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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks,

My wifes '03 Rio wagon is acting up. It wasn't starting well recently, I got it started, and could hear the plugs/wires arcing out.

I replaced the plugs, wires, and valve cover gasket while I was at it, and it sees to start and run as it should for the most part now.

Problem is, twice now wince then, it's not started. Both times was while it was hot, and just been shut off a few minutes before. (Running into the store type stops.) Did it again this afternoon, and I happened to know a local wreckers had one of these, so I swapped out the coil pack in case it was breaking down when hot. No dice. I then pulled the battery cable for a couple minutes in case something needed reset. Still no luck. Finally I toggled the key on and off three or four times quickly, hit the starter, and it started right up.

Turned it back off, re-fired no problem. Another couple tries, and it wouldn't go. Toggled the key a couple times again, and away it went again.

Car is an automatic, timing belt is done every 60K kms, (was just done not long ago, car is at about 188,000kms now)

Any thoughts, suggestions, or further diagnostics I should be doing??
 

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2002 Kia Rio, 2011 Kia Sorento 2005 f 250 1996 geo metro 1992 f 150
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Fuel system problem or electrical issue with the ignition system. Any CEL codes? Fuel pump or filter ever changed? Please fill out your profile some more general location where you live. So you have new wires/plugs and coil pack you eliminated alot. Did your plugs have oil on them befor you changed the valve cover gasket mine did it was very brittle? clean the IAC valve if you can they stick. carb cleaner does a good job on it spray it up good and work the valve back and forth with a plastic stick or something non metalic while cleaning it to free it up. Good luck with it. Reguard's Ronjohn
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Still getting the site figured out.

No flashing dash lights or anything like that, just the typical lights that come on as part of the starting sequence.

Fuel pump as far as I know is original, filter I have to check records to see if or when it was done. The plugs were dry from oil this time, but last round they were wet, so for the $10 or so I think it was for a gasket, I just did it as a preventative measure.

IAC valve? not ringing any bells here.....

I also swapped the fuel pump fuse and relay just in case, I'd happened to grab some spares from the wreckers. Didn't seem to change anything though.

Most of my wrenching is on heavy equipment and diesel stuff, not a big fan of this small stuff!!

As far as location we're located in Peterborough, Ontario, about an hour northeast of Toronto.
 

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2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
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IAC=idle air control valve... Look for large rubber hose, disconnect it at aluminum "tube" (throttle body) look for carbon/oil buildup on throat and on butterfly valve/flap.. Clean with Carb/Choke cleaner, soft cotton rag, and plumber's flux brush. Push in on bottom of butterfly and clean around the contact surfaces.

It does sound like the fuel pressure is dropping after you shut off the car and by turning the ignition on and off numerous times you are building the rail pressure up again and the car starts.

As far as the car not having a CEL...Codes do still get set without the check engine light (CEL) coming on....so...do get the codes read.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What kind of code reader do these cars use?

The car is away until the weekend, I'll pick up some carb cleaner in the meantime and give the IAC a clean this weekend.

Now, in case it is an issue that I've already resolved, but is still affecting the computer, what is the proper reset procedure for these cars?
 

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2012 Kia Soul+, Kia Sportage SX FWD
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Some say disconnect battery for 20-30 minutes. I say pull the ECM fuse for 20 seconds. Saves your radio presets! Best way is use a reader to "clear" the codes. Walmart sells basic OBD2 readers for $49. Nicer ones for $99, and you can get adapters and software to use a laptop out on the web if you search.
 
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