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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
hi new to the forum and can use some help. so about 2 years ago i gunked my motor and a check engine light came on. i have dealt w the light on till now. scan is reading trouble code p0135:heated o2 sen. bank1 sensor 1 heater circuit,also p0141 bank1 sen 2 heated o2 sen heater circuit.and finally p013a o2 sen slow response rich to lean bank 1 sen 2.

so far i installed denso o2 sens. and no luck after reading thru this forum found out everyone is saying to use bosch sensors so went and installed them and once again no luck.

so decided to pull every electrical connection i could find under the hood and clean w contact cleaner , also pulled battery and cleand up all grounds and once again no luck

also truck seems to be running fine since light came on 2 years ago i get 22/23 mpg..
please help any info would be appreciated ..

thanks in advance...:confused:
 

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Heater codes are referred to as hard codes, the ECU reads the resistance on the circuit and if it is not to spec it registers a DTC, So either the heater coil is open/shorted, or the wiring is faulty.... as you have swapped out the Lambadas, that eliminated the O2 as the fault.

You will need to take the vehicle to the dealer, There is a fault with the Ignition control module and a NHTSB released a TSB on this code.

Make : KIA Model : SPORTAGE Year : 2002 Manufacturer : KIA MOTORS AMERICA, INC. Service Bulletin Num : 51 Date of Bulletin: JAN 01, 2002 NHTSA Item Number: 629973 Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:MODULE Summary: SUBJECT REGARDING REPORTS OF DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES P013A OR P013 BEING STORED......Philip
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hey aqua,

thanks is this a recall issue ? this has been driving me nuts.... and any ideas what the dealer would charge thanks...
 

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The clear code function clears all codes and resets the ready monitors to "Not Completed"... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks once again

So to be clear (I am letting this whole thing confuse me enough lol) once the codes are cleared the ICM will no longer send these fault codes to the ECU, and more importantly the stupid light will stay off for more than 10 miles?
 

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Once you clear the codes the ECU will perform its programmed tests and if there is a fault it will trigger the CEL.... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
One or two last questions before heading to the dealer tomorrow

Since the ECU is finding a fault with the ICM due to the TSB issue (most likely right?) then resetting should likely be a solution?

Due to the TSB should the dealer be charging for the reset?

There is a mechanic a friend knows local who has the right diagnostic equipment to reset codes etc, and though not free would be cheaper than if a dealer was to charge etc.

Should this be a recall item? I am thinking it is not since it is only a TSB, and am really not wanting to spend a fortune while the dealer spends 5 minutes resetting the codes. :)

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Also I am assuming that clearing the codes by removing the battery leads is not the same as what the dealer would do?
 

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Greetings,

re: full service manual - No, that would be against the (Terms of Use) posted on the kiatechinfo website, although the folks @ KIA do allow owners to freely view & print the Service info online at the site,

Would suggest signing up at the kiatechinfo website (see my sig) using Internet Explorer, then you can navigate to -> and view the service info. for your Sporty.

Hope this helps,
GottaCruise
 

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The P0140 is not the reported code (signal circuit), the issue is with the P0141 which is the heater circuit in the O2.

The P0141 code only triggers if the heater circuit does not supply the correct resistance value in a set period after start. That equates to either the heater element is open/ shorted to ground or the associated wiring is in error... The only issue besides the code initiating is that the O2 sensor will not activate until it reaches >650* exhaust temp.... Delayed CL! ... Philip
 

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The P0140 is not the reported code (signal circuit), the issue is with the P0141 which is the heater circuit in the O2.

The P0141 code only triggers if the heater circuit does not supply the correct resistance value in a set period after start. That equates to either the heater element is open/ shorted to ground or the associated wiring is in error... The only issue besides the code initiating is that the O2 sensor will not activate until it reaches >650* exhaust temp.... Delayed CL! ... Philip
Greetings Phillip,

Understood, although per Mike's (aka Pacosworld) post in this thread:

http://www.kia-forums.com/1g-1994-2002-sportage/62909-2002-kia-sportage-w-code-p013a.html

indicate that DTC troubleshooting procedures for (P0140) apply -> and affirms your statement that wiring, connectors, (or ECU) are suspect,

for code (P013 / P013A) ...

IAC, this link was the most complete I found, short of having the printed Service manual on-hand,

Regards,
Robert
 

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I am with you robert,

The Hi Scan Pro will display P013A or P013 as an undefined code. The actual DTC that corresponds with such a concern and should be displayed is P0140.
This DTC will set when there is no activity detected on the rear O2 sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 2).
But it makes no sense as the B1S2 is post CAT and there should be little or no activity (+/-2% on 5vdc steady) if the engine and CAT are working correctly..
But, who knows with these anomalies...adding to this he has been able to clear the P013A....Philip
 

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I am with you robert,



But it makes no sense as the B1S2 is post CAT and there should be little or no activity (+/-2% on 5vdc steady) if the engine and CAT are working correctly..

But, who knows with these anomalies...adding to this he has been able to clear the P013A....Philip
Agreed making no sense / was able to clear the P013A code - with (both) O2 sensors throwing codes, then I'd suspect a (common) ground issue, either the usual suspects (battery->body/frame, or battery->engine grounds)

*the ECM ground point (AFAIK, the ECM supplies direct ground to the O2 sensor circuits),

Or a suspect voltage condition to the ECM on the (+) side:
---------------
The fuel pump relay, (feeds power to -> o2 fuses)
The upper/lower O2 sensor fuses in the engine compartment fuse box,


I guess it couldn't hurt to cleanup all the ground points, the ECM ground point, and remove / inspect / cleanup the fuel pump relay & o2 sensor fuse blades..

Regards,
Robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I want to thank both you guys, no make that a big old thank you as this is finally all now making sense, and I have a positive follow up.

First all your help got me into the right direction, and after learning about the TSB on the P013A code issue I was going to try the easy way out once again and just have the dealer reset the hard code etc.

Well the dealer was closed when I went to them and later went with a friend to a local mechanic he knows to see if he could reset it. While there he was honest enough to offer that with the other codes present he would just be taking my money to reset it as those codes would just set it off again etc

Before leaving he did explain in detail just where to check everything for voltage, and how we would have to trace the problem back from the sensors to the switch in the fuse block, and that we could do our own hard reset by removing one of the battery leads and touching it to the other .

That was not as easy as it sounds since once there was no voltage at the connector to the sensor the wires were hidden behind the engine and we ended up just resetting the code.

Not too long after the CEL came on again it dawned on me that two years ago when I had the initial problem after cleaning the engine compartment etc I had changed out switch in the box to try and fix the problem I was having with it not starting, and then later the CEL coming on.

Low and behold it was the wrong one, and had the circuit reversed, and when the key went to on it shut off power to the fuse and system for the sensors.

Changed to the correct one and the CEL has stayed off for 20 miles so far, but thats twice as far as when it was coming back on previous.

So I ended up driving with the CEL on for over two years, and spent approx $300 on 02 sensors due to having the wrong $5 switch.

Anyone need a set of Denso sensors at a great price :)

Thanks again, and still grinning ear to ear that the damn light is finally off!!
 

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The $200 was not wasted, look at the lesson learned and the knowledge you have garnered about proper diagnostics..

Glad you have it all sorted out... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well prob closer to $300 but I get your point :)

And lets not forget the lesson about borrowing switches that may not be exactly the same. My friend who lent it got a big laugh when he heard what happened.

Anyhow the CEL is still off and I am still like :D

Thanks again
 
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