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Discussion Starter #1
I recently discovered that I had antifreeze leaking and could not find the source. I came home today and had antifreeze pouring down over the spare tire. The lines that run back there look very rusted and corroded. Info would be appreciated.


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10 Optima LX, 07 Rondo EX, 89 Chevy C1500
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This is very common on the 2005 and earlier Sedonas. The lines rust and leak, usually the rear section first. It is best to replace them all at the same time.
 

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10 Optima LX, 07 Rondo EX, 89 Chevy C1500
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The parts alone are cheap, as should be the labor to replace only the middle and rear sections. The front section is more labor intensive, though, as the engine cradle needs partially lowered to allow room to remove and install it. There is chance you could get away with only replacing the middle and rear sections, but usually the front section is rusted as well, and after the other 2 are replaced the system seals up and builds pressure it usually doesn't last that long.
 

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hi just reading your post. this is what a guy said he did on another forum

Hi. Drivers side front to rear. Jack car up front and rear drivers side. 2 steel pipes joined by 2 lengths of rubber hose about 18ins long. Then joined to steel again and so on until reach rear heater. Remove spare wheel to see clearer at back. BEFORE replacing ect colour code one pipe all the way front to rear on both ends of hose and steel pipe. I learnt the hard way. You can replace in all rubber but you will have to make sure hose does not touch exhaust pipe. I replaced the steel with 15mm copper pipe with 15mm straight conectors on the end soldered to create the gnarled effect to push the pipe over then used new clips.
The steel pipes follow the inside bulk head of the engine bay then appear on underside of drivers side as mentioned.

Hi. Sent before costing...rubber about £15 £18 (Halfords). Copper 15mm £7-£8 for 3mtre lenght 2 is plenty. I used my own pipe bender, heap shop if you buy one about £15 or ask local plumber to form copies. You can unbolt the steel pipes as units to copy. It is quite simple really. Whilst at it make a return for the front two pipes incase of a leak when traveling. Then you can by pass the front two with a short piece of hose or a 180 bent copper with hose attachments.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
As a temp fix, (for a good while probably), I took a length of heater hose and made a "u" between the second and third section of line. The third section is in terrible condition, rusted and multiple leaks. The first and second section is in pretty good shape. I am going to undercoat that section to hopefully prevent what happened in the rear. The "u" worked great.


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