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Discussion Starter #1
I have two parasitic draws in my 2005 Kia spectra. After testing with a multi-meter in a series on the negative battery terminal, the first draw is present in the IGN2 30A fuse which is pulling (.070) on a DC 10A scale. I read that anything over 50 mA is a draw problem and not standard. The second draw is on the interior fuse panel under the "Room 15A" fuse pulling (.285 DC 10A). The total draw combined is .355 or 355 mA. After removing both fuses the draw is .001. does anyone know a systematic way to find the problem? what am I even looking for? no lights inside the car are on, doors are closed, dome lights off, radio off, trunk closed, glove box closed and light off etc. i'm lost as to where to start looking and even what to do when i get there. I cant find a circuit diagram anywhere online and the manual doesn't list the circuits on each fuse. please help!
 

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2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
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The IGN2 circuit is probably drawing for the ECM (engine control module) to keep "memory" for ODBII codes...

The "ROOM" circuit is for all items that require power 24/7....Like the radio channel memory, the clock circuitry (display off but the clock still runs), alarm circuitry, wireless remote receiver, dome lights (through the BCM/ETACS (body control module)) the "dimming to dark" function comes from there.. and...
Anything that needs power for operation with the "key" in the OFF position...

If you changed radios from the original OEM that radio might draw more current for it's memory functions...

The BCM/ETACs are known for very strange failures and none of the failures are the same from car to car... It is the back portion of the "in the cab" fuse panel...and it all unplugs...

Hope this gives you some places to "look" ....If you need a specific schematic (wiring diagram) I got almost everything relating to the 2004.5~2009 Spectras BEFORE KGIS went to pay as you go... just pm me...
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The BCM/ETACs are known for very strange failures and none of the failures are the same from car to car... It is the back portion of the "in the cab" fuse panel...and it all unplugs...
haven't changed the radio but of course could always be a short in the stock radio

so you suggest to start with the BCM/ETAC? would I remove the fuse panel to get to it? once I get to it, how do I test it?
 

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2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
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If you are really worried about the current draw you could start disconnecting the items I suggested... The radio to start....
The trim around the radio and the heat/ac controls is a friction fit... slide a credit card under an edge and pry it up and then gently pull it away from the dash working your hands around the edge of the bezel.... Then the radio is bolted in place with 4 hex head bolts....remove them and the radio will slide forward...unplug the large multi pin connector by pushing in a tab and pulling the plug out... Then check you parasitic current draw if it doesn't change put the radio back in and disconnect the clock module and check the draw...reassemble the bezel...

I bring up the BCM just because it has caused some very strange problems...It may or may not be your problem..
The trim panel by your lower legs needs to be removed and the metal shield behind it also... to gain better access to the fuse panel (front) and the BCM/ETACs module (rear).. Just stay away from ANY YELLOW connectors as they are the SRS/seatbelt/air bag circuits....
There are a lot of things the current draw could be coming from... you just gotta keep trying...
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #5
the reason for the concern is that the draw is large enough to kill the battery overnight or 2 nights. have had to jump 5 times or so in the past two months. alternator is weak (12.86 v when idling, 14.5 at 2k rpm) and intermittent (sometimes 13.8v when idling) but with a full battery draining every night, the alternator is working harder than it should to recharge which is probably whats killing it. the draw has been there since ownership 4 years ago or so. the battery will drop below starting voltage guaranteed if sitting for 3 nights.

ill start with the radio and then move to pulling each interior bulb and post back.
 

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You might want to look for corrosion/oxidation on the connectors located behind the plastic kick panel to the left of the drivers feet....
Corrosion between multi-pin connectors may be enough to drain the battery and water has gotten into this area before on some Spectras.
The interior light bulbs are probably not the cause... Also check the rubber booted door switches for corrosion...
I would suggest staying in the area of memory and standby power (ignition off) as the "room" fuse circuitry feeds them...
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #7
**UPDATE

I was able actually sit with the vehicle before pulling fuses.

at this time the ROOM fuse is pulling .069 or 69 milliamps when off (had to wait for ignition light and car to completely shut off)
also, the IGN2 fuse is still pulling a constant 70 milliamps

total I have 139 milliamp dark current draw. should I focus on the room fuse or IGN2? doesn't the room fuse draw some to keep the clock and radio presets? why is the IGN2 pulling 70 milliamps when the cars off?
 

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Have that problem on my 02 sportage so we put a solar charger on it to keep the battery maintained, I picked up one on Ebay for $125.00 for a 100watt model an it works great. Also have a 50 watt one that also works for the same purpose. The car doesn't get driven very much so I expect to have some current draw from the items that have to run to maintain the system and so the battery would go flat if no backup.
 
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