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Discussion Starter #1
Have a 2000 kia sportage and driving down the road the other day it started smoking from drivers side under the dash then the engine light came on and it died. Would turn over but not fire. Had a shop pick it up and they found nothing burnt under the dast but the ignition fuse was blowed. Has a dead short on that line. The fuse in the engine compartment labeled engine fuse, if it is pulled the short goes away. The shop has given up on it so I had it pulled back to the house. Has this ever happened to anybody else or am I the lucky one? Any ideas.:mad:
 

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Have a 2000 kia sportage and driving down the road the other day it started smoking from drivers side under the dash then the engine light came on and it died. Would turn over but not fire. Had a shop pick it up and they found nothing burnt under the dast but the ignition fuse was blowed. Has a dead short on that line. The fuse in the engine compartment labeled engine fuse, if it is pulled the short goes away. The shop has given up on it so I had it pulled back to the house. Has this ever happened to anybody else or am I the lucky one? Any ideas.:mad:
Welcome to the forum.

Tracing electrical faults like this is not within everyone's skills set, so if you're not knowledgeable in these things best to take it to good auto-elec shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Actually I am a electronic tech but I'm getting to old to work on cars. I was just kind of hoping somebody had experience with a simular problem.
 

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Actually I am a electronic tech but I'm getting to old to work on cars. I was just kind of hoping somebody had experience with a simular problem.
I am>64, suffer systemic Lupus and leukemia, complicated with diabetes and a damaged left anterior chamber. and I would be all over an issue like this...with a tone generator..

The engine (F1) fuse serves the ecu, fuel pump and o2 sensors ... Philip
......
 

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Have a 2000 kia sportage and driving down the road the other day it started smoking from drivers side under the dash then the engine light came on and it died. Would turn over but not fire. Had a shop pick it up and they found nothing burnt under the dast but the ignition fuse was blowed. Has a dead short on that line. The fuse in the engine compartment labeled engine fuse, if it is pulled the short goes away. The shop has given up on it so I had it pulled back to the house. Has this ever happened to anybody else or am I the lucky one? Any ideas.:mad:
* If the CEL is on, I'd hookup an OBDII scanner and pull codes, might help narrow down (which) circuit is involved with the short,

Would pull, and inspect each fuse & check continuity w/ a multimeter, especially in the passenger cabin fuse box,

** IMPORTANT: Disconnect -all- aftermarket items (AUX lighting, Stereo equipment, Trailer wiring, etc.) - reset vehicle back to STOCK wiring before proceeding,

you mentioned 'ignition' circuit - any troubles with the ignition switch prior to the event? would pull the plastics off the steering column and drop the lower drivers side air bag to expose the ignition switch, wiring, and the relay block...

If automatic, the TCM (trans. control module) is also back in there, above & in back of the relay block..

* How do the grounds look? would do a thorough cleaning of all ground points, including the fuel pump ground ring to establish good voltage during testing,

* The 'ignition' fuse in the engine compartment fuse box feeds the ignition switch, and in-turn, most of the fuses inside the passenger cabin that are (switched) power from the ignition switch, - including the ECM feed to the ignition circuit / the coil packs..


In addition to checking all sensor wiring,

would also pull the intake plenum and remove the coil pack cover - would remove & inspect each of the coil packs, the coil pack wiring lead from the coil packs to the connector at the back of the block -> the connector & wiring harness leading down to the entry point to the passenger cabin at the bottom firewall..

--

If still no joy.. No obvious short / wiring issue found:

* If the shop found nothing burnt on the top side, consider unbolting and inspecting the underside of the passenger cabin fuse box, and the relay block for burnt/charred wiring.. And would be considering same w/ the engine compartment fuse box also.

Recommend signing up at the kiatechinfo website (see my sig. / requirements on main page) using Internet Explorer in order to access the ETM electrical schematics for the '00 Sporty..

Good luck, and remember the fuse box can be your friend:
for example: if you pull the "fuel pump" fuse, and are able to keep the main fuse from blowing, you know the issue lies downsteam of that fuse in the circuit..

GottaCruise
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, I went out and looked at it tonight but didn't get to much done. Pulled the covers off the steering column and checked the ignition switch and found no problem. One side of the fuse reads like 10.1 ohm to ground and the other side is less than one. Tried a fuse to see if I could see it ark anywhere but only saw the fuse blow. Had the wife watch the engine compartment and she saw nothing. The block diagram that I have shows that line going to the coil packs and a condenser. Anybody know where the condeser is located at. I guess tommorrow I will tear the top cover off of the coils and check them.
 

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The shop that had it did take the fuse block off to check behind it and found nothing wrong. They also hooked up the OBDII and I guess no hints there. I'd still like to see a better wiring diagram. No, there was no problem at all before it just quit Sunday night. Am already signed up at the Kia site.
 

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The radio condenser is mounted to the Cam sensor:

look behind the valve cover, exhaust manifold side, the cam sensor is mounted behind the exhaust cam, the radio condenser is mounted to the lower bolt of the cam sensor..

re: better electrical schematics, see:

http://www.kia-forums.com/1g-1994-20...al-free-3.html

Post #26 by Ace1564 for a scanned (PDF) copy of the service manual..
(Thanks again, Ace1564..)

--
The [00SPORTAAGEETM] directory has the ETM schematics,

Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey, thanks alot, that link worked. Looks like a lot of useful information there. Take awhile to sort thru it. Didn't get a chance to to look at it tonight, it kinda turned a little on the chilly side today by the time I got off of work.
 

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Well I went out this morning and disconnected both coils, still blows the fuse. Ignition switch appears to be good, still looking.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Does that diagram show the black and yellow wire coming off the IGN 1 terminal of the ignition switch then it splits off and one side goes to the 15 amp engine fuse (the diagram shows it as 10 amp) and then it shows it going to the data link connector?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Took the ignition switch completly out. No shorts in the closed position. No sign that it ever got hot. Still looking.
 

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Hey johns62312..
It seams we all are "over the hill". I'm 63 and I keep my family and friends cars running..
I'm also an electronic tech... How about substituting a 12v lamp instead of a fuse. It would act as a current limitier and also would go out when you found the short to ground. I don't often suggest a bad ECM but even the most reliable circuits can fail. With the lamp in place disconnect the ECM and see if the lamp goes out.if it does then reinstall the connectors one by one until the lamp comes back on. They ca point in the direction of the fault. The smoke from burning could be contained inside the ECM. Is there any indication that the OBDII scanner is talking to the ECM? (communicaton linked).
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm going to try the ecm tomorrow. I couldn't get in to the noise condenser, they put it in a really good place. Probably have to take the valve cover off to get in to it. Hope for better luck tomorrow I guess.
 

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Well I pulled the ecm module and it still blows the fuse. The only other thing not pulled off of that lline is the noise condenser. Looks like it's in the wiring harness somewhere. I quess it's about time for the scrapyard.
 

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Well I pulled the ecm module and it still blows the fuse. The only other thing not pulled off of that lline is the noise condenser. Looks like it's in the wiring harness somewhere. I quess it's about time for the scrapyard.
NO1 No!... use a tone generator, inject a pulse and test (non destructive)... Philip
 

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Where can you get one of these tone generator's at? They only have 3 listed on ebay and none of the auto parts stores have a listing for it. Was thinking about disconnecting one side of the Y after the one connector from the ignition switch, leave the side that goes to the fuse box connected and everything else disconnected. If it still blows a fuse it would have to be in the wiring from the switch to the fuse box. That might narrow it down. Does that sound like a plan?
 
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