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Discussion Starter #1
Ok just got this thing a few weeks ago. It has around 177K on the odometer. The power windows not only do not work, but no power to the fuses either. So I pulled drivers door panel to start. Key to "On" position nothing, engine running nothing and this is checking with a test light and a dvom @ the fuse block. So checking the fuse block had no power to the fuses and no continuity from relay terminals to fuse terminals. Tried swapping all other relays nothing changed.
Got another fuse block thinking something may have gone south inside the box. Now with relay out the relay terminal to the inside of the fuse block, the little tab moved over with test light probe and it clicks the fog lights and t/s relay. Still no power to fuses. When putting red lead of dvom set to 20V into forward fuse terminal the the black lead of the dvom @ + battery post it shows voltage. Also the terminal that tics the other relays shows about 1 volt lower than the other 2 terminals showing voltage.
All the windows are in the closed position. From what I understand this thing sat for awhile in a bit of taken apart from changing timing belt and stuff in there. It starts and runs fine, except for a pulley screaming at first. I was told the computer has been changed also. The fog lights don't work either.
Another fun thing trying to figure when you hit the horn the tail lights come on.
If anyone may have some idea of what might be what I would appreciate it. Also checked the ground wire @ drivers master switch and good continuity, but nothing else. Another question the 2 wires that bolt to the front of the fuse supplying power. The one to the engine side is hot the other on the fender side is not until it is put on the little stud. Should that wire be hot on it's own?
So please if anyone has an idea of what may be stopping power to get from relay to the fuses I would appreciate it. And yep even went down and bought 3 new relays just in case. Nothing makes any change.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ok tiny up date here and I don't know if it could be related to my problem's. Have had the battery on the charger all day first off while I was changing fuse box and checking for any improvement. To cut it short just went out to hook up battery, little arching at negative terminal. So with handy test light in hand and no key in ignition clipped test light to battery negative terminal and probe to cable. Yep it lit, low and flickering but 12.89 volts.
So started with pulling fuses at fuse block and bingo. Pulled the Audio fuse and the DEF relay started clicking, pulled it and the light went out.
Anyone got an idea of where I should start hunting for this gator?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm back with another update like it might matter. I now have full battery voltage to both power window fuses. However the windows still don't work. I jumped the passenger windows at the fuse block to the main switch and they work.

Can someone please tell me if the main switch is bad it will affect all 3 others and it needs replaced.
 

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Giday stroller, did you locate your problem? I had a similar issue with my rear left power window.....it would go down but not up. Got a replacement power window switch from the wreckers for $15 it now works fine. So these power window switches do go in due course.
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yep I got all the windows working. I had to replace the ETAC. However the radio still does not come on, the door lights a no go, the rear inside roof lights don't even flicker, the rear wiper no wipes and still no tach. Also I am convinced the ash tray must be for non smokers. I mean is there an insert to take out an empty? Or what you need to use a vacuum cleaner every time it needs emptied. Runs great however and gas mileage isn't all that bad I reckon. But then again I am used to my little car that gets over 40mpg running around town.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Little up date. Got the rear wiper working after finding out it gets it's power from the radio. Radio no work it no work. Oh yeah radio works now as well, both the CD and cassette work also.
 

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Not much help here, but, do you think this may be a salvage from a flood with a washed title?
Way to many electrical issues for a car that just sat for awhile......my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
To be honest I am not sure. I found an old business card in it from and it makes me wonder about hurricane Sandy. But I have found no evidence of sand or water rot anywhere in it. The windshield isn't even sand blasted from years of exposure. It's almost like problems blind sided a previous owner and too much to handle. The former owner's purchase lien was released in 2016 to a clear a title. But yes as far as I have found far too many electrical issues to be at once.
 

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FYI it's down to bad 'labelling' of the fuses. The wiper does not 'get it's power' from the radio. Rather the radio/rear wiper/ac unit/seat heaters/others all have relays which have a common control circuit. That circuit is protected by the so-called 'rear-wiper' fuse. So any one thing that causes that fuse to blow will kill all the other circuits as well. (Typically, operating the rear-wiper when frozen in ice will cause the circuit to overload.)
 
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