[97sporty]

I have a 97 sportage. 128k miles. its grinding when it goes into gear. the clutch was just replaced. I think the synchronizers are going bad, because shifting at higher RPMs (like 2700 and up) it'll grind going into gear . so i', thinking i will change the gear oil (or at least put an additive in, but the tranny oil looks pretty bad). I hope that'll fix it. what do you guys think?

To follow that up, I have no idea where the filler plug is on the transmission. I've been under the truck all morning, there are a few bolts there on the side of the transmission but im not sure which one it is. I have been searching online everywhere and i cant find it.

Thanks for the help!

 

[ron1004]

Don't know where the manual trans fill plug is on the side - maybe post a pick while we wait for someone else familiar with this model.

Very unlikely that new oil and additive will do much for damaged synchromesh rings, but worth a try.

Manual transmissions are known to last forever on the original factory fill, and its more likely poor use and/or setting of the clutch has damaged the synchro rings than degraded oil.

 

[Lou O.]

Old synchro test. Engine ideling, level ground, stick in netural. Gently try to push her into 1st gear. Do not jam or force. If synchro is ok the engine idle will start to decrease very slightly. Try on every gear but reverse, which back then was not synchronized. If you don't get the rpm decrease and she feels like it wants to go into gear your forcing cones aka blocker rings need replacing. There is no magical oil to fix these. You most likely can find a salvage yard box for a nominal cost. Good luck! Let us know how you make out!

 

[Lou O.]

Oh, by the way, the clutch is NOT disengaged during the test....

 

[97sporty]

Thanks you so much for the info. So I wont touch the clutch while i am gently pushing into gear, correct?

I would need to change the whole transmission if my blocker rings are bad?

I will post some pictures of the bolts that I am seeing on the sides of the transmission.

Thanks again!

 

[MIA KIA 09]

Thanks you so much for the info. So I wont touch the clutch while i am gently pushing into gear, correct?

I would need to change the whole transmission if my blocker rings are bad?

I will post some pictures of the bolts that I am seeing on the sides of the transmission.

Thanks again!

You WANT the clutch pedal UP while doing that.Just do this in a very open area if it goes into gear smoothly. as the vehicle will start moving(being in gear).
I'm not certain, but to rebuild and replace manual trans "guts" MAY require a few special tools. Easier (and quicker done) is a replacement.
Most manual trans of the era used auto trans oil, at 23 years old it is worn out, Find those drain and fill plugs and TRY fluid change and an additive FIRST. You've not much cost lost to try it. Just note that it won't be an immediate acting "cure", unless on draining you find that the amount of oil was way low.

 

[Lou O.]

Thanks you so much for the info. So I wont touch the clutch while i am gently pushing into gear, correct?

I would need to change the whole transmission if my blocker rings are bad?

I will post some pictures of the bolts that I am seeing on the sides of the transmission.

Thanks again!

Correct! As noted by Mia.
You can also take the route of a reman. Try Jasper.
Just in case, you did check your clutch slave cylinder for proper operation and oil level??

 

[RichardLW]

Anyone who thinks they should go more than 50,000 miles on transmission oil is not going to go much beyond 100,000 in the end. BTW... Did this problem start after replacing the clutch? or was it obvious before? The clutch could be poorly adjusted. With proper oil changes, that transmission should last a half million miles or more.

A huge problem with manual transmissions is that people, mechanics, shops, and people who write articles do not understand that a synchronized transmission cannot use GL-5 gear oil. GL-4/GL-5 is really GL-5. It is a rating for the extreme pressure characteristics, not the synchronizing characteristics.

Use GL-4 only.

And many put oil in that is way too viscous. You need 75W-90. Nothing thicker.

*** if you want more information on this, check out this paper I wrote for my car club friends about 10 years ago and occasionally update to current oils.
Transmission oil selection

 

[MIA KIA 09]

I did NOT "speak out of hat" about what lubricant was heavily used in the time era of this members vehicle. I worked for 2 different US make dealerships thru this time. The factory spec for their manual transmissions was an ATF oil of their specification. YES a "gear oil" for DIFFERENTIAL(S..4wd).
I guess I should have laid out my response to the minutest detail and exact spec oil that a 97 model yr. Kia requires. But as I don't have one that old to have the info "on hand" to give, my post was meant to encourage the member to do his homework and then proceed.
Thanks member RichardLW for your additional input.

 

[christhetog]

I have a 97 sportage. 128k miles. its grinding when it goes into gear. the clutch was just replaced. I think the synchronizers are going bad, because shifting at higher RPMs (like 2700 and up) it'll grind going into gear . so i', thinking i will change the gear oil (or at least put an additive in, but the tranny oil looks pretty bad). I hope that'll fix it. what do you guys think?

To follow that up, I have no idea where the filler plug is on the transmission. I've been under the truck all morning, there are a few bolts there on the side of the transmission but im not sure which one it is. I have been searching online everywhere and i cant find it.

Thanks for the help!

If you have gad a new cutch then the gearbox oil should have been replaced at the same time (they may have drained the gearbox to remove it and then refilled it with the same oil, but that would be very very bad practice). Oil viscosity is essential to synchromesh function, especially at low ambient temperatures, so I would check they put the correct oil in.

 

[rodhotter]

redline mt90 helped my 2001 jetta 02J 5 spd manual shift better as these are known for poor syncros as it shifter poorly from new, my 2001 TT got a dose of the same + its 6 spd manual shifts pretty good. many lubricants are NOT changed as needed + especially when it serves the tranny + drivetrain as well. keep searching you will find something + use multiple general searches from other search engines, good luck

 

[GottaCruise]

Redline MT90 is still brass synchro compatible - and a good fluid to use in the Getrag 1G Sportage manual transmission.

 

[GottaCruise]

Here are some other compatible GL-4 choices:

XT-M5-QS - Ford, excellent / recommended:

FCSD Chemicals and Lubricants

www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com

Amsoil - another excellent product, just make sure you get this -specific- product:

https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g2077.pdf

 

[rodhotter]

GL4 would be my choice for yellow metal safety + forgot to mention that you can call redline as i did not see your vehicle listed. when i changed mine while having issues it was better, BUT another thou of driving it got a LOT better!

 

[Lou O.]

redline mt90 helped my 2001 jetta 02J 5 spd manual shift better as these are known for poor syncros as it shifter poorly from new, my 2001 TT got a dose of the same + its 6 spd manual shifts pretty good. many lubricants are NOT changed as needed + especially when it serves the tranny + drivetrain as well. keep searching you will find something + use multiple general searches from other search engines, good luck

My brother in law loves the redline fluids and swears by them I've watched several youtube videos on it vs various other types of oils and it seems to always come out ahead. I personally have not used it, but it seems to be a good product and should not harm anything!

 

[97sporty]

Wow! Thank you I everyone for the responses!
i took it to a transmission shop. It was the synchros. He said there was also some water in the fluid. He recommended changing some of the the internals, but couldn’t find them. And while transmissions weren’t easy to come by either. So for the sake of the budget he suggested starting with the fluid and see if that helps. If not i may end up changing the whole tranny. He said he put a Used one in for $1700. Little pricey for a car like this.

does any one know where the best place to get used trannys? I’m seeing a lot in eBay.

 

[Lou O.]

I would shop at a specific salvage yard that caters to the 'older vehicle' crowd. Google salvage yards and let your fingers do the walking........What ever you come up with....change the oil!