[Obnoxious1]

Will start off with what happened & what I have done, & hope someone can give me some ideas on what to do next.

Couple days ago, filled up the gas tank & started heading home. while climbing up a hill, the Sporty started losing power & quit when it got to the top of the hill. It turns over fine, has spark, wasn't getting fuel. So checked fuel pump fuse & relay, both good. Dragged it home, went & bought new fuel pump, strainer & filter. Installed new pump, yadda yadda, go to crank it back up & nadda. Turns over, Has fire, no fuel. Take pump back out & hook it straight to the battery to make sure pump works before going & cussing out parts store, sure enough, pump works. Next I took a multi meter & checked to see if current is going back to the pump. With key on, probing the plug that goes to the pump, showed 12.74 volts. so, it is getting power. Gauge sender also showed voltage. Next took off grounds, cleaned contacts, torqued them back down tight, did continuity check from ground wires straight to the battery, no problems found. Yank out the fuel pump relay, test it, works fine. Yank out the Main relay, test it, works fine. noticed the main fuse (15 amp in engine compartment fuse block) was popped. replaced it, turn on ignition & POP it blows out. take fuse block apart, clean every contact in it, re-assemble, put in new fuse & POP, same thing, main fuse blows out. I removed the Main relay, replaced main fuse, ignition on, fuse holds. the moment you put relay in, fuse pops ( not just a little pop, the bright blue spark & almost launch the fuse out of the box type pop)
So, wondering if anyone has a suggestion as to where I should look first for the short before i go ripping through wiring. Not completely understanding why if I have voltage at the pump, the pump will not engage.

Up till this, the Sporty ran perfect, no codes, & purred like a kitten.

 

[cncman]

http://kiatechinfo.com/

Go here and join free, this is the Official Kia website. After joining go to " Service Info ", then select " model ", " Year ", ETM...You will find wireing diagrams here that may help, but I would buy a new relay and try that first. Sounds like you have a dead short...

 

[Obnoxious1]

Traced the wiring ( Thanks for that link by the way!!) replaced relay, have a code for the cam sensor. Before i dump more money into this thing.. Is there a way to test the cam sensor with it out of the vehicle? want to make sure it is the sensor & not another wire issue

 

[aquanaut20]

Did you try "GOOGLE"??

Here, let me do it for you.... How to Test the Camshaft Position Sensor With a Multimeter | eHow.com ...Philip

 

[GottaCruise]

Traced the wiring ( Thanks for that link by the way!!) replaced relay, have a code for the cam sensor. Before i dump more money into this thing.. Is there a way to test the cam sensor with it out of the vehicle? want to make sure it is the sensor & not another wire issue

Greetings,

Would help to know (which) relay you replaced (EGI Main) or (Fuel Pump), and the -specific- DTC code you are getting for the Cam Sensor:

if EGI Main relay, verify the (new) relay schematic matches the (old) relay, namely a "dual-make" contact relay... Cam Position sensor draws power off the EGI Main relay, pin 1 ..

Regards,
GottaCruise

 

[Obnoxious1]

replaced both relays (egi main & fuel pump) Can not remember what code it gave for cam sensor, was over a month ago, but replaced cam sensor today, still same problem, keeps popping the main 15 amp fuse when ignition is turned on.
Here is is new we have tried.
Replaced cam sensor
replaced both relays under the hood
tried turning on ignition with fuel pump unhooked
rechecked all the grounds again

Still has me stumped, no idea what is popping that main fuse

 

[cncman]

I guess you could unplug some area's in the engine wireing harness and keep putting in fuses until you isolate the area thats blowing the fuse. Then look at possible shorted to ground and burnt and pinch points on that harness area, and faulty sensors or any connected in that harness. Sorry I don't know more...

 

[Obnoxious1]

I guess you could unplug some area's in the engine wireing harness and keep putting in fuses until you isolate the area thats blowing the fuse. Then look at possible shorted to ground and burnt and pinch points on that harness area, and faulty sensors or any connected in that harness. Sorry I don't know more...

Good idea & thanks.
So far have discovered that if the main relay is pulled out, fuse does not blow. so it has to be something on the EGI main relay.

 

[aquanaut20]

best to insert a breaker while you are tracking the short, it will reset.

Or, remove the fuse and/or battery, use a DVOM on Ohms...

Common for chafed wires on block or burned O2 wires Philip