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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A year ago the passenger side front started making a vibration. This only happens when going over 25mph. When you hold the 4x4 shifter and move it slightly the vibration stops. But will start again once you hit a bump. This can be a very small crack in the pavement or a hole.

I have had it to several (over 10) mechanics. Each one does something different and says its all fixed. The latest one told me, if what they did doesn't fix the problem they have no idea.

The axle, u joints, ball joints, wheel bearings, brakes, tires, and spindle hub have all been replaced. I have even gotten schematics from the dealer to verify no parts were missing (which at one point were).

I am at my wits end. I love this car and do not want to get rid of it, but cannot put much more money into it, nor can I trade it in when in this condition.


HELP!!!!!
 

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A year ago the passenger side front started making a vibration. This only happens when going over 25mph. When you hold the 4x4 shifter and move it slightly the vibration stops. But will start again once you hit a bump. This can be a very small crack in the pavement or a hole.

I have had it to several (over 10) mechanics. Each one does something different and says its all fixed. The latest one told me, if what they did doesn't fix the problem they have no idea.

The axle, u joints, ball joints, wheel bearings, brakes, tires, and spindle hub have all been replaced. I have even gotten schematics from the dealer to verify no parts were missing (which at one point were).

I am at my wits end. I love this car and do not want to get rid of it, but cannot put much more money into it, nor can I trade it in when in this condition.


HELP!!!!!
If it was my Sporty, first thing I would do is go and have the tires checked at a tire garage, to rule out a separated cord/band in the tire is causing the vibration.. And would check all (4) tires, irregardless.

Would ask around / visit a garage that does primarily tire work, so you know the tech. has experience in sighting any deformity in the tire, which can be difficult to see.

And would have the wheels checked & rebalanced as needed, using a *high-speed* rebalancer, not a low speed rebalancer.

After above is Q/A-d good, I'd remove the vacuum hub off the front hub for each wheel, (1) at a time, and retest, to rule out an stuck or damaged (engaged) hub on either side is causing the issue.

If good, would then have the wheel bearings for both front wheels checked and torqued to spec. - if the vibration lessens or goes away, you'd know if the issue was in the front hub,

From there,

I'd check the condition of the front sway bar pivot arm links, e.g. the bushings top & bottom, if deformed, would suspect the sway bar stabilizer links need replacing..

And would visually check the condition of the front left strut, making sure there are not any leaks / etc.

--
Above is assuming the previous mechanics have fully Q/A'd the front suspension / checked the upper and lower control arms / ball joints / bushings, tie rod ends, center link..

In summary, checking the tire for a separated cord/belt, rebalancing tire and rim, removing front vacuum hub and checking, retorquing wheel bearings to spec.. Visually inspecting front left & right struts, visually inspecting front stabilizer bar link bushings for deformity or wear..

Hope this helps,
GottaCruise
 

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You need to confirm that it is in the car's geometry not the wheel/tire combo....

Use a known good set off another car, if the vibration remains you may discount the tires as culprits....

I chased a wheel vibration for over a yr, balance well, did not display any separation, however I finally used a run-out gauge and detected 1/3 of the circumference to be deficient by 30mm. Missing part of a belt in the casing. Not visible to the naked eye.....or to the balance machines..... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
question

thank you both for your responses, I have two questions.

1) Was the vibration you chased for a year so bad you could not see out the rear view mirror because it shook so bad?

2) When you say torque the wheel bearings to spec, how is this done since the axle is held on by a C ring? Am I missing something?:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks

Philip, that is exactly what it is doing.

I guess I will try a different set of tires next. Geez, if that is what it was all along, I am going to be ticked off, but happy you guys were here to help
 

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Philip, that is exactly what it is doing.

I guess I will try a different set of tires next. Geez, if that is what it was all along, I am going to be ticked off, but happy you guys were here to help
Try complete wheel sets, just in case the issue is in the wheels... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Uughhghhhhhh

:mad::mad:

Ok, changed wheels and tires to brand new set. Within 5 minutes, same thing, bad vibration. Since the mechanic felt so bad he hasn't been able to fix this problem, he gave them to me on loan.

So he took them off, put old ones back on and took the spindle hub off to see what was going on. The C ring will not stay on the axle. This is the 5th one to be replaced.

The bottom line problem, what is causing the C ring to keep falling off the axle?:confused:
 

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:mad::mad:

Ok, changed wheels and tires to brand new set. Within 5 minutes, same thing, bad vibration. Since the mechanic felt so bad he hasn't been able to fix this problem, he gave them to me on loan.

So he took them off, put old ones back on and took the spindle hub off to see what was going on. The C ring will not stay on the axle. This is the 5th one to be replaced.

The bottom line problem, what is causing the C ring to keep falling off the axle?:confused:
Sounds like to me the mechanic is not using the right tool to remove the snap ring (what you are refering to as a C-ring) I know becaus I made the same mistake over the summer. New ones from the dealer were $12 a piece :eek:

There is actually a half moon shape on on both ends on the inner part of the snap ring requiring external snap ring pliers to remove it. The mechanic is using something that is spreading the snap ring to far and distorting it.

Has your mechanic checked the U-Joints? This could be your issue. Also there is a needle bearing that goes in the steering knuckle that supports the axle shaft. If it goes bad it will notch the axle shaft and will bounce instead of rolling smooth. Both the needle baerings & axle shafts will have to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
c ring

Sounds like to me the mechanic is not using the right tool to remove the snap ring (what you are refering to as a C-ring) I know becaus I made the same mistake over the summer. New ones from the dealer were $12 a piece :eek:

There is actually a half moon shape on on both ends on the inner part of the snap ring requiring external snap ring pliers to remove it. The mechanic is using something that is spreading the snap ring to far and distorting it.

Has your mechanic checked the U-Joints? This could be your issue. Also there is a needle bearing that goes in the steering knuckle that supports the axle shaft. If it goes bad it will notch the axle shaft and will bounce instead of rolling smooth. Both the needle baerings & axle shafts will have to be replaced.
Yes, you are correct, it is a half moon, and I watched him put it on last night, he is using the snap ring pliers, and he did not open it very much at all, be was careful when putting it on. And all of the 5 that have been put on came directly from the dealer. Since our Kia dealer is a rip off, they were closer to $9 a piece. The needle bearing has been replaced once with a used part which upon inspection looked fine, but now a new replacement is on order.

For some reason this c ring isn't holding the axle into place. It keeps popping off. There is so much play in the axle they have to grab if from behind the wheel and pull towards you to get the c ring back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update....

So the mechanic replaced the spindle hub again, the c ring again, and is now saying when they put it is 4 wheel drive the axle turns on that wheel but the tire doesnt. This is leading them to believe the vacuum system isnt working.


Thought?
 

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I feel like I might have something similar. The other day, while driving, I hit a small pothole. I then felt this vibration from the front passenger wheel. A few km later, I hit another bump and it want away. It felt like I as driving on rumble strips, which reminded me of when my front u-joints were gone. I cannot make this rumble happen on demand. It seems to be very random, but involves hitting a bump with that wheel...
 

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Taurussmiley, Just a thought, you said if you move the 4x4 shifter it stops, have you noticed if the 4x4 light goes on and off? Maybe 4x4 switch is kicking in causing the vacuum hubs to lockup. I've had trouble with my vacuum hubs unlocking then locking back while shifter in 4 wheel drive, the vacuum hubs very unreliable (see other threads on this site)so I changed to manual warn hubs no more problems cost about $145.00 and 15 min. labor very easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Finally Resolved

My mechanic hero finally resolved the issue!!! :D:D:D

It was the spindle assembly. Where the vaccum hose attached to the spindle assembly, it had become so full of corrosion, it could not be cleaned out. So the replaced it and it has worked like a charm ever since.
 
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