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I'm replacing all three belts and I found that the alternator belt seems to be too tight. I verified the part number and I believe it is the correct belt, Gates Part# K040350. I know the A/C belt is K040332 as I have the old belt so the belts aren't mixed up. The alternator tension adjustment is loosened all the way and the alternator can not move any further back. However, the belt doesn't seem to fit. I can't compare the belt to the old one due to it breaking and getting shredded. Has anyone run into this before?
 

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I believe there are 2 different belts for the alternator...Depending on what alternator it has. Yes it's kind of tricky about that, I almost ran into similar when ordering up replacement belts for our 09, HAVE to know what option alt. you have. Sorry but I don't have the detailed info about how to tell handy.
 

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Thanks for the info. I ended up having to stop working to attended to Dad Taxi duties. When I returned I decided to look at it again. I found that the alternator was actually not as far back as it could be but when I tried to push it back further the tension bracket was hitting on the top of the alternator just enough to keep it from moving. I then had an idea to remove the alternator and remount it already rotated passed the tension bracket. When I loosed the bottom nut I felt the alternator shift down slightly and lo and behold it would rotate pass the tension bracket.

The belt went on easily and after applying the tension I tightened everything back up. I started the car and let it idle for about 15 minutes and checked the tension again. Feels good. I'll recheck it again after driving it a bit.

Now all I have to do is:
1) Change front brakes and turn rotors.
a. Remove and replace broken wheel stud
2) Fix the windshield washer
3) Replace the driver door window switch
4) ????
 

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Now all I have to do is:
1) Change front brakes and turn rotors.
a. Remove and replace broken wheel stud
2) Fix the windshield washer
3) Replace the driver door window switch
4) ????
1) I would highly recommend getting new rotors and pads as the cost for turning the rotors will be close to the same cost as just buying new + shipping. RockAuto is your friend. Get the new hardware (also minor cost) lube the slide pins and the hardware.

a. I did this recently - guessing I over torqued the lug nut one too many times. The easiest way is to rent a tool from Oreily‘s or whatev auto store of your choice (or buy from Wally World probably $15) it’s a non damaging thread tie rod end remover. it will push the broken stud out the back of the hub. Then you just need to get a stud and at least 1 lug nut ($6+ for both) get 2 or more if you want extra lugs. if you have the old lug that the stud broke from - that with the help of about 4 or 5 washers and you can pull the stud in through the back side of the hub. The lug you use will no longer be good as the threads will be stretched so either mark it or get rid of it. We can start a new thread as I have pictures of the process and can be more detailed if you so desire.

2) When you say windshield washer does that mean it doesn’t squirt fluid or ____?
I ran into this and inside the front passenger wheel splash shield is the washer fluid reservoir with the motor - connector and pump. In my situation the motor was fine the pump was completely clogged with washer fluid build up from the crappy blue fluid and smelled like death lol. I wasn’t able to address it for some time and the fluid was nasty. Also I disconnected the black rubber lines in the hood going to the "squirters" and blew them out as they also had gunk trapped inside. If you still have the hood insulation pad then you will have to remove some of the clips to access the lines.
👍
 
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