[jarmstrong]

A few months back in my infinite wisdom got the battery cables backwards. I blew a few fuses under the hood. When I finally got the under the dash fuses replaced and the fusable links under the hood to replaced I have the following issues.

Windows do not work, the 20 amp A/C fuse blows when key is turned on. When the headlights are turned on, the dash lights go out. The heater does not work either.
I did get the windows to roll up and down by disassembling the relay and taping it so the contacts are closed, now windows will work.

As I mentioned we replaced all the fuses we can find blown, and even changed the entire fuse box under the dash. My father who works on cars for as long as I can remember thinks it may be a burnt wire somewhere in the car. It is getting very cold in my area and I need a heater and a defrost very badly.

Any help from the group will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Pacosworld]

A few months back in my infinite wisdom got the battery cables backwards. I blew a few fuses under the hood. When I finally got the under the dash fuses replaced and the fusable links under the hood to replaced I have the following issues.

Windows do not work, the 20 amp A/C fuse blows when key is turned on. When the headlights are turned on, the dash lights go out. The heater does not work either.
I did get the windows to roll up and down by disassembling the relay and taping it so the contacts are closed, now windows will work.

As I mentioned we replaced all the fuses we can find blown, and even changed the entire fuse box under the dash. My father who works on cars for as long as I can remember thinks it may be a burnt wire somewhere in the car. It is getting very cold in my area and I need a heater and a defrost very badly.

Any help from the group will be greatly appreciated.

Its possible that something in the I/P junction box and A/C control module has been burnt. I would unplug the A/C control module and see if the A/C fuse stays intact and the dash lights stay on. As far as the windows go, the I/P junction box/body control module controls the power window relay. You can try isolating the wiring but my feeling is to try swapping the I/P junction box with a known good part or disassembling the module (if you're feeling brave) and take a look at the circuit board. By the way, make sure you're using the correct amp fuses. If I'm reading it correctly, the A/CON fuse should be a 10 amp.

 

[DavesSpectra]

Well... let's see what my time here on the forums and owning 2 Specs (06 & 07) will bring....
Semiconductor electronics do not like reverse polarity..That said I would believe you have some burnt electronics... There is also a FET transistor that is mounted into the ductwork on the right side under the dash close to the blower motor. FETs (field effect transistors) are very polarity and static sensitive. This device(semiconductor) controls the speed range of the blower motor other than full on or off. Unplug it. Then like Paco said remove the center console faceplate that covers the radio/center vents/ and AC controls... Unplug the bottom box that is behind the heat/AC controls and try replacing the AC fuse if it holds (doesn't blow) If it holds ..I'd visit my local bone yard and pick up both items (AC control box and the FET transistor thats mounted on an aluminum heat sink). This part of the repair should be plug and play.

The windows on the Spectra will normally be allowed to go up AFTER the ignition switch is placed in the off (key out) position and before the doors are opened... This function is controlled by the BCM (body control module)... This is also filled with sensitive semiconductor chips. You may have fried portions of this module also...
Check your remote door locking/trunk release/inside lights/turn and brake lights...the BCM controls them and other functions also.

The dash lights have a dimming module on the left side of the steering wheel that is ALSO (you guessed it) a semiconductor device that uses "pulse width modulation" to flash the dash lights at a very high rate of speed. So fast your eyes see it as "on". The dimmer knob varies the width of the on and off times and you see a variable brightness level (from dim to full on)... It probably is also bad... and causing the strange backwards dash functions.

I'm an electronic tech that no longer has work to do. Throw away electronics from China killed the service industry... Warranties are 90 days and during that time they replace the garbage...After 90 days YOU replace the garbage... So...
Here I am because my wife first bought her 07 Spectra and I bought my 06 Spectra (salvage)... I have poured over the schematics for both cars and know the differences (there are many)...
You may find "other" problems that may crop up... I don't believe there are any burnt wires...just mostly burnt electronic modules...Good thing is that Spectras 2004.5~2009 are plentiful as insurance companies totaled a lot of them before the figured out they had a better resale value than they thought (they based the resale on the older Sephia/Spectras) ... Get your electronic parts from 2007~2009 Spectras as 2006 and earlier models have different modules and different wiring harnesses... If you get a BCM be sure it's from a 2007 (like yours). Your wireless fob may stop working and you may have to bite the bullet and have your KIA dealer reprogram the "new" BCM to work with it.
I'll help you if at all possible and I'm usually on here at least a couple of times a day...
Dave