I recently replaced my timing belt and when I started it up a piece of plastic broke off the cover and caused the cam to jump six teeth. I reset belt but now I get p300 p303 and p 305 codes. I suspect bent exhaust valves. I am going to replace the cylinder head. Does this sound like my valves are bent?
2003 Kia Sedona Timing belt / valve problems
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engine compression test & hand rotation fairly easy to do.
What actually 'broke-off the cover'? I'm struggling with how something broke-off and 'caused the belt to jump'. There is a sensor that sits under the cover....is this what broke-off? If the sensor is out of commission, I'm guessing it could throw those codes. How is the car running now? The codes are obviously misfire codes, so it should be pretty obvious if engine is running rough or misfiring. It is an interference engine, so if the belt jumped 6 teeth you may have damaged some of the valves. Although hard to say, I had mine jump 4-5 teeth once when the tensioner stopped working and it did not cause any damage (car still running great). Did it jump on both banks or just one?
If car is indeed not running right, would start with a compression test as suggested here. I never had to replace the head on the KIA, so don't know about any pitfalls. But it looks pretty straight forward. Hopefully it is limited to the valves and not piston crowns. Good luck.
Not aware of any special tool that holds the crank in place, but maybe there is one. I bought sprocket lock tools at NAPA (cheap, may $15-20/tool?). So you use the lock tools to hold each pair of sprockets in place while you route the belt. However, I had big trouble with this job. The trick is to get the belt on very tight (and I mean tight), so that the only slack is between the inlet sprocket (by the firewall) and the belt tensioner). I learned a trick while doing this. I offset the timing mark on the exhaust sprocket about 2 teeth then routed the belt from the crank and over the sprockets, and clamped the the belt to the sprockets. Stopped there and did not route the belt down to the WP. Then I just a wrench and turned the sprockets into their timing marks. By doing this, belt now very tight between sprockets and crank. Then I continued to route the belt over WP and up over the sprockets. Used the same technique there ,and offset the timing marks, but not as much as on the exhaust side. Used the wrench to turn the sprockets into their timing mark positions, being carefu to not pull to much so that the inlet sprockets started turning too. After a few trial and errors i succeeded and the timing marks on both side lined-up perfectly.
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