read what MSCOAST had said on this forum regarding the bad solder joints on the inner wiring harness. This Saturday (Aug. 16th), I finally got the time to try working on the wife's car and I followed MSCOAST's tips and pictures to pull the valve body and check things out. The job wasn't extremely hard overall, but it was messy due to the tranny fluid continuously dripping all over the place and making my tools very slippery...
I tested the 5 solenoids with my digital meter and each one read 3.2 ohms. I looked at the ribbon style wiring harness and it seemed OK. I finally popped the cover off the bottom of the main plug like MSCOAST said to do and looked at the solder joints with a good magnifying glass. Found 3 of the joints were cracked...BAD solder joints!!!
Took the cable in the house after cleaning it and re-soldered the solder joints (yes I used to be a TV repair guy), and snapped the cap cover back on.
Put everything back together, used Permatex 81180 RTV gasket sealer (for transmissions... just under $7.00 at Advance Auto Parts) on the transmission pan, and let it sit overnight to cure.
This morning, I put the tranny fluid I had drained back in the tranny since it was less than a year old and still clean and red. Cranked the car up and backed it off the ramps I had drove it on. Took it around the block a few times and it shifted PERFECT! Check engine light has stayed off, and we have driven the car 5 times, about 50 miles total today so far...and got it up to 80 mph on the expressways and it has not so much as hiccupped even once! I think it is now 100% fixed...and we just wanted to thank this KIA forum and MSCOAST for your absolute help!!! (and for saving us $1800.00 from that lousy shop also...).

BTW - While doing research, I found several things that may help others. The part numbers I found are:

46307-23000 (upper harness with round plug that typically has the bad solder joints).
46308-23000 (lower harness with plugs for solenoid block).
46313-23000 (replacement solenoid block with 5 solenoids on it).
46321-23000 (transmission filter).

Also found a website called Kia Parts - Genuine OEM Kia Auto Parts Online where you can order this stuff at a reasonable price if needed.

Special NOTE - Found out 2007 and up Hyundai Elantra parts will work also since it is the same transmission. (model # A4CF2 transmission).

Also, I used Permatex 81180 RTV silicone sealer on the pan, followed their instructions, and let it cure overnight. Car does not leak a drop of tranny fluid...I have verified this! Permatex works great and is far cheaper than other brands I researched. (it was $7.69 plus tax for a tube, and only had to use about 1/3rd of it).

Special THANKS for all your help! I mean that!!!
God Bless You...
(Old Bob...a 58 year old dude who could do this job fairly easy. Save your money and fix your own KIA folks!!!)
 

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How I fixed my wife's 2006 Spectra transmission...Step by step:


Drive the car up on a pair of car ramps. Open the hood, and pull the plastic left side battery cover. Then pull the positive battery connector loose and drop it down so it will not reconnect with the battery terminal. May have to use a piece of string to tie it and make sure it will not pop back up and touch the battery terminal again while you are working on the car. (Everything you have to do under the hood is at the front of the car, so you can easily reach it even with the car on the ramps.)

Crawl under the front of the car and remove the plastic skid pan that blocks the transmission pan on the front so you can get to the bolts. Now put a big cardboard sheet under the transmission to catch the fluid that will be dripping all over the place during the job.

Put a drain pan under the drain bolt on the transmission. Then unscrew it and let the fluid drain (it's a 24mm bolt). May take about 15 minutes to get to a point where just an occasional drop comes out. Now put the drain bolt back in and tighten it back.

Start removing the transmission pan bolts. The are all 10mm, and all the same length...so no need to keep them in order or separated. After they are all removed, take a putty knife and tap it with a rubber mallet at the front of the pan. Go the entire front and try to pop the silicone loose, then push it in more and easily pry the front of the pan. Then the pan will pop loose. Be sure you have a drain pan under the rear of the pan because some fluid will gush out.

Set the pan aside with it's bolts. Now you can see the valve body under the transmission. Pull the 14mm gold nut off the shift rod bottom and also pull the metal lever that connects it to the plastic valve plunger. (Had to use a screwdriver to gently pry the lever and pop it off the shift rod as it was a bit tight on the rod.)

Now, pull the large flat internal wiring harness plug apart that sits at the bottom of the valve body. Push in on the plastic tab and use a small screwdriver to pry and separate the middle section.

Be certain to keep each bolt you will pull in the exact order so they will go back in the correct hole. (I used MSCOAST's picture and enlarged it so it would print out on a sheet of 8.5 x 11" paper. Then I stapled the paper to a piece of 1" thick styrofoam and used a battery drill to drill down into each bolt hole on the picture. When I removed each bolt, I placed it in the correct hole down into the styrofoam to keep each bolt in the correct order.)

Start pulling the bolts from the valve body. Make sure you follow MSCOAST's diagram to pull the correct bolts. They are all 10mm, but you need to be certain to keep them separated so you can place them back in the same holes they came from. As you pull each bolt, put it in the styrofoam according to the pic you have stapled to it.

Now you can pull the valve body off. Use a helper to grab the 4 accumulator pistons and springs as you drop it and be sure to keep them in order so you know where they go back. They are plastic, and loose so they drop right down.

Now that you have the valve body out, you can see the upper wiring harness at the front of the transmission. Crawl out and look under the hood. Use a small screwdriver to push the tab on the top plug in and wiggle the plug as you pull it. Pops right off. Now pull the large metal C-ring from the top of the inner wiring harness. Tap the harness top with a rubber hammer and a long socket extension until it pops loose and drops down.

Now clean the tranny fluid off the upper wiring harness with a can of brake cleaner spray. Pop the plastic cap cover off the inside part with a small straight slot screwdriver (it has tabs, so just pry them some until they pop loose). Now you can see the solder joints at the front and can scrape off the silicone that covers the rear ones. Check each solder joint under a big magnifying glass, and resolder the bad ones. Put some Permatex 81180 sealer back over the rear joints and then pop the plastic cover back on.

Now that the wiring harness is done, start putting everything back together. Also be certain the upper wiring harness flat plug stays down below. You will need a helper to hold the accumulator pistons in place as you push the valve body back up. The helper can easily hold the pistons in place with his fingers and his hands lined up towards the outside of the transmission. As you lift the valve body back up, make sure the hole the shifter rod goes through lines back up. You will eventually get to a point where the helper has to remove his fingers and the pistons will drop a bit, but the valve body will keep them in place good enough to push them back up in the holes OK. They are loose and go back in very easily. Make sure when you get the valve body back up all the way that the 2 tapered round guides on the top (one on each side) pop back into the holes and the valve body is now flat up against the transmission housing. Start putting the bolts back into the correct holes (according to your styrofoam picture bolt holder.)

Now that you have the valve body back in, reconnect the large flat connector on the wiring harness, and put the shifter lever and nut back on making sure it's pin goes back into the groove on the plastic shifter valve.

Now, clean up the pan, silicone it and slap it back on (follow direction from Permatex). After it has cured overnight, put the plastic skid cover back on the bottom, put the plastic battery cover back on the left side of the battery, and reconnect the positive battery terminal. Put the fluid back in the transmission into the dipstick tube. Fire the car up and back it off the ramps. Then drive it forever...

***Overall, this job is not very difficult. It took me about 4 hours to very slowly do it and make sure I got it right. The hardest part of the job is that the tranny fluid will keep dripping and get all over your hands and tools making them slippery as heck. Have lots of rags ready...
Also note that you do need to let the silicone gasket sealer cure overnight before you put the fluid back in. So that does make the entire job take a day now. But most of it is done in 4 hours or less, so not too hard!***
 

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THANK YOU BOTH for your excellent posts....
I was the person to make this a "sticky" in the Spectra section as I felt that this would be a problem in the near future...(I was correct)... I'm sure all the posts here will Encourage other Spectra owners to attempt this repair also....

It's sad that a few other posters chose not to at least try this...Some went out and bought rebuilt or used transmissions and paid quite a few dollars more than the three of you (including the original poster)... Sometimes it's worth getting your self a little dirty to save $1500...

Again Thanks!
Dave
 

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Thank you DavesSpectra for all "your" help in creating this sticky post. We are all very fortunate that MSCOAST shared his postings and pictures with us. Were it not for him...we'd all have to pay the shops incredible amounts of money for this relatively easy repair.
This problem can happen with almost any KIA, Hyundai, Dodge, Mazda, or any late model vehicle that uses electric shift solenoids in the transmission. The wiring harnesses on most all vehicles are from China, and the solder they use is terrible. I've read of many similar problems in other brands of vehicles...and all due to the same problem, bad solder joints!
As for the previous posters you mentioned that purchased rebuilt or used transmissions, I cannot say anything bad if this fixed their problem. However for anyone who might have this problem in the future and stumbles onto this KIA forum...it is definitely far easier and cheaper to just fix your existing transmission than it is to pull it and replace it. I could do this job again in possibly 2 hours now that I am familiar with it, and almost any shop can do it in 2 hours also...but charge you labor prices for 5-7 hours @ $90 an hour.
Your choice folks...either pay a shop $1800.00, or fix it yourself for 10 to 15 dollars.

Take care everyone, and hope you never have this problem. But if you do...now you can fix it yourself!!! God bless you all...

PS - my wife drove the car another 2 times this morning, then drove it to work...putting another 25 miles on it today. It still works PERFECT, and now I am certain it will continue to for many years to come.
 

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Update on tranny repair of wife's Spectra

On August 16, I repaired the bad solder joints on my wife's 2006 Spectra internal transmission wiring harness. This is just a quick update for everyone...
It is now October 1, and the car has over 800 miles on it since the repair was done. Has shifted PERFECTLY each and every time we have driven it, and check engine light has not even attempted to come back on.
Just wanted to let everyone know...ALL IS WELL !!!
 

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My 06 spectra had the same issues and I was able to fix it myself thanks to all of you guys.

You really save me a lot of money, I'm very happy that the problem is gone and everything is working perfect again. THANK YOU GUYS, I really mean it. :)

I made a video of the fix, so anyone with the problem can see who I fixed it.

Regards. :laugh:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URUT3t8uUCw
 

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Thank You OmarDragoon for the video...It WILL encourage others to attempt this repair.
Looks like you have a 2004.5~2005 Spectra..
This thread keeps getting better and better :)
Your video is pretty good and will remove some fears of doing the job by the driveway mechanics... It also could be used to show transmission techs what has failed and how to fix it..

kia-forums and it's members keeps supporting their readers even if KGIS won't..
Shame on on KIA and KGIS for going after PROFIT...Many posters here bought their KIAs BECAUSE of the wonderful FREE support...Now it's gone...
Dave
 

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OmarDragoon, just watched your video on YouTube. Very good and very precise video you made when you did your repair! Excellent video for anyone who may need to try and get their Spectra tranny back to normal shifting again.
I am very happy you were able to get your tranny back to perfect, and save some massive amounts of money by using your own "backyard" mechanical skills. You Da MAN !!!
My wife's Spectra is still shifting absolutely perfect, and has 1287 miles on it since I repaired it. Also has not leaked even one drop of fluid. Permatex is absolutely great stuff!
Congrats man...now drive your car forever! May God bless you...

Old Bob
 
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