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Discussion Starter #1
My 2001 Rio has trouble starting if it has set for a short period of time. The engine has to turn over several time before it will start but runs fine after it starts. It will start right up if you only let it set for a short period. The check engine light has not been on any?
 

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2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
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The check engine light does NOT have to be one for the ECM to store codes.
Most codes do not fire the CEL...Advance and Autozone will "pull" OBDII codes if stored. This can help a lot in diagnosing engine/transmission problems.
To help you more we need to know what you have tried (parts, repair attempts) and mileage of your RIO...
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I will try to get the codes pulled and post them up.. Haven't tried any fix yet..not sure what to fix yet...mileage is 96,000
 

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At 96k miles the first thing that comes to mind is...

Have the Spark Plugs and wires ever been replaced?
The center electrode "burns" away and the gap from the center electrode to the outside electrode gets larger and the electrical spark has a hard time jumping the gap..
Plugs are a good starting place...BUT...Let's see what comes up in codes first...

We also just had a couple of 2001 Rios with bad Spark "coil packs" that broke down internally and caused mis-firing and performance problems..

There are a lot of posts in the 2001~2005 RIO area about almost the same "problems" you posted and what was done to resolve them...

Just wait...you will find more help than you ever thought possible here... Understand that answers may not come in 5 or 10 minutes but over a few days as regulars log back on...
Patience is the key here...
Dave
 

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OK went to the local Auto Zone and had them pull the codes. The guy said there was only one code. P0101..Was going to get a new fuel filter but there was none in stock.. checked the Oreilly's also and no filter there either so I came home and removed the old one and tried to wash & blow it out some until a new one arrives.

Was going to check the spark plugs just to see what they looked like but they must have hidden them under some of the plastic covers..I am still searching???
 

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Ok pulled the #1 and #3 plug but nothing really wrong here. The plugs were changed around 50,000 and so were the plug wires. Had a varmint chew the plug wires will the car was being stored a few years ago. Will get new plugs and replace just to be sure but did not see where this would have been the problem. The car runs great does not spit or sputter ..no lose of power or stalling. Just does not want to start with out turning the motor over several times if it has been setting. Have found out that if I turn the key on and off letting the fuel pump pressure up several times it will start right up. Acts like it is losing fuel pressure while it is setting??


 

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Next...
The P0101 refers to the MAF (mass air flow) sensor.
It is located in the large rubber tube/hose..
It's purpose is to monitor the density and flow of air into the engine. The ECM uses this reading to adjust the air to fuel mixture as this changes with the temperature and air pressure (weather fronts). The can either get dirty or go bad over time and then mis-read the air flow/density. There is a can of MAF cleaner available at your auto parts store...Use ONLY this and not the carb/choke cleaner on the MAF element. DO NOT TOUCH the sensor element with anything but this spray as it is VERY delicate..
You will see the sensor hanging down in the center of the rubber hose. and you will see what looks like a wire screen...you are in the right place...
All the things I mentioned will help your Sporty to breath better.
The plugs are under the plastic cover running the length of the engine. There will be the spark coils on top of them...
If any of this seams hard/strange google what you need to know and also watch you tube videos on the items in general...You'll get the jest of what I'm saying..
Dave
 

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I have to presume you know nothing when I post responses...I see you are doing well...
The plug you showed looks "OK" but a picture can lie... can you check the gap from the center electrode to the grounding arm.. Check it against the numbers on the lable on the hood and regap the ones that are out of spec by lightly tapping the grounding arm to move it closer to the center electrode.
From what you posted in your last one....It does sound like the fuel rail is loosing pressure over time and need it be re-pressurized. The fuel injectors require pressure behind them to spray fuel. You may have an injector that is leaking slightly or a fuel regulator that is allowing fuel to move back into the fuel lines ...I think you're on a roll..
Dave
 

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Oklahoma, Sounds like your right on track look into the system fuel pressure problem Turn the key a couple of times to bulid up pressure and it works fine! I think the fuel pressure regulator is part of the pump assembly but not real sure. But do check for small leaks somewhere else like injectors or whatever (pump, filter connections). Good luck you will get there. If you have a fuel pressure gauge you can hook it up to the schraider valve on the fuel rail if you have one My O2 does not but it should i could never find it. Monitor the pressure while it sits fuel pressure should be 46-51 psi while running and after sitting for 25 minutes it still should be above 25 psi if not check for leaks. That is from my kia book. Hope this helps. Reguards Ronjohn One more thing don't forget that darn timming belt maintenance just a reminder
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Changed the plugs and cleaned the MAF. Have a new fuel filter on order. Will try to get a gauge to check the fuel pressure. Could some one shed a little more lite on where you can hook up a guage to the fuel system?

Thanks
 

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Changed the plugs and cleaned the MAF. Have a new fuel filter on order. Will try to get a gauge to check the fuel pressure. Could some one shed a little more lite on where you can hook up a guage to the fuel system?

Thanks
I ended up making one with some spare 3/8" fuel line, some 1/4" pipe-hose nipples and 1/4" tee, and a 100 psi gage. Gages are most accurate at the halfway point, and 50 psi is what spec is, so 100 psi gage works well. You remove the snap on fuel line and rig(clamp or zip tie) your hose/tee/gage in place of it. when you are done just snap the fuel line back in place. No smoking, and use safety goggles!!
 
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