[rawfuls]

Exiting work, the KIA started violently shaking which I immediately turned it off and parked it.

Roughly 2 hours later, used a jumpstarter pack to turn it back on, but only turned over after several seconds of cranking.

3-4 hours later, after charging it at home, it turned over just fine- as if normal.
Waited another 2 hours, tried turning it over, but just kept cranking, tried again, and this time after several seconds it turned over.

Seems like on cold start, takes several seconds to turn it over; on warm start, it will turn over after 2 seconds, but sounds like it's about to die as soon as it catches, and then finally turns over.

I replaced spark plugs 3000 miles ago, oil 2000 miles ago..
Cleaned all contacts between battery to chassis (that my eye could see)

What am I looking at?
Very tempted to bring it in to the shop, but I thought I'd try this first.
I don't want this dying on me in middle of a canyon on the way to a housecall.

Thanks!

 

[GottaCruise]

Recommend you check basic battery voltage w/ a multimeter, battery disconnected, vs. battery connected / at idle, vs. battery connected / w headlights & cabin heater on (charging) .. From what you describe, issue improved with battery charging, indicating an electrical issue ..

*Disconnect your additional lighting and stereo equipment / RESET WIRING BACK TO FACTORY STOCK / see if the issue improves - if so, you need to find the source of issue or reduce electrical load on battery..

re: Engine issues, dunno, still scratching my head, re: using window caulk to install valve cover gasket. ..

Regards,
GottaCruise

 

[rawfuls]

Recommend you check basic battery voltage w/ a multimeter, battery disconnected, vs. battery connected / at idle, vs. battery connected / w headlights & cabin heater on (charging) .. From what you describe, issue improved with battery charging, indicating an electrical issue ..

*Disconnect your additional lighting and stereo equipment / RESET WIRING BACK TO FACTORY STOCK / see if the issue improves - if so, you need to find the source of issue or reduce electrical load on battery..

re: Engine issues, dunno, still scratching my head, re: using window caulk to install valve cover gasket. ..

Regards,
GottaCruise

Of course! you've taught me well
First thing when I got home was measure the battery voltage, it was in it's sweet spot of 12.5 which I've been told should start up perfectly, albeit a little undercharged.
Under cranking it drops to about 11.x, and then shoots back up to the 13's as soon as it's running.

Immediately, I unplugged my stereo and extra LED lights, issue still persisted (so now wiring is at stock).

I went out this morning to start it up and it started right up perfectly as if this issue never existed..

Could it be the spark plugs? Perhaps the BOSCH ones weren't that great, and it's time for some NGK plugs that you suggested way back when?

I'm thinking spark plugs because earlier, it sounded like it was cranking and just waiting for that spark before coming to life.. Just my amateur car ears..

 

[GottaCruise]

If it was my ride..

Start w/ changing out the Bosch plugs for NGK, gap to .038",

Consider purchasing (replacement) EGI MAIN and FUEL PUMP relays,

Pull and take the battery to an auto parts store, (e.g. AutoZone) to have the battery load-tested: bad relays + poor grounding and/or excessive electrical load = Battery issues.

--
Do you have an ODBII scanner that allows you to see real-time values from the ECM ( ECT / AIT / Fuel Trim ) ? That may be a good idea to source, changing plugs / replacing relays doesn't help / battery tests good.

--
(IIRC, you have a d/l copy of the service manual, if not, see recent posts here for an (online) version posted by DavesSpectra..) See values and test the coil packs, as long as you are doing the spark plugs, it should be easy.

Regards,
GottaCruise

 

[rawfuls]

Would these NGK's be alright?
NGK G-Power Platinum Spark Plug | Product Details | Pep Boys

Would a timing issue cause this?
I do have an OBDII scanner that can hook up to my laptop along with my iPod, not sure about the ECM data; I can take a look.

 

[GottaCruise]

Yep, those are the plugs I am running right now.
--
(Just be careful when gapping to .038" - the electrode is -real thin- on these plugs.)

re: scanner - before trying to start, verify the Air Intake Temp (IAT) and Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) values reported are within expected range, to rule out a wiring/sensor issue causing the hard/no start ..

 

[rawfuls]

The Sporty seems to be running pretty fine now, just like normal, as if nothing had happened earlier.
I'm going to keep the spark plugs on hand in case, though.

However, today, a very hot and humid day, I noticed whenever I turn right (at a certain point of the turn), my horn goes off, and stays on until I turn the wheel back.
Sounds like a short?
I removed the fuse (and noted it as being a tad bit burnt/crisp, but not broken), until I can find a way to fix it.

I've tried a new fuse, and the misc. lighting is currently disconnected.

 

[DavesSpectra]

Hi rawfuls....

You said " I noticed whenever I turn right (at a certain point of the turn), my horn goes off, and stays on until I turn the wheel back."
That points straight to the "clock spring" inside the steering column...
It's purpose is to allow anything attached to the steering wheel (air bag/horn/cruise control) to remain connected over the full range (lock to lock) of the steering wheel... It's beginning to fail and the horn circuit is shorting to ground within it.. I would not wait to replace the BOSCH plugs..they may "work" under certain conditions and fail when you need the car the most...They are KNOWN trouble makers in KIAs... Because you can't "gap" this kind of plug (the distance between center electrode and ground) you are at a disadvantage "if" the pre-gapped distance is wrong and the air/fuel mix has changed (hot humid/cool dry/hot dry)...Replace them... and then forget about them (BOSCH) causing possible problems.
Dave

 

[rawfuls]

Replacing spark plugs, took some out, and they are lightly coated with some oil..
Starting to think my dad's ingenius idea of using silicone (not the one from an auto store) to seal the gasket is starting to break; but that's for another day.

Took out the 4th plug (closest to the cabin), and immediately noticed I didn't hear the 'notch' of the boot coming undone from the plug.
Pushed it back down to get it to reseat, and didn't hear the suction from it getting pushed into the boot.
Took off the boot, and found two items in pieces.
Doesn't look right; do I need to replace the boot?
Something like this?
BWD Coil On Plug Boot | Product Details | Pep Boys

Picture:

 

[rawfuls]

Got a new boot on hold (with the pin; which is I'm guessing what I actually need) from Autozone.
Hopefully this is the right one..
Duralast/Wireset (CP024) | AutoZone.com

 

[Fat Moe]

Replacing spark plugs, took some out, and they are lightly coated with some oil..
Starting to think my dad's ingenius idea of using silicone (not the one from an auto store) to seal the gasket is starting to break; but that's for another day.

Took out the 4th plug (closest to the cabin), and immediately noticed I didn't hear the 'notch' of the boot coming undone from the plug.
Pushed it back down to get it to reseat, and didn't hear the suction from it getting pushed into the boot.
Took off the boot, and found two items in pieces.
Doesn't look right; do I need to replace the boot?
Something like this?
BWD Coil On Plug Boot | Product Details | Pep Boys

Picture:

I'm not 100% sure, but that looks like the resistor that should be on the 2 plugs without wires.

 

[GottaCruise]

+1 - that looks like the short HT lead resistor,

re: duralast part post - that appears to be the correct part,

resistor should test to 5k ohms (range: 4.9k - 5.1k)

--
I suspect (whatever) caulk used is breaking down also - that product is not rated/designed for the heat generated by the motor ..

Highly recommend planning on re-doing the valve cover gasket at earliest possible convenience, don't want to see you 'toast' a coil pack (or 2) ..

Regards,
GottaCruise

 

[rawfuls]

Threw on that resistor and boot, everything started up flawlessly.
It may be the placebo effect, but everything does sound better on startup.
No more crank crank crank.
As far as the oil on the plugs- here is that picture.

Same theory- cracking head gasket?
Since I'm on summer (and I know how to do it myself now), I will probably do it before the dad comes home and tries to cheap out on the sealant again!

Car runs like a champ for now!

 

[aquanaut20]

Oil in the plug well indicates a leaky valve cover, not a head gasket... Philip

 

[rawfuls]

Oil in the plug well indicates a leaky valve cover, not a head gasket... Philip

Whhooops, that's what I mean- the valve cover.
Seem to keep mixing them up!

 

[rawfuls]

After the new NGK spark plug install all gapped to 0.38, things have been noticeably punchier. However I'm still having occasional starting issues, these issues are normally on warm starts (after the car has rested for about 30 minutes) when the key is turned, I can hear it cranking; sometimes it will crank right up, other times it will crank and then catch, but then dies immediately. There was once a time it did this about 3 times: removed and turned off anything that could've been pulling electricity, pumped the gas and brake a couple times, and when it cranked and turned over, revved about 5k rpms; and the engine held. Recently, is been cranking, catching and I'm able to keep it from dying by revving the engine as soon as it turns over...
What's the issue, this time?

 

[DavesSpectra]

Hi rawfuls...
I just was addressing another 2001 Sportage and referred the poster to this thread...
http://www.kia-forums.com/1g-1994-2002-sportage/92626-gear-reduction-miata-starter-manual-trans.html
It seams that the starter for the early Sportages was not the best you could get and the Miata starter was a bolt up replacement.... Read over the above thread and see what you think...
Dave

 

[rawfuls]

Interesting seems very likely; however why does revving the engine help the starter?
Revving saves the engine from dying (stalling?) immediately after the engine turns over

 

[aquanaut20]

Recently, is been cranking, catching and I'm able to keep it from dying by revving the engine as soon as it turns over...
What's the issue, this time?

Over fueling on a warm start...

You need to do a basic OBDII diagnostic with a live data scanner....

Suspect... Bad ECT sensor, or dead ISC.... Philip