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20" Rim Wheel Upgrade 2017 Sportage LX

6394 Views 18 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  timbit
Has anyone done a 20" wheel upgrade on their 2017 Sportage LX? What tire size did you end up going for? I'd love to see pics! I'm unsure of where to start for this upgrade.
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Here's pictures how my summer 20" setup looks like. It's a concave wheel, but with 8,5" and ET like that (40) it's hard to notice. Would really want 21" set, but couldn't find 8,5" with correct ET. Went for 245/45 tire which has +4% diameter (original size with 20" is 245/40). This way wheel wells are looking more occupied and the car looks lower (while it's actually a bit higher). Also should add to the ride confort on gravel roads (which I have to drive) and made speedometer spot on with GPS speed. On the downside it adds to unsprung weight (compared to 245/40 tire), but my wheels are only 10,6kg/pc, so compared to original wheel/tire set it's not that bad. My winter setup is also the same size, but with studded tires and a bit heavier wheels (8,5", ET38 IRC). Car is 2016 2.0crdi 4WD AT.

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Good solution to ride quality issue, but the circumference is actually about 7.5% larger so when the speedo says 65, it is actually almost 70 mph. That also reduces torque and hp at the wheels and significantly extends 0-60 times. If you are happy with that reduced power and don't care about significant acceleration, then it may be a good solution. The effect on mpg is less predictable. I suspect mpg will be significantly lower in city driving and might be better on sustained highway speeds without starts and stops so it depends on how you most use your car. And yeah, to a car enthusiast like me, it does look better.
Don't know where you get that 7,5%? 245/45-19 (original) vs 245/45-20 -> +3,6% diameter and circumference. So also +3,6% to speedometer, which at least on my car makes it spot on with actual GPS speed. Also It's really hard to say what it does to power and mpg without head to head tests (they are bigger, but also lighter), but currently it does 15,3s/143kmh @1/4mile (0-100kmh 7,3s) and consumption is down ~2L/100km. These improvements have nothing to do with wheels/tires though. It's funny that my 2ton FWD diesel van is one second and +20kmh faster @1/4mile.
You are right as I used R18 instead of R19. A 3.6% larger circumference will, however, lower hp and torque at the rear wheels not because of weight, but because of pure physics of final drive ratio at the wheels. Is it significant? That depends on the individual and whether your driving is mostly city or highway.
You have to remember that less rotating mass is also pure physics when accelerating/braking/cornering.

Shadowmaker / What year is your Sportage? What is the color called? I notice it doesn't have the Automatic Emergency Braking system which was top priority when I bought my 2017 SX.
Yours is a good looking SUV, however I prefer a larger aspect tire and changed to new wheel & tire setups for winter & summer. 225.60.17 Nokian for the winter and Yokohama for the summer.
This is 2016. Color is D5, Sand Track. This wasn't "GT edition" when I bought it used (20tkm/12,5tmi) over a year ago, but got it half price what it should have cost and desided to make it to my like. Now I have almost twice the power, better fuel economy, REALLY good lights (2x70W HIDs, original quad LED fogs, 400W LED bar), 8" display, GT steering wheel, electric tail gate, sound deadening and some exterior mods (exhaust,window tints, tail light tints, all plastics painted). I understand you wanting AEB system, but if I could choose to have one or not (used car), it's not for me or any driving aid for that matter (well, cruise is a must, but only without radar).
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I noticed your exhaust tips and trim from the picture and wondered if it was stock in your region or custom. Can you give a direct head on pic and explain what you did?
It's custom. As my car wasn't GT edition, it had no visible tail pipe at all. I could have bought an original dual set from salvage yard, but to me it's very old looking with round tips. Bought lower trim and two tips from Skoda Octavia RS as they were only ~180e new. I think Volvo's or MB's tips are better looking, but they were at least three times more expensive and I wasn't THAT confident if I can pull this off succesfully. Fit was surprisingly good and needed only little filling with 2K bumper repairing glue. Of course there's also some putty to level things perfectly, but tried to keep it minimal so it won't crack that easily. Downpipe is 3", rest 2,5" and 2x 2" from the muffler. Tips are fastened to the bumper/rear end of the car, not to the exhaust. Did 2-tone painting with piano black to make it more obvious. Side sill extensions and front bumper lower/center trim are also painted piano black.

Yellow Vehicle Tire Automotive tire Automotive exterior

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Also, not to thread jack here but what light bar did u use? Looking to get one eventually that'll fit. Was thinking 2 7"x1" from nilight. The front bumper slot is partially covered by my licence plate. Another note to the above responses is i feel my wheel setup has better handeling due to less side wall flex. Better grip and better braking. Would like to throw in tho that my rims/tires are 20lbs heavier than stock 17's.
It's a curved 37" E5-X from Provision, combo of spot and flood. Remembered it wrong, only 180W on that one (Have also straight 120W spot led bar behind the grille). My licence plate was also covering that slot, but I just placed it lower. Bumper needed tiny trimming on both ends of that slot to make it fit.

Here's a picture how I installed it above collision bar.

Auto part Vehicle Engine Machine

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With 37" bar it is still adjustable without taking the bumper off.
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