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Hoping to get some help fixing my sons Spectra. 2006 manual trans with a 2.0 DOHC engine. This is a very long post but I tried to include all the information I could.

Here is how it all started.

Bought the car used, when I received the car there were a couple of stored codes. My code scanner does not read SRS codes so my son borrowed one from work (AutoZone) The codes I got were:

P2237 o2 sensor positive current control circuit open bank 1 sensor 1
P0016 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation bank 1 sensor A
P0030 HO2S heater control circuit bank 1 sensor 1

And a fourth code that was an SRS code which indicated the passenger seat occupancy indicator was bad. Bought a sensor from the local pick a part and the SRS light went off.

My son calls the other night and said that his car is overheating and the alternator light is on and he is at a gas station. I go check out the car and the belt that runs the alternator and the water pump is broken. The broken belt was caused by the alternator mounting bolt - Goes through the tensioner and locks the alternator in place after tightening the belt - was broken. Went to the local parts store bought a new belt and new bolt and everything was fine. Disconnected battery before messing with remounting alternator.

A day or two goes by and my son says that his alternator light is back on, but he checked the belt and everything is still good. So he runs the code while at work and it comes back as the alternator voltage regulator out of spec. He didn't actually give me the P code just what the text was.

The following day he calls me and says he can't make it home because his battery is dead. He had his headlights on and ac on which was enough draw to drain the battery down and cause it to stall. Went to get him, removed his battery installed a fully charged battery that would allow him to drive the car home. which he did.

So we make another trip to the local pick a part and get an alternator and while we are there we grab a camshaft positioning sensor and a crankshaft positioning sensor. Come home remove the battery that was installed temporarily to get him home, Change the alternator and the two positioning sensors and fire the car up. Everything seems fine the alternator light is off, so at this point we feel we have got a small win.

The following day on his way to work he said that his check engine light had gone off as well. At this point were feeling pretty good that one of the sensors fixed the P0016 code. He takes his car to go to lunch drives about 3 miles from work and it just dies at a stop light, It cranks but will not start, that's where we are today.

What I have done so far to troubleshoot this problem.

Removed the air intake and shot it with starter fluid and cranked engine - nothing - eliminate fuel system

Remove spark plug and test for spark. NO spark. Ohm out coil packs. Good. check wire going to coil packs 3 wire version can't find the correct wiring schematic but one of them should supply 12v with ignition on. Nothing. checked all the fuses that I could find that said anything about ignition or ecu. All good. switch main power relay. no change. Prob the slave side of the relay to ensure it is clicking. works fine. Probe the power distribution box to check for power and ground. Power is on both the high and low side of the relay but i do not get a ground when the ignition is in the on position and the relay dose not click. Installed the original cam and crank sensors just to eliminate any problem from them. No change.

Install my scanner tool and tried to connect several times and tool will not connect with car.
Had my son bring home a scanner from work and tried to connect several times and it will not connect.
Disconnect battery and remove ecu. open up ecu and inspect for any physical damage. None present.

If someone could please provide me with a proper troubleshooting guide, some personal experience or even a wire diagram that is actually for a 2006 DOHC 2.0 spectra that would be great.
 

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Just for a BASIC check, take off the upper TIMING BELT COVER and check for a broken TIMING BELT. Cover is EASY to take off.
 

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Forgot to mention I did remove the top timing belt cover and everything is in tact. Thanks for the reply.
 

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Forgot to mention I did remove the top timing belt cover and everything is in tact. Thanks for the reply.
There's been many reports here of folks checking the belt with just the top cover removed and all looks in order, only to find later that its jumped a few teeth when they check the crank pulley.

A compression test might be a quicker easier check before tearing into the timing belt.
 

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That P0016 code also can be caused by the timing belt missing a couple of teeth... I have owned quite a few Spectras (2006~2008) and every one I replaced the timing belts the first thing as I didn't know the condition or age of the belt(s)...

I would highly recommend replacing yours if you don't know when/if it's been replaced... Hopefully the valves have not been damaged from a belt that lost some teeth and allowed the timing to shift far enough to allow the pistons to smash into the valves...

I would not attempt any more cranking of the engine as you may do more damage "if" the timing belt has failed (lost teeth)... Mark a spot on the timing belt (with the top cover off) then manually turn the crank pulley slowly clockwise inspecting the belt's teeth until the mark on the belt comes all the way around to the mark... If no teeth are missing THEN you can dismiss a bad timing belt....If teeth are missing hopefully you dodged the bullet and replacing the timing belt may solve your no start problem... After replacing the TB it still won't run then do a compression test on all 4 cylinders... These engines are what is called an "interference" type meaning that "if" the timing belt breaks or looses teeth the pistons WILL smash into the valves if the timing is too far off... I have seen these 2.0L engines basically destroy themselves (valves going through the top of the pistons)...

A 2.0L engines for these cars are pretty cheap on "car-part.com"... I've seen some with very low mileage going for under $500...

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Dave
I will check the entire belt today and if it does check out I will preform a compression test.
 

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Ok. So as per Dave's advice I removed the top timing belt cover and manually rotated the engine and looked at every tooth on the timing belt. No missing teeth.

I then preformed a compression test, which not surprisingly because the timing is still on, checked out fine.

#1 173 PSI
#2 168 PSI
#3 178 PSI
#4 168 PSI

Now that I know the timing is not an issue I still need an answer for the no spark. I know the main relay is not energizing when the key is in the on position. Can anybody tell me where it gets it's ground from? I assume it is from the computer but I cannot find a wiring diagram to confirm that. I know many on the forum have said that a computer going out is uncommon but i'm still suspicious. Could an over voltage from the faulty voltage regulator (see original post) have fried something in the computer even though it is not physically obvious??

Thanks for all the help so far. If anybody has any more suggestions that would be great.
 

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The car did run AFTER replacing the alternator before dying... I would be leery of ANY alternator coming from the big car parts stores like Oreillys/AutoZone/Advanced as they are "repaired and cleaned" in Mexico and "if" no fault was found they just clean them up and rebox them... They do NOT do a full manufacturer replacing common fault parts... You may end up with an intermittent/bad alternator or starter that "passed" their testing... I have found that the new Chinese parts on ebay work well and are very reasonable and you are not getting someone else's problems...
See my private post to you for more info...
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Dave,
Yes the car ran fine after the alternator was replaced. The alternator was not a re-man. I pulled it out of a wrecked kia at the local pick a part junk yard. It is OEM.
 

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On much earlier Sportages (before 2004) they had numerous main and ignition relay problems... Maybe you might have a bad one that "clicks" but doesn't make electrical contact...
Just a thought...

My/Our Spectras have been absolutely the best cars I have owned in my 70 years on this earth...
After fixing the damages to the salvage cars... Some wear items are expected as the mileage racks up... I have seen posts here on Spectras going 300k miles...
Dave
 
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