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55 Pontiac Starchief, 06 300C, 03 Sorento, and some ford diesels
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just bought a used 03. Front prop shaft missing. I see I could be running into several problems after I install the front driveshaft. Driveshaft has 4 mounting holes at transfer case. 6 mounting holes at the front. Ordered new shaft and it didn't come as I thought. Problem is the area with the 6 holes is thicker than the bolts they gave me and they aren't threaded.
My question is how do I install front driveshaft? It seems like it would come ready to bolt on. I gave the dealer my VIN when ordering it.
I hope I just don't have to remove a cap, but I don't want to pry on anything just yet. Thanks

 

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55 Pontiac Starchief, 06 300C, 03 Sorento, and some ford diesels
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Discussion Starter #3


I think they gave me the wrong bolts. These bolts are to thick and not long enough to even go through it. I have full time or TOD as its called. U joint at the transfer case end.
 

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08 2.5 CRDI Sorento Titan Auto
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U joint at the transfer case end.
Sorry, I'm a bit puzzled. The diagram I have for 2003 shows CV at transfer case and UJ at Front diff. (The difference between TOD and part time is slight difference in length of shaft assembly)
 

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55 Pontiac Starchief, 06 300C, 03 Sorento, and some ford diesels
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Discussion Starter #5
Well, it's a good thing one side has 6 holes and the other has 4 bolt holes or I would be 2nd guessing which side went where. Since it's not marked front and back.
I just tried to wiggle the shaft into place and I can't do it. It looks like I have to remove the cross bar for the transfer case support.
I've read on here that people just go out and remove the driveline like it was simple. Something like I use to do on the old cars when I replaced u-joints. Now unless someone knows better, I have to support the tranfer case and remove the cross bar to get that sucker in place. Not tonight.......looks like a Saturday job now. Sunday it's Go Seahawks!!!!! :eek:fftopic:
 

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08 2.5 CRDI Sorento Titan Auto
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It looks like I have to remove the cross bar for the transfer case support.
Never heard that to be required and it's looks to be a significant job. Has been said it was necessary to lever shaft to overcome a 'lip' on the flange (not sure which end). I can see from your pictures that the CV has a significant 'bump' on the end casing which would have to fit into the front diff flange .... will it??

Obviously (as per instructions at www.kiatechinfo.com which also has torque settings for bolts) front diff flange end should be fitted first. I am guessing that shaft must be manouvered over the cross member initially, front flange connected and then rear flange moved into place and secured.

Suggestion?? lift and well support front with wheels off ground - maybe just sufficient movement in suspension to allow movement of shaft into position on rear flange.

Here is another picture that goes with instructions showing attachment to front diff and what appear to be 6 bolts (although words only reference 4 bolts!!)

Also a further Kia picture of layout showing CV at transfer case end!

Unfortunately I have later model with (4 bolt) UJ at each end, so I cannot offer any direct experience.
 

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55 Pontiac Starchief, 06 300C, 03 Sorento, and some ford diesels
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Discussion Starter #8
QUOTE=gee6;456772]That's gotta hurt![/QUOTE]
I thought we won, then the other 30 seconds was played. :eek:
Front driveline is installed now at least. testing today. How would I test TOD 4x4? I thought it was an auto, then 4x4, then low. But just 2 knob locations Auto and Low. Maybe when someone pulled the driveline they also disabled the 4x4 somehow, is that possible?
 

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08 2.5 CRDI Sorento Titan Auto
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'Auto' and 'Low' are correct for TOD vehicles. 'Auto' means torque is delivered to front wheels when conditions (ECU/TCCU sensed) require it. Typically when rear wheel rotation exceeds front wheel rotation speed (ie rears are spinning) but other parameters also apply. Front/rear rotation speeds are measured at the transfer case by speed sensors on the front and rear output shafts. You will rarely need 'LOW' :) Just enable/disable it every so often by the switch to exercise the internals. [Transmission in neutral, foot on brake, engage switch - Flashy light, a small clunk and light goes solid]

Don't actively use 'Low' on anything but slippery ground except possibly just to roll forward/back a few feet WITHOUT turning.

[First time I used 'Low' in anger in 7 years was this weekend moving an old horse box on a muddy, sloping paddock.]

TOD can be disabled (on pre-facelift) by removing 'TCCS' fuse (#13) in driver's footwell fusebox.
 

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55 Pontiac Starchief, 06 300C, 03 Sorento, and some ford diesels
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
OK, this is kind of what I thought might happen. I put the new front driveline in ($800 us dll), and 4x4 low and probably Auto on the TOD don't work. I checked fuse 13 (TCCS)and it looked good, so I know I should test it, but can't, so I changed it out with another 20 amp fuse I know works. Still nothing happens in my driveway, that tells me its working.
My green lights for 4x4 and Low light up for the few seconds at initial key on position, but not after turning knob to Low. No sound, no difference in drive ratio. I am limited by how much more I can go without a simple solution. Off to the dealer I guess to get a diagnose of the problem. No codes or check engine light or anything unusual lights up on dash.

UPDATE: Just got back from dealer, actuator motor inside and Kia says New Transfer Case needed. I was told it was not the TCCM, like I thought it would be because the lights don't light up on dash. Obviously I am not buying a new Transfer Case. But I might find someone to rebuild it. Someday....
 

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Unfortunately there had to be a reason for removing the front shaft. If you have no odd noises from the transmission with it reinstalled then I would have to guess it was damaged (UJ/CV) and high likelihood of poor maintenance.

Before you write off the TC, might be worth making sure the harness connector(s) to the transfer case are clean and good (if you/dealer didn't already).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'll get under there again and check it out. I know when I dropped the TC crossbar support there was wires connected to it and they took a jolt when it dropped.
The dealer knew I wasn't going to buy a new transfer case, so I would think to get my money they would have fixed anything else I would have paid for. I'm checking rebuilders in the Seattle area. I guess these things are rebuildable.
 

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You can certainly source a replacement clutch pack, but not sure about other components. There is a least one supplier here who does refurbished transfer box for about £700+

I just saw a post on another forum that states Hi/Lo actuator is mounted on outside of transfer case and is "easily accesible", but I can't vouch for that.
 

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Yes the Hi - Lo actuator is mounted on the rear end of the case. You can't miss it, an electric motor feeding into a right angle drive, the drive is the actual actuator, the motor supplies the power. A fault could be the motor, the drive, the wiring, or the ECU.

I just had a look under my car a 2003 with part time 4WD, and my front prop shaft just has ordinary U joints at both ends. I presume that the TOD units use a CV joint for durability because the shaft would be always turning, unlike a part time unit? Still the front diff doesn't move with the suspension like in a solid axle so I wonder why they bothered.
 

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Does anyone know where I can buy just the CV end of the propshaft pictured at the start of this thread? I have a 2003 with the auto engage 4x4 and just need to replace the one end. I have disassembled it and it is completely dry and the rubber is melted. Thanks.
 
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