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2006 KIA Sorento LX
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Discussion Starter #1
My Sorento leaks coolant after highway driving a bit then going to city driving. It is at the back of the engine, which of course goes down straight down on exhaust, lots of steam! Does not over-heat and seems to keep pressure, but do have to keep topping off resevior (more and more each day).
I am told the block (heavy metal, cast iron?) Head (aluminum) are the problem. Head warps and coolant leaks at head gasket, then cools and seals itself as it cools!?
Does this sound right to you all?
Is there any fix besides engine replacement?
Thanks from a strapped small business owner that depends on that ride!
 

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I now drive a 2003 S-10 Had an 03 LX 3.5 Sorento
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I would start here. Carefully reach back past and down from the intake hose and touch the y-shaped hose back there. See if wet. Next fill the reservoir back up and see if it drips or leaks out. If you are going to remove all that stuff to check by all means do replace rhe hoses back there at the same time.
 

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I am told the block (heavy metal, cast iron?) Head (aluminum) are the problem.
Who is telling you that?
There's a whole lot of engines of all makes with cast iron blocks and aluminum heads that don't have problems.
Head warps and coolant leaks at head gasket, then cools and seals itself as it cools!?
Does this sound right to you all?
That does sound right for engines that have overheated.
Is there any fix besides engine replacement?
That depends on the mileage and service history which will give us some idea if it worth doing a head job.
 

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Nice video. Although it concentrates on hoses, quite often the actual plastic Y piece is the point of failure.
You are correct gee6. If I had kept my Sorento,
the next time I changed the hose out I was going to put in a brass Y to prevent failure.
 

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2006 KIA Sorento LX
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Discussion Starter #6

I would start here. Carefully reach back past and down from the intake hose and touch the y-shaped hose back there. Se
Who is telling you that?
There's a whole lot of engines of all makes with cast iron blocks and aluminum heads that don't have problems.

That does sound right for engines that have overheated.

That depends on the mileage and service history which will give us some idea if it worth doing a head job.
[
e if wet. Next fill the reservoir back up and see if it drips or leaks out. If you are going to remove all that stuff to check by all means do replace rhe hoses back there at the same time.
Thanks for the quick response. Will do! That be some tight space back there...
If I pull everything from top to replace plugs valve cover gaskets, etc., should I consider just replacing complete head?
Who is telling you that?
There's a whole lot of engines of all makes with cast iron blocks and aluminum heads that don't have problems.

That does sound right for engines that have overheated.

That depends on the mileage and service history which will give us some idea if it worth doing a head job.
It has around 130k on it we have owned from get go, although my son drove it for it's first 12 years or so, so sadly not cared for as well as should have been (I would check things out whenever he was back here in RVA or if we were in Orlando ourselves). It runs quite well, other than this issue no real problems!
It does not leak until the heating up then cooling down situation. If I run it to operating temp I can smell a faint coolant smell in the air, no steam, no drip/puddling or anything. It does not over-heat, gauage (realize the gauage could be off) but holds at the center mark or slightly below.
I am trying a 60 40 mix with the coolant and it seems to be running slightly cooler and no heavy leak the last drive. Here in Richmond it rarely gets to even 10° F, so figured I could try with a bit more water to see what it would do!?
 

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There is a large diameter pipe(about 1 + inches) that's runs under the ICV that fits together with o-rings. These can weep and leak. If you have not done wires or plugs now would be the time to pop all this stuff off and replace them. I did all the major stuff ar the 120000 mark when I did the TB. If you have ever done engine work it is not as daunting as it seems.
 

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And Welcome to the forum.
The brain trust here must have thought the edit button and the old emojis were unnecessary
Because they are gone too.
 

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thought the edit button
See the 3 vertical dots to right of post #no? Click for edit function.
? button 3rd in below the reply box - although I'm not sure about the quality ?
 

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Thanks. An apology goes to the brain trust here.
 

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2006 KIA Sorento LX
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Discussion Starter #11
Update. It seems to be fixed! Have put a couple hundred good miles on it and so far no leaks...
I did find the Y Hose Adapter had a loose hose and crumbled while removing it (good ole dry root). Also one of the O-Rings on the pipe at the back of engine was quite loose and brittle. So, guess a double whammy on that one!). The oil leaks around Valve Cover Gaskets, were the Gaskets, Very Dry & Brittle (like hard plastic instead of rubbery and soft). Of course did a Spark Plug Replacement while down that far.
Thanks to you all for the input, direction and especially that video!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i need a little more help!
I got a good 300+ miles on the truck and suddenly a little smoke and burning smell, rear of engine on drivers side. Of course when i did the original work on the coolant leak, i did also have oil leaks around the valve cover gaskets (which were dried out and brittle) and did replace them also. So, i have gone back and removed the plastic and metal plate and windshield wipers to get access to back of engine and cleaned everything up with foaming degreaser. i could see where there is a very light oil leak running down on to the driver side exhaust pipe. i cannot easily see where the leak is, not a lot of room in that area!...
i am really hoping the the new valve cover seal isn't messed up, but seems to me that if it were, the leak would be worse and would have shown up before the 300 mile mark!?
does anyone have any ideas of anything else right in that area that may cause a light leak?
ready to try a piece of sheet metal in there bent to make a troff that may help divert the light leak away from running down on the exhaust pipe!?!
appreciate any help you all can give!
 

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You are living my story on the car. It took me a second try with the VC's to seal it right. Lots of Permatex on the head and cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You are living my story on the car. It took me a second try with the VC's to seal it right. Lots of Permatex on the head and cover.
yeah, when i was doing the job, i thought, maybe i should use some high temp gasket seal! Heck hopefully the one and only time doing this job....so would have made since!
those Valve Covers are a bad design with those arches, all those little corners that probably don't seal well.... I just wish these vehicles were better designed for working on more easily! because of this i will never own another kia and will warn others about it!
 

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yeah, when i was doing the job, i thought, maybe i should use some high temp gasket seal! Heck hopefully the one and only time doing this job....so would have made since!
those Valve Covers are a bad design with those arches, all those little corners that probably don't seal well.... I just wish these vehicles were better designed for working on more easily! because of this i will never own another kia and will warn others about it!
A typical seal arrangement for camshaft covers seen on many manufacturers vehicles, so be prepared to warn others that may be considering a Honda, Toyota, Ford, VW, BMW, ............ maybe stick with Tesla.

I am told the block (heavy metal, cast iron?) Head (aluminum) are the problem. Head warps and coolant leaks at head gasket, then cools and seals itself as it cools!?
You'll need to warn a whole lot more folks about this very common configuration in the industry.

Who told you that?
 

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I always used a pressure tester and sometimes you can put in a dye and it will show you the leak. When the vehicle gets 10 years old, it's probably good to replace all of the rubber hoses on the entire engine as well. That's my opinion.
 

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"I always used a pressure tester and sometimes you can put in a dye and it will show you the leak."

Took my 2008 to a Kia dealer a couple of times to get a coolant leak repaired under warranty. They first claimed it was an engine oil leak. I had to take pictures of the GREEN puddle under my vehicle and open a case with Kia HQ to get them to finally repair the leak on the fourth visit. Idiot "service manager" had bragged about his big, shiny new shop and all the decades of experience his techs had. But i was the one who had to recommend they put dye in the coolant and use a UV light to find the leak. Idiots!!
 

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I just watched one of those Scotty Kilmer videos and he also put in the dye to find out where a leak was. Those shops can brag all they want. That stuff doesn't mean anything.

I went to a Toyota specialist to fix my friend's old Tercel. The guy wanted $600 to fix the steering rack and other crap. We took the car back home and my father fixed it in less than 1 minute using 3 in 1 oil. The car ran perfectly after that. So much for all of those certifications on the wall.

Took my 2008 to a Kia dealer a couple of times to get a coolant leak repaired under warranty. They first claimed it was an engine oil leak. I had to take pictures of the GREEN puddle under my vehicle and open a case with Kia HQ to get them to finally repair the leak on the fourth visit. Idiot "service manager" had bragged about his big, shiny new shop and all the decades of experience his techs had. But i was the one who had to recommend they put dye in the coolant and use a UV light to find the leak. Idiots!!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
yeah, when i was doing the job, i thought, maybe i should use some high temp gasket seal! Heck hopefully the one and only time doing this job....so would have made since!
those Valve Covers are a bad design with those arches, all those little corners that probably don't seal well.... I just wish these vehicles were better designed for working on more easily! because of this i will never own another kia and will warn others about it!
Quick update: I didn't have time or a lot of money to throw at the truck, again! So, picked up a bottle of Blue Devil Oil Stop Leak and put in the engine. It has been a month or so and another 500+ miles and so far no more oil leaking!
The blue devil was less than $20, so for me the best alternative!
Thanks again to all for the input and help!!!
 
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