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2011 Forte SX 2.4L (thankfully MPI) A/T 144K miles
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1,218 Posts
My car was just sitting in the drive way for weeks while I worked on it, not like a kid was playing in the front seat kicking his legs. So those numbers confirmed that the ground the computer uses is good? I still think its odd my radio was acting funny but not anymore.
Yes, your testing of the ground side of the circuit proves it good. Moving the switch down a notch used the resistor pathway, which is why the voltage relative to B+ read lower on the meter at that setting.

I mentioned the switch in the A/C control unit earlier, and there have been reports of Kias and Hyundais having overheating issues with that switch, causing melted connectors. But I don't think that would be the issue with yours, because everything always tests fine on the meter at the blower motor connector. So if a connection has separated due to melting, then it should stay separated and not go back and forth. However, I'm not about to say it's impossible that the switch is bad, because you have some REALLY strange stuff going on there. And the radio is in the same ballpark, so any symptoms with that can't be ignored either. And I suppose the fuse box can't be eliminated as a suspect either, however the same argument about the switch applies to the fuse box as well.

One thing I thought of to maybe test out the bad connector idea would be to use a couple of jumper/probe wires to bridge the blower motor pins to the connector slots. If you have small alligator clips to attach to the pins, you could then probe the connector slots, just like with the meter probes. If that 'loose' connectivity makes the motor spin, then the bad connector would be proved. You could also swap the blower motor relay, which would be an easy way to confirm that (either way).
 

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2011 Forte SX 2.4L (thankfully MPI) A/T 144K miles
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1,218 Posts
Hold the phone on my last 2 posts. I just reread your #17 post, and it looks like I might have misunderstood what you wrote. That last thing you wrote 'Retested and got 13.24 red wire and 3 for yellow and 0 on high' doesn't sound right.

When you said 'tested battery' , I assumed you were probing the blower motor connector ground slot to B+ on the battery. If that's what you were doing, then there should always be voltage with key on, blower on.
 

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08 kia sportage 2.0 5spd awd
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21 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Stranded at a guys house now, 15 miles from home. Must not have put the fuse box back together correctly, but seems to run fine with my jump pack connected, all lights get dim and door locks go crazy when I disconnect the jump box. Dont have my tools or multimeter here. FML. As stated in older post, had to jump it a couple days ago but was running 13.24 volts. Its the original kia battery.
 

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08 kia sportage 2.0 5spd awd
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21 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
Ok. So new battery is good but car is running at 12.34 v . So something isnt right with the alternator or fuse box. I see there is a 120 amp fuse right next to were the alt wire connection with the 10mm nut. I was only able to remove the one screw, other one stripped. Alt only has 100 miles on it. Belt is tight, no battery light is on.
 

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08 kia sportage 2.0 5spd awd
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21 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
Alternator wont put out correct volts unless I rev it past 2500 a couple times. But I'm ok with that, still works. Now I have a leaky gas tank.
 
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