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2006 KIA Sorento LX
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Discussion Starter #1
My Sorento leaks coolant after highway driving a bit then going to city driving. It is at the back of the engine, which of course goes down straight down on exhaust, lots of steam! Does not over-heat and seems to keep pressure, but do have to keep topping off resevior (more and more each day).
I am told the block (heavy metal, cast iron?) Head (aluminum) are the problem. Head warps and coolant leaks at head gasket, then cools and seals itself as it cools!?
Does this sound right to you all?
Is there any fix besides engine replacement?
Thanks from a strapped small business owner that depends on that ride!
 

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I now drive a 2003 S-10 Had an 03 LX 3.5 Sorento
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I would start here. Carefully reach back past and down from the intake hose and touch the y-shaped hose back there. See if wet. Next fill the reservoir back up and see if it drips or leaks out. If you are going to remove all that stuff to check by all means do replace rhe hoses back there at the same time.
 

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I am told the block (heavy metal, cast iron?) Head (aluminum) are the problem.
Who is telling you that?
There's a whole lot of engines of all makes with cast iron blocks and aluminum heads that don't have problems.
Head warps and coolant leaks at head gasket, then cools and seals itself as it cools!?
Does this sound right to you all?
That does sound right for engines that have overheated.
Is there any fix besides engine replacement?
That depends on the mileage and service history which will give us some idea if it worth doing a head job.
 

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Nice video. Although it concentrates on hoses, quite often the actual plastic Y piece is the point of failure.
You are correct gee6. If I had kept my Sorento,
the next time I changed the hose out I was going to put in a brass Y to prevent failure.
 

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2006 KIA Sorento LX
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Discussion Starter #6

I would start here. Carefully reach back past and down from the intake hose and touch the y-shaped hose back there. Se
Who is telling you that?
There's a whole lot of engines of all makes with cast iron blocks and aluminum heads that don't have problems.

That does sound right for engines that have overheated.

That depends on the mileage and service history which will give us some idea if it worth doing a head job.
[
e if wet. Next fill the reservoir back up and see if it drips or leaks out. If you are going to remove all that stuff to check by all means do replace rhe hoses back there at the same time.
Thanks for the quick response. Will do! That be some tight space back there...
If I pull everything from top to replace plugs valve cover gaskets, etc., should I consider just replacing complete head?
Who is telling you that?
There's a whole lot of engines of all makes with cast iron blocks and aluminum heads that don't have problems.

That does sound right for engines that have overheated.

That depends on the mileage and service history which will give us some idea if it worth doing a head job.
It has around 130k on it we have owned from get go, although my son drove it for it's first 12 years or so, so sadly not cared for as well as should have been (I would check things out whenever he was back here in RVA or if we were in Orlando ourselves). It runs quite well, other than this issue no real problems!
It does not leak until the heating up then cooling down situation. If I run it to operating temp I can smell a faint coolant smell in the air, no steam, no drip/puddling or anything. It does not over-heat, gauage (realize the gauage could be off) but holds at the center mark or slightly below.
I am trying a 60 40 mix with the coolant and it seems to be running slightly cooler and no heavy leak the last drive. Here in Richmond it rarely gets to even 10° F, so figured I could try with a bit more water to see what it would do!?
 

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There is a large diameter pipe(about 1 + inches) that's runs under the ICV that fits together with o-rings. These can weep and leak. If you have not done wires or plugs now would be the time to pop all this stuff off and replace them. I did all the major stuff ar the 120000 mark when I did the TB. If you have ever done engine work it is not as daunting as it seems.
 

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And Welcome to the forum.
The brain trust here must have thought the edit button and the old emojis were unnecessary
Because they are gone too.
 

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08 2.5 CRDI Sorento Titan Auto
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thought the edit button
See the 3 vertical dots to right of post #no? Click for edit function.
👻 button 3rd in below the reply box - although I'm not sure about the quality 🦑
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update. It seems to be fixed! Have put a couple hundred good miles on it and so far no leaks...
I did find the Y Hose Adapter had a loose hose and crumbled while removing it (good ole dry root). Also one of the O-Rings on the pipe at the back of engine was quite loose and brittle. So, guess a double whammy on that one!). The oil leaks around Valve Cover Gaskets, were the Gaskets, Very Dry & Brittle (like hard plastic instead of rubbery and soft). Of course did a Spark Plug Replacement while down that far.
Thanks to you all for the input, direction and especially that video!
 
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