Kia Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
2006 Sedona LX
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all

2006 Kia Sedona "moves" to the right when it hits top gear. When you first start out steering wheel is slightly to the right when going straight. When it hits top gear the car "moves" and steering wheel centers. It could also be speed related, seems to happen around 50, i am not 100% sure it is in top gear. It doesnt really move much in any other gear. New LCA's replaced last week under recall, and new front tires and alignment same day; car did this before then, still does it. Subframe bushings "seem" fine. Looking under car when someone turns steering wheel in idle nothing seems to move and no movement is "felt" in steering. It seems to be mostly related to top gear; gentle on the gas or not doesnt change steering wheel much til top gear, though you can feel wheel move slightly sometimes when it shifts into other gears, but top gear by far worst. Can tranny be an issue? How would tranny affect steering? It does sometimes feel like the steering is low on fluid but it is not. Rack and pinion does have a slight weep. If it is a problem with the rack, why related to top gear? Rack bolts present and ok. I havent fully checked strut bearings yet.
 

·
Registered
2006 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited 3.5, 2008 Kia Sportage 2.0, 2005 Kia Sportage 2.7
Joined
·
217 Posts
07 same here

My 07 has the same issue. Steering wheel changes position usually after making a turn or pulling into a parking lot. New LCA's under recall(did it before), New Struts, Inner and outer tie rods and still wheel seems to change position. Checked u joints under dash and seem fine. Rack and Pinion is tight. If the rack were skipping a tooth I would imagine it would make a racket. Right inner tie rod had a clunk and new ones fixed that. The wandering steering has me puzzled. Has to be sub frame bushings. Mine seem solid too but it must move when all the weight of the car shifts around in a tight turn or pulling into a parking lot. Car drive solid at all speeds. Any insight would be appreciated.
 

·
Registered
KIA's 2000 Carnival, 2008 Magentis, 2005 Optima
Joined
·
559 Posts
My instinct tells me you have an alignment problem, more than likely incorrect caster. When the LCA is disturbed it affects the adjustment.
 

·
Registered
2006 Sedona LX
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Hello all

The movement seems to be torque related. If I let off the gas above around 30 or so (starting out from a stop) it will move, it doesnt need to be top gear. I think before I noticed it would move because I reached my desired speed, and top gear, at the same time, which also means I would decrease the throttle. Car had alignment the same day as new LCR's. It is moving something for sure; the wheel stays at its new position until you turn hard, or come to a stop, or accelerate hard. I dont notice any clunking when this happens, though there is some clunking/squeaking going on at other times. It seems I need to get down into first gear to reset the steering, just slowing down doesnt do it.
I plan on using the gopro showing each cradle mount and reproducing the problem several times, I will keep you all updated.
But, then the question is, if the mounts show movement, is it because of the mounts themselves, or something else (engine mounts, strut bearing) that is causing movement in the cradle?
I took the cradle mounting bolts and brackets off for inspection; one of the rubber bushings I can work out of the sleeve. It "seems" fine but, if it will come out of the sleeve, is that a certain issue?
 

·
Registered
2006 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited 3.5, 2008 Kia Sportage 2.0, 2005 Kia Sportage 2.7
Joined
·
217 Posts
Which cradle are you referring to? I think we both have the same issue. Caster isn't adjustable on these vans as far as I know. I checked the mounting of the LCAs and they are tight. I will need to check again. Something is moving under there for sure. Just finished both inner and outer tie rods and steering tightened up but still shifts steering center when I make sharper turns. Alignment is good even after shift. One thing to note is the wheel can be straightened back out while driving if I yank the wheel hard in the direction I want it to go. This is why i think it is sub-frame related. The only thing the rack is connected to is the sub-frame and the wheel hubs.
 

·
Registered
2006 Sedona LX
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
gopro showed the right lower ball joint moving outboard when throttle was reduced, so it changed camber and toe for sure, probly caster as well. you could also see the bottom of the tire move out. I couldnt get anything to move crawling underneath with the crow bar, or jacking up and trying to move wheel. Alignment shop couldnt get anything to move. Camera showed different.
I believe caster "should" be adjustable at strut bushing at top of strut?
 

·
Registered
KIA's 2000 Carnival, 2008 Magentis, 2005 Optima
Joined
·
559 Posts
gopro showed the right lower ball joint moving outboard when throttle was reduced, so it changed camber and toe for sure, probly caster as well. you could also see the bottom of the tire move out. I couldnt get anything to move crawling underneath with the crow bar, or jacking up and trying to move wheel. Alignment shop couldnt get anything to move. Camera showed different.
I believe caster "should" be adjustable at strut bushing at top of strut?

Caster is adjustable using the nuts on the strut bar (brake reaction rod) attached between the frame at the front and the LCA
 

·
Registered
KIA's 2000 Carnival, 2008 Magentis, 2005 Optima
Joined
·
559 Posts
Although based on further info you have provided have you checked your intermediate shaft between the steering rack and the steering column?
as it may well be binding, it is a known fault on cars that travel on salt laden roads.
 

·
Registered
2006 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited 3.5, 2008 Kia Sportage 2.0, 2005 Kia Sportage 2.7
Joined
·
217 Posts
Caster is adjustable using the nuts on the strut bar (brake reaction rod) attached between the frame at the front and the LCA
I would need photos. As I recall when I used to have access to KGIS, it stated caster was not adjustable. At least on my 07.
 

·
Registered
2006 Sedona LX
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I have not checked the intermediate shaft. There is some minor binding going on, I am hoping new LBJ's take care of it.
 

·
Registered
2006 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited 3.5, 2008 Kia Sportage 2.0, 2005 Kia Sportage 2.7
Joined
·
217 Posts
Talked to Kia yesterday about whether the ball joints were replaced when they did the LCR recall and they did not change the ball joints. I will be ordering the ball joints today. Keep us posted on your results and I will as well. I have changed everything in the front suspension on my 07 including both inner and outer tie rods and that helped.The right side inners were very worn. The wife loves those holes on the edge of the road taking right turns and regularly leaves the pavement. She hit one so hard that it cracked the right rim:eek:. So I would imagine that ball joint isn't in great shape. Nothing moves when I jack it up and grab the wheel though. We'll see.
 

·
Registered
2006 Sedona LX
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
New lower ball joints on today, problem solved. Most of the noise is gone also. Kia did offer to replace the lower ball joints with the new LCA's but I felt it was too expensive. I saved over 150 doing it myself, though the LCA's have to be removed to press the bolts out, and back in.
I couldnt get the wheels to move by hand either, but ball joints were the problem.
 

·
Registered
2006 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited 3.5, 2008 Kia Sportage 2.0, 2005 Kia Sportage 2.7
Joined
·
217 Posts
Ball joints replaced. Tightend up front end however, Steering wheel still shifts after turning. No movement in the sub-frame or rack. Going to steering column next. Possibly lower intermediate shaft play. Inside under dash shaft has no movement that I can tell
 

·
Registered
2006 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited 3.5, 2008 Kia Sportage 2.0, 2005 Kia Sportage 2.7
Joined
·
217 Posts
SOLVED: So I climbed back under the van last night and and had my wife turn the wheel on ramps. Figured it would provide the needed side to side resistance to isolate any movement. I grabbed the rack and sub-frame on the drivers side and felt movement between them. The rear mounting bolt for the rack had backed out and the front was also a half a turn loose, passenger side was tight. I never closely checked that bolt because it wasn't visible behind the sway bar. I was getting just enough flex to allow the rack to move. I tightened it up and all is well. With my bad eyes it just wasn't visible until I put my hand on both surfaces to feel the movement.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lou O.

·
Registered
2007 Kia Sportage LX 4cyl Auto, 2012 Kia Sedona Ex Auto
Joined
·
25 Posts
This thread is a gift from heaven. I really think I have the issue with ball joints as I have 270K on original front end (minus new control arm links). But as erector set as the front end feels when it 'pops', I got under the vehicle to check on the issue Chris had but could not locate the bolts he described. I saw 4 but they were clearly visible. I didn't have anyone to move the wheel for me on the ramps and I already ordered the new KIA Control Arms.

My tie rods could be twisted with a little hand force but did not have any jerkiness or play in them. I'm sure replacing them would tighten things up but this is beyond loose when it occurs.

Rocking the tires did nothing.

I hope the Control Arms are genuine KIA as adverstised on RockAuto. If so, they were a bargain.

I'll report back what I find. I'll have the new control arms delivered before I will be able to get anyone to test the rack so I'm gonna upgrade anyway.
 

·
Registered
2011 Kia Sedona LX
Joined
·
92 Posts
This thread is a gift from heaven. I really think I have the issue with ball joints as I have 270K on original front end (minus new control arm links). But as erector set as the front end feels when it 'pops', I got under the vehicle to check on the issue Chris had but could not locate the bolts he described. I saw 4 but they were clearly visible. I didn't have anyone to move the wheel for me on the ramps and I already ordered the new KIA Control Arms.

My tie rods could be twisted with a little hand force but did not have any jerkiness or play in them. I'm sure replacing them would tighten things up but this is beyond loose when it occurs.

Rocking the tires did nothing.

I hope the Control Arms are genuine KIA as adverstised on RockAuto. If so, they were a bargain.

I'll report back what I find. I'll have the new control arms delivered before I will be able to get anyone to test the rack so I'm gonna upgrade anyway.
Please do let us know about the control arms. I am looking at ordering the same ones and want to know if they are genuine also.
 

·
Registered
2007 Kia Sportage LX 4cyl Auto, 2012 Kia Sedona Ex Auto
Joined
·
25 Posts
Please do let us know about the control arms. I am looking at ordering the same ones and want to know if they are genuine also.
I did passenger side last night. Took me longer than I expected but in the end, the old one came off and the new one went on without anything breaking so that's always a bonus.

I'm not sure if they were genuine KIA parts. Both new ones are stamped "Made in Korea". The original I removed last night had the recall coating so I couldn't see any markings to compare.

The balljoint on the passenger was STIFF. I never could get it to move and was worried it was seized. A little lubrication on the post and a bigger hammer and it slid into the slot, though, and appears to be working on the test drive. The drivers side replacement is much looser, I can move it by hand. So based on lack of consistency, QA appears to be lacking. And no grease fittings so hopefully it was bone dry.

I will replace the drivers side later this week and report on the resolution of the original problem.
 

·
Registered
2011 Kia Sedona
Joined
·
57 Posts
The balljoint on the passenger was STIFF. I never could get it to move and was worried it was seized. A little lubrication on the post and a bigger hammer and it slid into the slot, though, and appears to be working on the test drive. The drivers side replacement is much looser, I can move it by hand. So based on lack of consistency, QA appears to be lacking. And no grease fittings so hopefully it was bone dry.
When I did the balljoints on my '11 Sedona, I had the same issue. What I ended up doing was installing the ball joint, then slipping the ends with the bushings back into the cradle, instead of the other way around. It was a pain!
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top