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1998 Kia Sportage
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19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have welded the keyway back onto the crankshaft last year, but the last 3 months I've had to get it welded again but it's not working. we are using a mig welder and the crankshaft is stainless steel, what are we doing wrong or can someone tell me what to use to weld the keyway back on the right way or is there a way to spin the crank on the opposite side and put a new keyway slot into the crankshaft?
 

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Caribou, Otter, Buffalo
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2,692 Posts
If you are seeing continued issues with the crank.woodruff, either the final torque spec is not being met or the cog does not match the crank snout..... Philip
 

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2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
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Would they really use stainless steel for the crank???
I would think it would be highly polished tempered steel.
Dave
 

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1998 Kia Sportage
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19 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
i found out that they are steel. so what type of weld do you use? i am getting .035 gasless flux wire to weld it again. will this work? no, i didn't have alot of torque on the timing sprocket bolt. I had a tool made just the other day to tighten it up to at least 95lb.
 

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1998 Kia Sportage
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19 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
use loctite for the bolt and what kind of weld? I was also thinking about just getting a new crankshaft and pulling the motor to replace the crank.
 

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Caribou, Otter, Buffalo
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Satisfactory repairs have been accomplished with both JB Weld and Locktitie 660. The major factors of a permanent repair is that there is no wobble/slack in the cog/shaft and the bolt is torqued to 120'#.

The key is designed for initial placement alignment, not for retention against rotation.... Philip
 

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1998 Sportage 4x4
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25 Posts
The mating surfaces are just as important as the correct amount of torque applied to the bolt. Yes, Loctite on the bolt. With out removing the crank you may have a tough time repairing this. Is the internal key way on the gear damaged? I was thinking that you may not get a hard enough material using a mig welder. If it were mine and I spent that much time on it already, I would pull the crank and take it to a crank shop, or a good machine shop to weld and correctly machine the key way. If your not willing to pull the crank out try a arc welding using a harder filler material like a 7011 or 7013 rod. Possibly a dremel tool with a small cutting disc to clean up the key way. Use caution when placing your grounding clamp when welding you will want it directly on the crank so no electrical current goes thru the internal bearings.
I dont know where in pa you are but these guy have done work for me before I'm sure they could help if you choose to go the crank out fix or replace route.

5 STAR CRANKSHAFT & ENGINE REBUILDING
PHONE 845-856-5281
40 SEWARD AVENUE PORT JERVIS, NEW YORK
 
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