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'06 SPECTRA
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, been awhile since I posted here but it's also been awhile since my Kia was an issue.

For the last few months there has been a progrressivly worse noise coming from the left side of the engine compartment, i.e. where the tranny sits. At first the noise seemed like maybe a strut or something as it started as a here and there noise that sounded like my D-side tire rubbing. I can feel it in the pedals when it happens too.

Now it's vibrating and making a noise that sounds like a bad A/C clutch while driving and sometimes while just idleing as well. It hasn't affected the way the car runs or drives at all but as it's my wifes DD I'd like to try and narrow it down.

Key notes:
2006 Kia Spectra
5 Speed Manual
Clutch replaced in Dec 2011
grinding/vibrating noise intermitent while driving/idleing
Noise seems to be coming from D-Side engine compartment
At this time, does not affect drivability in any way aside from hearing it


Thanks, hope someone can help me!
 

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2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
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It could be the throw out bearing within the clutch bell housing. Does it go away when the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor? Could be the mechanic may have to go back in..
Dave
 

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'06 SPECTRA
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Discussion Starter #3
No, it doesn't go away when I push the clutch in but if I rev the engine it gets faster/louder.

My wifes uncle and I did the clutch but he's not an option anymore(moved) so I'm trying to track it down without him and failing hard haha. Thanks for the helping hand Dave!
 

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Because it's doing it when the car is sitting and it sounds like a "tire rubbing" I'm wondering if the friction material on the clutch disk has broken free and is rubbing the pressure plate's side or the throw out bearing going bad.

You said "grinding/vibrating noise intermittent while driving/idling
Noise seems to be coming from D-Side engine compartment"
What's spinning in the bell housing is
1 The flywheel
2 The pressure plate
3 possibly the throw out bearing (some cars the bearing spins with the clutch out and on others the throw out bearing spins all the time)
4 The clutch disk when the clutch pedal is released

The transmission is disconnected (or at least it should be) when the clutch is in.
We need the mechanics like Paco to chime in on this...and also on if there is ANY adjustments on the slave to fork connections.

I can't think of anything else that would sound like a "tire rubbing" in that area of a Spectra..
Dave
 

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Another thought the flywheel is not a solid piece of steel. It has a flexplate and that could also come apart and rub the bell housing..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had the flywheel resurfaced when we did the clutch and the kit came with a new pressure plate, throw out bearing and clutch disk. I hope I don't have to do all that again.

The fact that it stops and starts randomly, or seems random to me, I'm leaning towards the friction material being loose. I'd think the other suggestions would be more constant right?

Thanks again Dave, glad to see this community is still as helpful as a few years ago when I was here daily.
 

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You said "The fact that it stops and starts randomly, or seems random to me, I'm leaning towards the friction material being loose. I'd think the other suggestions would be more constant right?"
Remember we are going from what symptoms you supply us.. Do your own looking and listening. A contact stethoscope from Harbor Freight may help you to locate the area.
I don't know "if" there is an "inspection" plate on the bottom of the bell housing (there should be). Removing that may allow you to see if there is material accumulating or surfaces being scratched/rubbed. It should be obvious.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks again, I'll look to see if there's an inspection plate. If I can I'll try and get a video so I can maybe capture the noise to help narrow it down. I've been running and driving it trying to pinpoint where it's coming from exactly but it seems like it won't do it when I'm under the hood, gotta love that.

And of course, it rolled over the 100K mile mark a week or so before it started.
 

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Well...
You're on your way to 300k.. They will go that far with proper maintenance.
Most manuals have one and it is also used to gain access to the bolts on the flywheel.
Are you saying the noise actually comes and goes? Usually clutch problems are fairly consistent.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The only maintenacne I haven't done on time has been the timing belt, but I've planned on it a few times just something else would need that money. But obviously that's on the other side of the engine bay.

Yes, the noise isn't constant. It comes and goes but is growing more frequent and actually a little louder too as time goes on. It has absolutely no affect on drivability yet though, it shifts great and is still as responsive as ever. Just this mystery noise.
 

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Yikes!.
I hope it's not the timing belt shredding itself... Most of them fail around 85~95k miles.
Please do replace that belt now! or you will have much bigger problems soon.
A dying timing belt WILL produce a rubbing tire noise! At 100k I'm surprised you dodged the bullet this long...
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well then.....I'll look into that too. But isn't the timing belt on the far passenger side attatched to the Cam? My noise is definitely coming from drivers side, either way it looks like timing belt will get done ASAP. Thanks again Dave, appologies that you're the only one responding.

Wish I had cash to just take it to the stealership and be done.
 

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I'm cash short also...and take care of my family's cars. Just did rear disks and rotors on my son's 04 Mazda6 yesterday and plugs/fuel filter/cleaned the IAC, and one ignition coil on my ministers 04 Mercury Gran Marque V8 today..
I'd rather do it myself and know it's to my standards..
and don't worry about me being the only one posting... We're all friends and take on what needs to be done..
I would worry more about the TB than the noise...It's a MUCH higher priority..
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, guess I'm researching how to change the TB then haha. I suppose I need to track down a timing light to in that case...and learn how to set the timing. How intensive would you say that is? Or is that one best left to a certified mechanic?
 

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I sent you a pm that has info on the TB replacement.
Chances are you can do it at home in your drive with standard metric tools and a floor jack.. The water pump replacement is suggested on the second TB. Normally done at 120k miles (second belt) so you might want to get that and replace it at the same time. It is in the same area as the TB. Look at rockauto.com for parts..
Dave
 

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Oh...BTW...
A neat tip...
To get the crank pulley bolt loose...you will need a I believe a 24mm socket and a breaker bar that reaches the ground... Remove the fuel pump relay in the fuse box under the hood..Start the car and run till it runs out of gas (fuel pump won't run). Put socket on the crank bolt and the breaker bar handle on the ground...Bump the starter (1/2sec) and the engine crank will turn and break loose the crank pulley bolt... Turn of the ignition.. This can be a bear if you don't know how to loosen this bolt.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So, after browsing the file Dan sent me(thanks again!) and a few Youtube videos I am cautiously optimistic that I can do the Timing Belt. Am I excited? No, not at all lol. But I think I can manage it without wrecking my engine. Questions though.

I know the kit with the water pump is recommended but what about the idler and tensionor's? And is there a specific brand that anyone recomends buying?

Just wondering about brand as I want the toughest one if ones known to be better.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm doubting my sanity at this point, I actually am starting to think that I have two similar noises. One which I described above, I'm doing all belts including timing within the next week, and another which I think actually is my front drivers tire rubbing since that one only happens over bumps as the car moves up and down on the suspension.


Plus, now my AC has cut out a handfull of times. Maybe my louder mechanical noise that changes depending on if I rev the engine is my AC Condenser?
 

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Hi...
Have you pulled that tire and looked for any signs of wear on the plastic inner "fender" or on the tire?

Are the tires oversize? They should be:
2006 Kia Spectra Front and Rear Tires P195/60R15 or P205/50R16 (SX or Spec5)

Check the strut pistons..look for leaking oil.

Ref: AC
You said "Plus, now my AC has cut out a handful of times. Maybe my louder mechanical noise that changes depending on if I rev the engine is my AC Condenser?"
I believe you meant "compressor" .. The electric clutch that when energized connects mechanically the compressor to the spinning pulley...Clutches do wear out and they can get quite noisy and usually will have a metallic rubbing/scraping.
You could loosen the tensioning pulley that tensions the belt that drives the AC compressor and temporarily remove the belt to confirm/deny compressor problems.

Last minute thought.... The Tensioning pulley also has a roller bearing and are common failure items...They will make lots of noise... They are very available at auto parts stores..loosening the pulley and removing the belt will confirm.
Dave
 
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