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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Car shutters and bogs ats times. New o2 & maf,cleaned iacv, checked all and replaced vac lines.. now what? Im taking it to get it a diagnosis in 2 weeks but I dont want to not check everything I can.
 

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You could check the Purge Control Solenoid Valve (PCSV) to make sure that is not letting in illegal air,

And if the "air" side of things is Q/A'd, then would suggest doing a basic fuel pressure / hold / return test to make sure a fuel restriction or pressure regulator issue is not affecting fuel delivery,

And would take another look at the ignition side, checking the coil pack connectors, making sure you are getting good (+12v) voltage to the connectors, and that the connectors and wiring are in good condition..

If you haven't already, taking some basic voltage readings: directly at battery, battery (+) to ground point on motor, pass cabin fuse box (+) to good ground point in cabin, all readings s/b within .1-.5 volts of each other, any low or suspect would then check and clean ground points at the battery, battery (-) to frame, motor ground strap, to eliminate poor grounds contributing to the issue..

Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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Like i said don't overlook a cat being blocked in my pm that 1166 code is a bummer. try disconnecting the pipe between the 2 cat's and see if that helps with power. fuel pump pressure is 48-52 psi, change the fuel filter if you can very easy to do yourself. Good luck, Reguard's Ronjohn
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I stared a new topic. So maybe someone can read that and maybe compine these together. My guy thinks its the ecu because of what he seen. The car was hot and the computer said it was -40 and as soon as the computer started to go up to normal the car ran normail. So how do I know if a used computer will work on my car? What numbers do I need to look at to know that it is compatible with my car?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh there was more things he seen that was abnormal then that. My car dont ever act up when it s hot, only when its cold now. So I think I want to get a computer to see if it works. There only a 150 bucks used on ebay.
 

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re: other topic, post a link to it please..

re: -40 on hot: the Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) sensor provides coolant temp. value to the ECM: the ECM, in-turn, using the ECT and other sensor data determines the fuel ratio / injector pulse / spark / timing to operate the motor,

before (replacing) the ECM, recommend performing a full test on the sensor: remove the sensor, place in a beaker of water, heat to specified temp. (use a candy thermometer) and check the resistance values expected vs. the data on the kiatechinfo website,

if the sensor is original, and mileage is high, replace the sensor as a diagnostic step, -after- performing basic wiring tests from the ECT connector -> the ECM plug to verify wiring has good continuity / no resistance in the wiring,

the ECT sensor shares common ground with the motor - again, recommend reviewing / Q/A'ing / cleaning common ground points,

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If you fully Q/A the ECT sensor, connector, and wiring, and confirm good ground - if the issue persists, -then- I would consider a replacement ECM..

*The ECM should be the -last- item to replace, all other tests connected with a DTC / sensor issue should be perfomed first,

Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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I agree with GottaCruise... We've seen early Sportages with bad starting problems caused by a bad ECT.. Replaced and the car ran great again.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks... thats sounds like something to work with here. Im going need my mechanic to help me on that but hes a nice guy and sometime does work for free for me. Would putting new grounds on the car work just as good as finding the old ones
 

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Yep...the new ground returns will work fine as long as they have heavy enough gage wire to handle the current flow.
With both sensors reading the same -40 I would think there was something "common" to both..like the ground(s) and I'll bet the reading is the default measurement for NO sensors present.
Dave
 

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Yep...the new ground returns will work fine as long as they have heavy enough gage wire to handle the current flow.
With both sensors reading the same -40 I would think there was something "common" to both..like the ground(s) and I'll bet the reading is the default measurement for NO sensors present.
Dave
That would be a safe bet Dave: (-40) is what the ODBII scanner here shows when the ECT sensor is unplugged/disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So where are all the ground points for the 02 rio rx-v? I found 2 I believe. One I found is by the timing belt and the other was by the coil packs. Is that all?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok thanks guys.. new ground is going on now. I have very heavy amp wire for a ground here. I think thats heavy enough..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This means a lot for me for everyone that takes the time to help a guy that you dont know. But I like to help people as much as I can to on thee rios.
 

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You said your replaced the harness the common connector for the water temp sensor and the air temp sensor is the x-12 connector according to my schematics book it's out in the engine compartment by the battery somewhere make sure the connectors are secure and tight the mass air flow and the throttle posisition sensor go through it also according to my book. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yea the same problem was there befor I changed the harness. I only did the motor harness. Then injector, maf, tps, that one. And it didnt chage anything. I tripled checked my conections. I was just out and looked under the dash to make sure eveything was connected. Some things made snappy noise. Yet to give it a test drive
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Now im getting a p0170. Ok so would the downstream o2 be linked to that? Thats the only thing I can think of that has never been replaced
 

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It's hard to tell, with what you found (loose connectors) ..

If it was my ride, I would be carefully reviewing all connectors from the harness swap, the main ECM connector, the ground wire that runs from the ECM connector harness -> ground point,

And would then (disconnect) both battery terminals so no power was supplied to the vehicle, turn on the headlamp switch to drain all power from the system, wait a few minutes, turn off the headlamp switch, and reconnect the battery cables: this should (reset) the ECM and clear codes, then take it for a ride and see if there is improvement / or new codes stored,

Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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Check these out...
http://www.kia-forums.com/1g-2001-2005-rio/81133-p0170-fuel-trim-05-rio.html

Here's one on a 07 Spectra with P0170...bad intake manifold gasket..
http://www.kia-forums.com/kia-cerato-shuma-spectra-forum/79150-p0170-fuel-trim-malfunction.html

P0170 means there was a malfunction in the computer's control of the air:fuel ratio. (possibly a bad IAC (idle air control) valve...)

From the internet...
Causes
Potential causes include a vacuum leak, unmetered air leaks Fuel saturated engine oil Leak in turbo air charge hoses (if equipped) Possibly bad O2 sensor. Oil contamination in MAF connector or O2 sensor connectors. Also check ignition coils, cam and crank sensors, and oil sensor for leakage contributing to oil intrusion in wiring harness. Defective MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. (very common problem with MAF).
Dave
 
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