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If you can push the AC belt in 1/2" in you are OK..
You said "I think I'm done. I think I'm done. I think I'm done."
You are close... Unlike my poor "Cleveland Browns" the "heart break kids"..
Hope you score at the end of the game...
Dave
 

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Very strange. I drove the car to work and back, about a half hour each way, with no problem. Got in the next morning started it and got terrible noise coming from under the hood. Screw it, took the other car to work. When I got back under the hood, the Alt belt tightener was backed waaaaay off and the belt was hardly turning. I would swear it backed itself out, but that's impossible. I guess it was gremlins. I hope that's the last of them.
All I have now, is a whine as I run the rpm up, as if on an old style car, the fan was whining. I dread to think it is the new timing belt tensioner.
 

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If you get the timing belt tensioner too tight the belt WILL whine.
The good news is ...only the top tb cover has to come off to access the tensioner pulley. My 06 was making noise and when I backed off the tensioner the noise went away.
You need it tight enough to stay in the teeth but not so tight as it "sings".
I know that the alternator belt tensioner is only accessible through the right wheel well and I have had mine apart (tensioner bolt and Pulley)..If you don't tighten the bolt that holds the adjustment (threaded bolt) that bolt becomes easy to turn (adjust)..When tightened it no longer is easy... I had to teach myself how it worked and how to adjust it..
Still...you haven't even come close to the $500~$600 charge you would have had to pay.. Mark it up to a new learning curve and smile...
Dave
 

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Hi,
I'm new here, but have been following this thread on changing the timing belts on the Spectra. I have a 2009 LX, with approx. 78K miles on it. And I'm aware I'm driving on 'borrowed time', as I have yet to change the timing belt.
I do plan on doing it myself, with the help of a friend who has changed many timing belts on other cars.
My question: Do I need to replace the tensioner and the idler also, or can I just replace the timing belt? I do plan in checking the water pump prior to doing this, along with A/C belts, but I didn't want to buy an entire 'kit' if it wasn't necessary.
Any suggestions and/or comments are welcomed.
Mark
 

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Hi,
I'm new here, but have been following this thread on changing the timing belts on the Spectra. I have a 2009 LX, with approx. 78K miles on it. And I'm aware I'm driving on 'borrowed time', as I have yet to change the timing belt.
I do plan on doing it myself, with the help of a friend who has changed many timing belts on other cars.
My question: Do I need to replace the tensioner and the idler also, or can I just replace the timing belt? I do plan in checking the water pump prior to doing this, along with A/C belts, but I didn't want to buy an entire 'kit' if it wasn't necessary.
Any suggestions and/or comments are welcomed.
Mark
Hey Mark, it's always nice to replace items when you have easy access to them (the tensioner, idler, and water pump in this case), however if they absolutely don't need to be replaced you are OK leaving them. When I did my TB I opted not to replace the water pump and pulleys. I inspected them and they were in good shape. Too many times, I've done preventative maintenance and just created more work in the long run (either by stripping a bolt or breaking another part). If something isn't broken, I typically will hold off fixing it***. This is just in my experience. YMMV.

I'll add my experience replacing my TB as well. The original belt made it to about 105K and looked in good shape when I replaced it. I ended up just taking the old belt off and slipping the new one on without moving any pulleys. I counted the exposed teeth between each pulley and made sure they matched *exactly* without going through the process of marking TDC, etc. I even took some pictures before the old one came off. It was my first time replacing a TB, and I must have hand-turned the engine about 30 times before I closed my eyes, held my breath, and turned the key. Risky, yes; Recommended, probably not.


***This only holds true on my Spectra... my other cars are a completely different story :D
 

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I have a 05 spectra5 and I called kia to get an estimate. And for my car it would be $475, parts and labor included. Not bad in my opinion Esspecially having to change around 60-90k miles.
 

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If you have done basic car maintenance you can save your self around $445 by doing the TB yourself..The TB can be gotten from rockauto.com for around $30 for a "GATES" brand belt... While you are at it get the AC belt and a set of NGK spark plugs... Not a bad job ...I've done 3 Spec TBs...The info is in a "sticky" in the Spectra area of these forums... Takes about 3~4 leisurely hrs that you will get to know your Spec more..
We are here to help you if you have questions...
Dave...
 

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couple questions

First, thanks everyone! This thread (and others at this site) are really helpful. I have a 2006 Spectra5. I've never done anything as ambitious as a timing belt, but I've got most of the tools, so I figure I may as well try. With the instructions here and at kiatechinfo, it doesn't appear too daunting. And the money saved will more than pay for a bunch of new tools. :)

A couple minor questions:

Dave, you said you need two floor jacks for this job. Is that strictly necessary? (I have one hydraulic floor jack now.) Couldn't you simply jack the car, put it on a jack stand (just behind the tire), remove the tire, and then use your single floor jack to support the engine? Or are two needed to support the engine?

Second, is it pretty much standard to replace the timing belt tensioner and timing idler when you do the belt? The reason why I ask is because, on RockAuto, they have two different versions of the tensioner (Gates brand), one for cars built before May 23, 2006 and one for cars built after. Mine was built in May 2006, but I'm not sure of the exact day. The one in the pictures on kiatechinfo looks like the "older" version, but I'm a little unsure.

Thanks!
 

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tmport...
First WELCOME to kia-forums!

Yes you could use just one jack...

You didn't mention the mileage on the car or "if" the timing belt has been replaced..
The tensioner, idler bearing(s), water pump normally should be replaced every other timing belt replacement...

The timing belt is one weak link on the Spectra the second is a commonly ignored item..
The automatic transmission fluid needs replaced every 30k miles...The transmission was a joint venture design by Mazda/Mitsubishi/Ford and was/is used in many cars...One problem with this transmission is that friction material and metal chips start building up in the fluid and the fluid WILL become thickened and become a goo...plugging up the pumps, valves, passage ways of the transmission... Replacing the fluid removes most of the suspended material and greatly increases the life of the transmission... Valvoline MaxLife transmission fluid is readily available at WalMart and meets/exceeds the manufacturers specs (Diamond III)... Failure to exchange fluid usually ends up causing problems over 100k miles...

Dave

BTW... The tensioner changes are minor between the earlier and later 2004.5~2009 Spectras (i've done 2006/2007/2009 Spectras and tensioner on the Spectras is not hydraulic but just a mechanical tension adjustment.. The idler wheel (and it's bearing) attached to the tensioner is the critical part that will fail.
 

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Thanks, Dave! The car is just about to hit 60,000 miles. I just removed the upper timing belt cover this afternoon to look around. The belt looked pretty good (though I could only see the top part), and I could also verify which tensioner design my car has. But man, just taking those bolts for the TB cover off was difficult...hopefully things will be a little easier with the other accessory belts and engine mount removed.

A few snags while I was poking around today: first, my friend drove over my engine cover and broke it into lots of pieces. Oops (totally my fault for leaving it in the wrong place). I assume I don't need to replace it? It looks pretty, but from what I've read, it's not critical.

Second, I have a coolant leak. I noticed last week that the coolant in the reservoir tank was below the "low" level. I topped it off to the "high" level, but today (after roughly 80 miles of driving) it's dropped back down about halfway between high and low. I'm not sure, but there might be a puddle below the engine (hard to tell because it rained last night and it might just be water). I'll have to poke around some more and see if I can see any leaks. Could that just be a failing water pump? I'll probably just go ahead and preemptively replace the water pump anyway while I'm doing the TB.

Thanks also for the info on the transmission fluid. It was changed somewhere around 30,000 to 35,000 miles, as I recall, but I'll do the next change myself (drain and refill).
 

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Oh, I fooled myself on the coolant level. I didn't realize it drops when the engine is cold and rises when it's hot. After driving today, I checked the level, and it was back up to high. I'm still not sure why it was so low when I checked it a week ago and then topped it off, but there doesn't appear to be an active leak. Perhaps it's been low since I last got the coolant changed--serves me right for not checking the level more closely!
 

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Well, I did most of my timing belt today. I have the TB all installed (with a new tensioner and idler), the covers are back on, the engine mount is back on, etc. However, I'm stuck at a pretty important step: re-torquing the crankshaft pulley bolt. How do you get 130 ft-lb of torque on there when the crankshaft just keeps turning as you try to tighten the bolt?

Someone in another thread mentioned sticking a pry bar into the transmission access hole to keep the flywheel from turning, though I believe that's for a manual transmission (I have an automatic). Can I do the same with the flexplate? If so, what exactly would I need to do? And more importantly, where the heck is the flexplate and how do I access it? I can't seem to find any info on it.

Thank you!
 

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Okay, figured out how to re-torque the crankshaft pulley bolt: I used the advice offered by multiple people elsewhere to stuff some rope down the #1 cylinder in the compression stroke (engine off, of course). As I rotated the crankshaft and the piston rose, it compressed the rope and stopped the crankshaft. I was then able to torque the crankshaft pulley bolt fully (hint: if you can't get it to 130 ft-lb using your hands, lie on the ground in front of your car, brace yourself, reach back under the bumper with your leg and press your foot against the torque wrench to get sufficient leverage).

I also had another problem, which thankfully turned out to be fairly minor. When I first started the car up after finishing the install, there was noise, smoke, and an electrical fire smell. I thought immediately that I had maybe damaged the engine. After a long time poking around, I decided to remove all the belts again to inspect the timing belt. When I went to remove the A/C tensioner pulley, I noticed it was completely shredded inside--lots of little pieces fell out all over the place. Either I installed it wrong, or it was ready to implode on its own. (I did notice that it was not rotating freely when I installed it, thought it was rotating when the engine was running...that was clearly the problem. Thankfully, it's winter, so I just left the A/C belt off and I'll re-install it when I get a new tensioner pulley later this week. When I put everything else back together and turned the car on again the second, no smells and no smoke! :)

When I was out on the test drive, I noticed there's a whine when I go above 2000 RPM (rising with the RPMs), which I assume might be an overly tight timing belt tensioner (?). I'll try backing off the tension when I go to replace the A/C tensioner pulley. Otherwise everything seems good.
 

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Dave's post gave me the optimism to tackle this, so I'm just doing my homework now and gathering parts and tools. Couple questions:

1. Are there any Youtube videos which show a very similar replacement? I haven't found one yet on this exact engine, but Robinsonsauto had one for a 2008 Kia Sedona that sort of looks similar to the write up i have seen here.
2. Kia instructions didn't mention removing the motor mount, just the bracket. Did you guys take off the mount too?
3. I saw one guy remove the oil pan jack once the mount bracket was off, so that the engine would lower a bit which gave him more access room on the bottom. Is that useful for this engine? He didn't have this one exactly.
4. Why does the Kia writeup talk about taking off the crank and camshaft sprockets? I assume that's an error and not required?

thanks in advance!
 
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