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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Which is more likely with a blinking check engine light, rough engine at low RPM and P0300, 301 & 302 codes?

A) SPARK: plugs, wires, coil packs, etc.

B) FUEL: EGR, injectors, etc.

C) VACUUM LEAK: cracked hose, etc.
 

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When mine did this, I removed the spark plugs and found one of them to be soaked with fuel. This is the problem cylinder. I replaced the coil ($20 from amazon.com) of this cylinder. Problem solved.
 

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06 Sedona LX, 06 Sedona EX, 14 Forte EX, 11 Sportage EX, 11 Forte 5-door SX, 15 K900 VIP+
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A blinking CEL indicates a misfire condition. The car doesn't have EGR, and I doubt it is a vacuum leak. You are probably best off checking your spark first. If everything checks out with the plugs and wires, then check the injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Can you give me a quick run-down on checking the injectors. I've replaced plugs, checked coils (out of spec a little but all consistant), want to depressurize and check injectors. I can take out the fuel pump relay and turn the engine a few times, right? Or do I need to take out the rear seat and...? I cleaned the throttle body and it seems to run better, still rough at low RPM, better not great, at higher RPM. The codes now are primarily 300 and 302 with a '302 pd'.
 

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Yes, pulling the fuel pump relay and running it until it stalls will depressurize the fuel line.
Measure the resistance between the terminal 1 and 2 of the injector.

Injector Resistance: 13.8 ~ 15.2 Ω at 20°C (68°F)

If the resistance is not within specification, replace the injector.

Have you checked compression? Specification : Approx. 15kg/cm² (1.471MPa / 213.4psi )

Have you checked for a blown head gasket (is there coolant in the oil)? When my Sedona blew a head gasket, it ran rough and threw misfire codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's not blowing smoke, not running hot, oil and radiator still look fine...not loosing or mixing fluid. The injectors 'tick' but that only means so much. I'm wondering if fuel supply is the problem. The test instructions show an adapter between the injector tube and the fuel line, but no one seems to know what that is. I have a gage and some adapters to test supply preessure, but not the one shown. There is another place a little further down the fuel line that looks like a hydraulic fitting I might be able to adapt between, I'm trying not to get too carried away. How do those injectors come out? remove the tube that bolts to the head? Then the injectors snap or clip off?
 

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You can find additional information by registering at kiatechinfo.com. You should be able to test the injectors without removing them from the rail....or even from the ports.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes, absolutely, I will check them right where they sit. I'm just looking ahead, maybe I oughtta calm down...hehe...one step at a time. I now have the system depressurized so I feel better about working on the fuel system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That would explain why I can't find the EGR. I also noticed the part store doesn't sell one...hahaha...even I recognized that as a sign. Now that the codes are just cylinder number two, I'll recheck the new plug gap, and swap a couple coils. If no difference, then conpression check...over 200 psi, huh? Wow!
This is all very helpful to me. Thanks. Sorry about all the questions. I'm not questioning anyones knowledge, I'm just trying to learn anything that a repair book may not mention.
 

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Keep us posted!
 
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